droebuck

Anyone install any aftermarket guages to the RDX? I am looking at the PLX DM-100 which will read all your ECU info through the odb2 connection, a oil pressure guage and a water temp guage to be mounted on the a-pillar. Anyone done anything like this? Would love to hear how the install went and see pics if possible.

thanks

droebuck

also, anyone know when you can actually post pics in a thread?

wspy

Not sure but try using a Photobucket.com account (free) to link/host pics here.


I havent seen anyone mount gauges on the A pillar, only on the steering column. It would be neat if you could get/find a two gauge molded A pillar pod for the RDX....good luck.

droebuck

Yeah, I actually think a 2-guage pillar pod would look best. I wonder though, the pillar has air-bags in it correct? Id'e hate to get in an accident and have guages smashed in my face (lol). But they just look so much neater and cleaner mounted on the pillar vs. the dash.

I guess one of the neat features of the plx dm-100 is that the guage (digital) can actually connect to a few dozen sensors to read so in reality you really only need that guage. I just think at least 2 is needed for a pillar pod, and of course it looks cooler.

felixthekat

Yea there are airbags in the pillars. I, too, would prefer an airbag to the face than gauges leaving indentations on my foreheads.

droebuck

Well screw it, im adding guages. I gought a universal 2 guage pod that fits perfecly on the a-pillar. I have to paint it first (its black) to match my "taupe" (this is a tough color to match, its almost grey) and I'll mount it with industrial 2 sided tape (so I dont end up drilling into an airbag). I'm still waiting for the guages. I got a water temp and air pressure. They (and the pod) are from GlowShift. The guages are digital, lens is tited and you can change the color of the guage background and needle to 7 different colors. They have a cool adapter for the oil pressure guage, you screw it on where the oil filter goes then attach the filter to the adapter. The adapter has 3 ports on it, for oil pressure, temp and something else (so you could 3 guages from this adapter, or one guage that can take multiple readings). Saves you from having to put a sensor in your oil pan. The water pressure sensor is cool too, you cut out about an 2 inches of your upper radiator hose, stick the adapter getween them, then clamp the hoses onto the adapter. The sensor then screws into the adapter. Should be easy to run all the wiring through a drivers side firewall, come up in the trim in front of the door all the way to the pillar. Probably have a few inches of wire visable because like I said, no drilling in that air bag carrying A-pillar for me.

I figure (not including the painting) should take about 2 hours. Total cost for everything, including the paint, about $140. If you order anything from GlowShift, when you check out put June11 in the discount code and you get 10% off, and free shipping.

I'll try and post pics when done (probably next weekend) and if I still cant post in a thread ill put them in my garage.

wrestrepo

Gauges

droebuck

OK I started installing my guages. First, takes longer than I thought, I started tonight and in about 2 hours all I got done was running 4 wires through the firewall (2 from battery to each guage, 2 that will go on each sensor (oil pressure, water hose) that goes to the guage), ran 2 wires from guage down and connected to empty spot on fuse box (used a fuse jump) and thats about it for now. Gotta still run the ground wire then finish connecting the pillar post back, then install and hook up the sensors (doesn't everything take longer than you thought).

Couple of lessons learned here. First, there is no airbag behind the a-pillar. You can start to see it at the top of the pillar but it looks like it runs along the headliner at the top of the window. Second, there is a hole in the firewall right behind the parking brake, run everything through here that goes into the engine compartment. And finally, once you have the a-pillar trim off you can run wiring from the bottom of it straight down behind the fuse box (which is nice because it will meet right near the firewall hole). You will need a coathanger to fish all the wiring through both the firewall and the hole at the bottom of the a-pillar.

Since I had to use a universal pod, it does not fit exactly flush. Once I finish up the wiring (I drilled 2 holes in the A pillar trim under where the pod is mounted to hide all the wires, so nothing will be visable) I am going to put a little bit of foam in the small space between the pod and the a pillar trim to make it look a little neater.

