H22A_CD5

iTrader: (3)

While I have not had a bad experience with this I know other S2000 guys have had issues with a "T" fitting hanging off the block with an additional oil pressure sender. The increased distance it sits off the block and the additional weight it has greatly increases the amount of vibration produced at the mounting point. There have been guys that have actually cracked the block (the hole specifically) where they are mounted, because of this additional vibration.

When I installed my oil pressure gauge (in my S2000) I removed the stock one all together. (In the S2000) It is only a switch for the dummy light on the dash and does not hook to the ECU in any way. I figured since it doesnt do anything anyway I just replaced it with an AEM one. Unplugging the stock does not give any check engine light (in the S2k). It would probably be a good idea before doing this to unplug it on the RDX and see if it gives a check engine light. If it does not then it probably just goes to the dummy light like the S2k does.

Now when it came to mounting. Rather than using just an adapter or sandwich plate, I used a thread adapter and a SS braided line to remotely mount the sensor. This ensured I wasnt adding weight to the mount hole so there would be no chance of cracking the mount hole. I attached it to the frame cross beam that is in front of the motor. I can provide pictures if you guys would like.

Just figured I would mention this as some food for thought, wouldnt want anyone to have an issue like this. Plus it eliminates the issues you may have getting the sandwich plate to fit/not leak.

wspy

Cool

DRR98

Thanks H22A,

Please share the pics. That may be helpful. I don't have a service manual yet, so I don't know where the RDX i/l sensor is.

Went under and took more pics yestreday. The RDX filter housing base has a window with a black steel close-out over it. Saddly it faces toward the block and not sure if you cleared out the bottom side if there is enough room for the 45 degree fittings for the kit above. Maybe.

I'll post up the pics later.

H22A_CD5

iTrader: (3)

The left side is the factory mount hole for the oil pressure "switch". Its on the exhaust side of cylinder 1.


This is the oil pressure switch on the RDX. Its in the same place as the S2000. So it is on the firewall side of the motor on the passenger side, next to cylinder 1 below the VTEC solenoid. (number 12 in the picture)

DRR98

What is the black stamped steel part for?

Why is the hole in the filter base housing there?

Dave Roebuck (op) where are you? Any progress.

Sorry for jacking your thread, come back.

DRR98

H22A, Thanks for sharing the pic. Ouch, busting that off would be a massive failure.

Its hard to tell, but does the an line return somewhere or is it a dead leg?

I see your oil filter below on the side of the block. Like our '98 Civic cpe and '00 Prelude (sold last month, sniff) - not the cleanest oil change.

The 90 degree mount on the RDX is clean plus you can prime the filter to the top.

I wonder if that black stamped steel part on the RDX base is to dampen vibration on the filter housing?

Even if a sandwhich adpt, 45 deg fittings and lines will mount ok, will the housing handle the extra load of the sandwhich adpt and 2 oil lines? And the filter?

Maybe better to relocate the filter to reduce the weight hanging off the base housing.

H22A_CD5

iTrader: (3)

If you look at the right hand side of the picture you can see the line terminates into the AEM oil pressure sender. I didn't pull the wire loom off that side of the line so it's a little more difficult to discern but you can see the yellowish connector. It does not loop back at all. Also this way would allow you to make a "T" still and keep the OEM switch too.

Installing this way was really simple. It just took a thread adapter to go form the block to the line and then the AEM sender was already SAE threaded; wire loom, zip tie, done.

I have had several buddies have issues with sandwich plates leaking.

DRR98

Yeah thats a dead leg.

How do you get the dirty oil out of that line?

Our Prelude timing belt tensioner had a captured oil system. At ~60k I replaced it and the oil inside it was well crapped up.

H22A_CD5

iTrader: (3)

Undo a couple zip ties, lift sensor higher than hole in block, gravity does the rest. I do this at every oil change.

DRR98

Put a straw in a tall glass of water and put your finger over the top of the straw and lift it out of the glass, no water will drain out of the straw, unless you remove your finger from the top of the straw.

Unless you vent the line, isn't that oil trapped. Gravity can't drain fluid from a dead leg without opening a vent on the highest point of the line.

A vent valve would allow the air that would be trapped during install to be vented out after start-up too. Then the line gets filled (fully) with oil. After that put a cap on the vent valve to prevent accidental oil release.

I wonder if any S2K people run a return line on a set-up like yours?

No dead leg is best.

Ventable/drainable dead leg is 2nd best.

H22A_CD5

iTrader: (3)

The line is a large enough diameter that the surface tension of the oil breaks when you hold it up. Air travels from the block up the line allowing the oil to drain.

Even still, the line holds 2 maybe 3 ounces of oil. If it were to never drain out it would take an extremely long time to get deposits enough that it would give an incorrect reading. And it is easy enough to install and remove that it wouldnt be a big deal to remove it every/every other oil change or so to ensure it gets cleaned out.

JCRDX11

any update regarding installing the gauges?
Have you thought about the PLX DM-200?

I just want to monitor more toward the Air/Fuel. (Want to know if I am running to lean or rich.

DRR98

Happy New Year

In this one the air/fuel metrics choices are

boost
im press
in temp
barometer
maf rate
fuel press
fuel trim(sb1)
" " (sb2)
" " (lb1)
" " (lb2)

Its hooked up via the wifi only to my iphone. When I add the oil sensors they will hook into the imfd pigtail.

You can add any gauge (see their website), and like 32 of them daisey chained to the imfd.

I moved the obd plug location to inside the dash and tucked the wire, terminates inside the center console.
There is a switch for power on the end of the module.

I have a few configurations saved.

air intake temp
boost
timing advance
engine coolant temp
rpm


timing advance
boost air intake temp
intake manifold pressure
calculated engine load

ECT
WHP
Torque
Boost
Fuel Pressure

The gauges are ~ 2" so only one at a time and then
you toggle to any of the other four in each config setup.

Not the perfect gauge solution, but a solution.

So much better than what the factory issued.

Taking my time on the oil side. Still thinking.

Drill the filter mount housing for access to a pancake adpt?

The 90 deg mount is a concern. More thinking...

dr427

It would be cool if there was someone making these type of gauges for the Acura's.

P3 Cars makes integrated gauges for vents. http://www.p3cars.com