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DIY: Turbo VGT Actuator Rod End Replacement (P2263, actuator arm play, exhaust buzz)
Hi RDXers,
I replaced my worn turbo actuator rod end to fix my P2263 code diagnostic trouble fault code, Check Exhaust, Check SH-AWD warnings and exhaust buzzing sound (when off-throttle at high RPM, sounds like an exhaust leak). The car would run in 2WD mode when the Check-SH-AWD warning is on. The turbo would lag more. The actuator arm had play (you can check for this by wiggling the actuator arm up and down to see if it's loose). Re-posting here for easy access since the other post may get buried.
Tools needed:
Coin, for IC cover
10mm socket wrench, for hose bracket
2x 10mm wrenches (1x ratcheting, for heat shield), for actuator adjustment nuts
Small needle nose vice-grips and small narrow flat-head screwdriver, for c-clip
Floss, for tethering
Instructions:
Once engine is cool, remove IC cover and hose bracket.
Remove heat shield (#10) using a 10mm ratcheting wrench for the 3x bolts.
Use a flat-head screwdriver to rotate the c-clip, then use vice-grips to slightly loosen the clip so you have room to tether before removing it completely.
Tether the actuator rod end then loosen the nuts (nuts are reverse thread so when looking down you will need to turn it clockwise to loosen. Back the bottom bolt (counter-clockwise) off a bit then loosen the top bolt (clockwise) just enough as needed to disconnect the rod end.
It helps to tether the actuator arm to hold it up. While pulling up on the arm with the tether, push in on the spring where it meets the turbo and pull the arm end towards the passenger side to allow the rod end to slide on/off between the gap.
Swap the nut to the new part and installation is reverse of removal. Make sure the adjustment nuts are tight but be careful to not strip/round them (I almost did as I was using the vice-grips + wrench since I did not have two 10mm wrenches).
Drive the car and check for the exhaust buzzing sound (try driving by a wall on the right with the windows down, in 2nd gear, off-throttle at 5k RPM and letting the RPMs drop). Start with the nuts higher up where the buzz is loud, then adjust the nuts down until the buzz goes away. A slight buzz may still be present.
Clear any ECU codes that may be present.
Last edited by InfamousJamous; Nov 7, 2019 at 06:16 PM.
The stock heat shield in step 2 has one bolt that mounts to the stock downpipe. Aftermarket downpipes like the RV6 are missing this mount so left the shield off, wrapped the dp and added the blanket to keep things cooler. Also added
on to most of the tubes back there, like A/C and brake lines. Without these I noticed that the A/C wouldn't blow cold.
Also, for the actuator rod end, getting it on and off is the hardest part since the clearance is tight. It may help to stick a wrench in there to pry against the arm.
Hi, thank you for your post. If you still have this part, how can I get hold of one? Otherwise, do you have the dimensions for the part so that I can make one myself? Thanks.
Yes available, I tried to reply to your PM but your inbox was full. I can have it shipped. You can also find it on eBay (search: rdx vgt actuator) if it still available.
Yes available, I tried to reply to your PM but your inbox was full. I can have it shipped. You can also find it on eBay (search: rdx vgt actuator) if it still available.
Hi, I saw the part at eBay, but it is going to take 10-12 business days of shipping. I was wondering whether I can get it earlier if I get it from you. Thanks.
hi
I'm having issues still after replacing Lever Eyelet.... do you have the Lever or know where to get it. Last yr the p2263 came on but went away. After I replaced it last week I can't go over 40miles with it triggering. Please help thanks.