When taking that A-pillar trim off you have to really work it. It is held in place with 2 plastic clips (look like a christmas tree--one end slips into a slot the other presses through a hole) but the top clip is a large metal one with rubber that slips into the hole, so it took a little muscle and work to get it out.

Of course I have to take it back off (it started getting dark and I didnt want to drive to work with my a-pillar off and wiring everywhere), but I did take a few pics so you can get an idea what it will look like when done. The pics are in my album and someone nice like WSPY or Mr. Marco could please cut and then paste them in this post it would be greatly appreciated.

Tomorrow when I have it off again I'll take a few pics or how it looks under the trip. Tried to get a pic of the firewall but couldn't get my big ass camera under there.

droebuck

meant to say ill take pics tomorrow of behind the a-pillar trim and what those clips look like.

droebuck

sorry, im a little dyslexic with the guages, gauges. The damn thing with the needle that gives a reading

wspy

https://acurazine.com/forums/members/droebuck-299795-albums-guage-install-8079/

Steady that camera hand

droebuck

I know it, we have a nice Cannon T2i camera, but on night shots it seems like it takes forever for the shutter to close/open. Hard to hold it steady that long with a drink in your hand

wspy

JCRDX11

Sweet pictures - I was thinking about having a custom steering column gauge holder for 2.

something like this -
http://www.mellontuning.com/images/evodualpod.jpg

http://www.jscspeed.com/images/catal...thumb_full.jpg

droebuck

Those look cool. Just don't really know how much of a steering column we have-our column is kindof square, I'de make sure it fits before buying.

superfly5203

I bought one of those OBD2 readers that has built in blue tooth, and downloaded an app for my phone that lets me have lots of digital gauges. It is pretty damn cool. android app is called torque and XITECH ELM327 was the reader. It has tons of stuff, i like it, oh and the app has a free part and another that you can pay for that has even more stuff.

wrestrepo

I would think that mounting something on the column will block your view of the tach and speedo. What can be more important than those two?

dcmodels

I do not quite understand how that works - the oil filter screws up into a housing, that only has room for the filter. Or does the adapter go between the filter housing and the engine block? a picture would be helpfult.


That works if the thermostat is on the top of the engine, at the top radiator hose connection. But on the RDX, the thermostat is at the BOTTOM of the engine, where the BOTTOM HOSE connects to the block. So you need to put your temp sensor in the bottom, not the top, radiator hose.

Otherwise, the sensor is going to be reading the cooled water returning back to the engine through the top radiator hose.

In the bottom hose, the sensor will be reading the water temp as it exits the engine through the thermostat. Which means it will only start to read the engine water temp after the thermostat opens.

I am planning to add a water temp gauge to my RDX, and that is where I will be putting the sensor - in the bottom radiator hose.

Mr Marco

RDXturbo07

looks nice! were did u get the set from?

Mr Marco

^^Forgot to say those pics are droebuck's from his album.

DRR98

Glad to see your progress. I too am working on real gauges for our '11 RDX. I'm going with the REV app for iphone. Upside is easy interface- plug the transmitter into the obd port. A few of the gauges it has -boost, intake air temp, coolant temp, as well as a 0-60 timer and a code scanner.

Downside is I still need oil pressure & temp gauges.
But I agree both are needed.

I was looking at replacing the oil return elbow (#8 in diag below) with a s/s cross and putting both oil sensors in there. A pancake sensor may be eaiser.

But I do not know if REV supports any oil sensors, only what is in the ECU.

Oil gauges TBD..


2011 Acura RDX Turbocharger, 5DR RDX KA5AT E__0410 Diagram

wspy

Please note that the oil return from A turbo is not pressurized and will not give you the oil pressure figure that you need to monitor! Oil temp may be monitored at that point but is not optimal though.
Best bet for the pressure is either the oil filter adapter mentioned earlier or a 't' fitting where the factory oil pressure sensor is

DRR98

wspy Thank you.

No pressure after the turbo bearing.

Same thing my friend at work said.

So, I hope the pancake oil sensors are supported by Rev.

Anyone use Rev?

I have not bought my setup yet. It is about $250 and I want to be sure this is a good way to go before I buy, not after.

DRR98

Looks interesting but I'm having trouble finding the oil sensor. Dave can you post a link for it?

Also how much did you pay?

Doug

DRR98

Kiwi Wifi + iMFD
$199.99

Kiwi Wifi + iMFD combines the best of both worlds into one product. Since the OBDII port does not offer all the sensors you may want to monitor, the added iMFD sensor support allows you to add up to 32 additional dedicated sensor modules from the PLX product line. This includes wideband Air/Fuel Ratio, Exhaust Gas Temperature, Fluid Temperatures and much more. If you're already an owner of the standard Kiwi Wifi, we offer a $100 upgrade option if you later decide you need iMFD sensor support. The Kiwi Wifi + iMFD is 100% backwards compatible with Kiwi Wifi.
The added benefit of Kiwi Wifi + iMFD is that with every additional iMFD sensor module you add, your performance does not degrade. For example, if you're monitoring only 1 sensor from the OBDII port and your refresh rate is 5Hz, by monitoring 2 sensors, your refresh drops to 2.5Hz and so on. By adding 1 or 32 iMFD sensors, your refresh rate is always kept constant at 10Hz. This results in higher performance monitoring for even the most demanding applications.


PLX Display Modules are also compatible with the PLX iMFD serial stream. If you require additional dedicated displays be sure to check out our Multi-Gauges and Single Gauges.

Technical SpecificationsSSID: PLXDevices IP: 192.168.0.10 Subnet: 255.255.255.0 Port: 35000Range: 50 ft (Line of sight)Antenna: InternalPower Consumption: 0.75 Watts (With Power Switch)Wifi Standard: 802.11a/b/gOperating Temperature: -15 to 100 Deg CelsiusPlastic: Automotive GradePhysical Dimensions: 2.75 x 1.25 x 1.2 inchesAdditional Sensor Support: PLX iMFD Sensor Module Support

Looks like I need the above to start = $200. Plus the oil pressure module and sensor = $130, and the oil temp module and sensor = $110. Plus a glowshift sandwhich adapter = $30. Total $470

I'll be using my phone as the only gauge display. Wish I had an input for the dash lcd display that would allow me to display my phone screen via bluetooth for bigger gauges.

Is this the best solution for much needed proper gauges? (ha, guages if your lisdexic)

737 Jock

I looked at the oil filter adapters and install video on Glow Shift. The adapter is a simple sandwich design that goes between the filter and the mounting plate. The taps for temp and pressure come off the sides of the adapter and require clearance all around it.

I would agree that there is no way the oil filter adapter can be put on a RDX with the metal shroud around the fitting. Glow Shift makes Acura specific adapters, but only for the Integra, RSX and TSX. The OP hasn't posted, but I don't see how he could have used this adapter.

Flow described above is backwards. The thermostat location makes for misunderstanding.

All common engines pump water up through the block and the cylinder head, where it exits to return to the pump or is thermostatically directed to the top of the radiator. Entering the top of the radiator, it gravity flows down through the radiator and is returned through the lower hose back to the pump.

The RDX uses the same system, except that pumped water exits additional cylinder head ports to the turbo housing and exhaust manifold for cooling. That water then returns to the common cylinder head water outlet, where it is routed back to the pump. Water flows continuously in this circuit, regardless of thermostat position. (The heater core takes hot turbo return water right off the water outlet as well. The hot turbo is why the RDX makes cabin heat so fast.)

Note that the water outlet has 2 exit hoses; one straight to the pump and one to the top of the radiator. Neither outlet hose has a thermostat. The thermostat is located in the lower radiator return hose to the pump.

When the thermostat is closed, no water can exit the water outlet and divert through the upper radiator hose because it's radiator exit is blocked by the thermostat in the lower return hose. When the thermostat opens, water can now down-flow through the radiator.

In summary, the upper hose carries hot water to the radiator -- this is the hose to locate a water temp sensor in. The lower hose allows down-flow through the radiator when it's thermostat opens.

DRR98

[quote=737 Jock;13211590]"I looked at the oil filter adapters and install video on Glow Shift. The adapter is a simple sandwich design that goes between the filter and the mounting plate. The taps for temp and pressure come off the sides of the adapter and require clearance all around it.

I would agree that there is no way the oil filter adapter can be put on a RDX with the metal shroud around the fitting. Glow Shift makes Acura specific adapters, but only for the Integra, RSX and TSX. The OP hasn't posted, but I don't see how he could have used this adapter."

So that must be why I could not find the RDX adapter. Can this be overcome? Maybe?
I'm thinking of running s/s lines off of two 90 deg. s/s fittings off the adapters ports. I need to get back under to see if there would be a clearence problem. I've only done one oil change, so I don't remember.

If no clearence problem, each line could run down under the pan to 2 remote tees where both sensors (temp & press) mount.

Each tee runs - inlet, sensor, outlets combine into a single tee into more s/s tubing thru a remote oil cooler, and a s/s tubing return line.


Also need to figure out if they have a proper sized sandwhich adapter to fit the RDX.

That is what I'm thinking.

DRR98

Adapter, 2 ports, looks more beefy.

Also forgot to add some rubber for flex to the s/s lines to the cooler (above Post).

http://www.amazon.com/Canton-Racing-...285611&sr=1-16

DRR98

http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMOC...pd_sbs_auto_13

737 Jock

That's a good idea, but the flange around the RDX oil filter is likely too tight for any elbow fittings -- there is only about 5 mm clearance. It doesn't look like the Canton or Mishimoto adapters will work either.

It might be possible to cut the flange away, or the oil filter mount from the TSX might bolt up to the RDX engine. Needs some research.

Otherwise, perhaps somebody makes an adapter with an extension to get the press/temp taps below the flange. (Puts the oil filter closer to the road though.)

DRR98

I looked and took pics but still need to measure and see if any of the many sandwhich adapters will fit inside the filter housing without any fittings installed.

After getting one is sized to fit into the housing, I'll test fit - to can see where the ports will line up when the adpt is mounted and properly tightened.

That will index where the holes need to be drilled into the filter housing for the fittings to pass thru. Next I'll remove the adpt, seal oil port, and drill 2 holes in the housing. Test fit again for proper housing hole to sandwhich port alignment, and then complete the inst.

A temp sensor on the outlet from the sandwhich adpt and another after the oil cooler would be overkill right? Who needs to see how effective the oil cooler is.

I noticed 4 different heat exchangers while under there.

Radiator, condensor, trans cooler, power steering cooler?


Rad and cond are obvious.

2 pass o/d green unfinned tubing - I'm guessing p/s.

Leaves a black 4 pass (I think?) rubber lines - Who dat?

Kaze66218

Really going thru with this... lol, Wish I was selling you parts.

2f2f

DRR98

^ If your post refers to me...not sure?

First, I'd like to say thanks for your unconstrutive criticism.

Ha, I wish I was selling you manners as well as communication skills.

I hoped by posting here that I was looking to add gauges to our new RDX I might get helpful feed back from others who have been there and done that.

Not so much. RDX has been out ~ 6 yrs and I can't find much here about adding gauges.

With the limited info I saw the PLX+imfd as an easy way to go and still be able to add on what is not supported by the obdII.

Now that I'm $230 into it, yes I'm going forward.

First I need to confirm dimensions for the adpt o/d and the filter base i/d.

If not compatible I will get an adpt made to replace the filter base and remote the filter.

~ Costs...

$230 - transmitter/interface (plx)
$130 - pressure module and sensor
$110 - temp module w/2 sensors
$200 - cooler, sandwhich adpt, lines, fittings

So yes I'm really going through with this.

I think that monitoring oil temps and pressure is the best place to start modding this motor.

Kaze66218

Not unconstructively critical, if I really was id say something harsh. Look, most the time messing with engines the parts you buy, can't be returned and whomever sells them to you will soak up the money from you. Telling you you need this, Ill sell you this. I Just think someone put a bug in your ear, to get you interested, so you'll drop tons of cash into this.

If I sold you parts, I'd make sure you wouldn't destroy your investment, I don't advocate letting someone goof ball destroy your car. That's what I mean by what I said. Just like the tt issue.

Want construction,
The ecu pinout is the place I'd start. if hard wiring, OBD2 port is pro'lly gonna run you more money. If the OBD2 wifi is cheap it will still have wireless interference but not that you need precise measurements.... Why add sensors if the are already there. Talk 2 someone with a shop/service manual, should have a digital signal you can patch to for water temp. The oil, IMNSHO, on the other hand is asking for trouble. Theres a digital signal for wideband O2, rpm, intake pressure/ temp, among other things.

Honestly, that oil filter shouldn't be cast into the short block, but if it is dremel or grind it down/off so you can put a relocation block on. Finé

When I see someone looking into

Kaze66218

**When I see someone looking into this stuff sends up a red flag, that someones got you spending money on something that is not performance oriented. for now Bolt ons are safe. Buy wheels, tires, Exhaust, DP, Intake, Thats where I'd throw money first. 2 cents

windowlickingood

^ he prolly has a bunch of " friends " that tell him that he needs all this in a stock car.. i mean shit, you could of bought a bluetooth obd2 adapter and the tourqe app and it would tell you all you want to know. but, i guess that people like to waste money with out proper research. People need to start talking to actual engine tuners that actually deal with all of these products on a day to day basis and stop reading the fluffed up info you get off a manufatures website. btw, i sure there has to be a extention plate you can get that will fit inside the oil filter spot so that the adapter plate will fit. they tend to be universal so looking for one that has the same thread and diameter is key

Kaze66218

I like DDR, he was a prelude guy. I lost a prelude to a tuner, blah blah blah. So now I read about what's not working and learned from it.

windowlickingood

that would be a 1 out of 1000 chance that you had a noob tuner. but still wise to get multiple opinoins. not to mention getting a tune is pretty risky on both parties. due to wear parts.

DRR98

Where do I start?

Our new RDX came with brand new wheels, tires, intake, and exhaust. They all perform just fine. Gauges? Not so much.

But you complain about me wasting money on parts for the oil system?

Sounds like you both are fine with having no oil temp or pressure gauges in your modded RDXs'. I get that. Your choice.

Our 2000 Prelude had only the idiot light to rely on for oil system monitoring. Zero protection with an idiot light. The light comes on only after the oil pressures already dropped.

Did you add any gauges to your boosted Prelude? Any? At all?

If the oil pressure idiot light comes on some damage is already done. I never worried too much about it because our Prelude did not have a turbo like yours.

You ever wonder why some cars come stock with oil temp and pressure gauges?

Fluff? Useless?

"Prolly a bunch of friends told them?"

Real gauges with numbers, numbers that you can read, not just some bars or un-indexed needles swinging.

Why do you feel the need to bash me for wanting to have oil temp and pressure gauges before anything else?

Let me help you understand my view, we live at the base of some really big mountains that we love to drive in with passes ~ 7, 8, 9k ft.

One of our cars has real gauges, one is an oil temp gauge.

When driving this car in the mountains I can see my oil temp climb to ~ 350 degrees, and I wish I had an oil cooler. I don't. This makes me slow down for some reason. I'm funny that way.

So yeah, no one told me any of this.

I'm looking for a way to add gauges before any other mods.

Funny that way too.

And I'm spending $600 to add them along with an oil cooler.

We all get to choose our own way.

And if you want to throw out what you think are solutions, it helps if you read and understand the details.

Like the fact that the obdII reader/transmitter sends all the on board info to my iphone. Included in this info is coolant temp which you mention getting the service manual to get the pin-out for above.

And all the other on board metrics are there as well. Boost check. Intake air temp check. Exhaust check gas temp. All the obdII info, check.

Read a little.

So thanks for bashing me and laughing at me and trying to pretend you're helping.

How do you like me now?