I have a 2007 RDX with 130+k miles, and I m looking to replace the front/rear brake pads and rotors. I can't find a DIY for the RDX pads and rotor replacements. I am planning to pick up some Duralast Cmax pads. Hopefully, there will be a lot less brake dust than the EBC Greenstuff that I had on previously. I changed the pads and rotors on my Celica before, so I have some experience.

Anyone got the torque spec info? Your experience/ pointers/ things to watch out for will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Matt

 

Going to borrow your post for a question....

1. For OP: is this your first time replacing them? My 07 is at 51,000 KM and the guy says I need to replace my rear pads + rotors

2. For anyone: is it necessary to replace rotors with the pads?

 

Torque settings and rotor wear limits are in this post: DIY - Brake Caliper Painting

 

737 Jock, your link is broken.

 

This should work. I just checked it. (Anyway, it's a sticky in the DIYs.)


DIY -- Brake Caliper Painting

 

Jock:
The link still doesn't work for me but I read the DIY on painting calipers. Cool. BTW, do you know if the brake pad shims need to be re-used on new brake pad installations? I put in new pads without the factory shims that came with the factory brakes. I have a 2008 RDX 1.8L.

 

Did the new pads come with shims? Normally shims are glued or clipped tightly to the pad backing and do not get reused. New shims should be provided. You aren't referring to the anti-rattle clips by any chance are you?

(what's a 1.8L? )

 

Jock:
No shims with the new pads. The service manual shows the shims provided with original equipment at this post: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/ No not the anti rattle clips either. The shims from the original Honda brakes pads are metal and separate easily from the original brake pads as seen in the above referenced link. I did not re-install the original shims as I was not sure about using them with new pads. Seemed redundant to me. BTW, I am a former 757/767 Jock from UAL retired now. 1.8L is the installed engine size, thought that might help info-wise. BTW, I posted a thread called Brake Threads with links to some posts here that I found helpful.

 

Nice link, thanks.

Since the manual show them (4ea, 2 i/b, 2 o/b) I would have transfered them to the new pads.

But it sounds like the brakes are still functional without them, right?

Put them back on now, or save them and forget to put them on at next pad change?

Hmm?

 

DRR98:

Yep, that sounds like sound advice. You are right, I will probably forget them or lose them by the time the next brake pad change is due, especially at my age. I couldn't get any guidance from NAPA or the local shop on this so I just left them off. The vehicle drives and stops fine so far with several hundred miles on the brake pads so far. Nothing unusual.

 

BTW DRR98, I didn't have access to a manual at the time.

Does anyone here use torque sticks to set the torque on lug nuts? I just got a new impact torque wrench but it does not have an adjustable torque setting. I am thinking of taking it back and finding one that does.

 

If they are OEM pads they probably should have come with new shims, or the old shims should have been re-used. That is, unless the newer OEM pads have been redesigned with built-in anti-squeal sufaces. I do not use OEM pads so I don't know what they look like anymore.

If they are aftermarket pads they likely have a built-in shim or glued-on anti-squeal surface, so the OEM shims are not needed. I use EBC pads and the anti-squeal (shims) are glued-on -- the black shim in the pic below.

That's a rare RDX

 

reyo,

Get another opinion.

I don't know anything about your car, other than its not an RDX.

But it would be unusual if the rear pads were worn out that early on most cars.

Rotors can be resurfaced at that first pad change, but to have to replace them would be unusual.

Jock,
Nice work on the rotor hats.
How did you do it?

 

737Jock said "That's a rare RDX." You're right! I have a 2.3L engine in my RDX, a 1.8L in my Civic(I think)! I got them confused! Thanks for pointing that out. Someone else mentioned that the original brake pad shims were probably for noise control. I don't have any noise without the shims and good braking so I will leave them off for now. Nice brakes btw. I went with the cheaper NAPA Ultra Premium ceramic pads.

 

Buff rust off with a 3M pad and apply a thin coat of brake grease or wax to the hat/wheel mating surfaces. (Make sure not to get grease on the lug bolts of course.) Keeps the wheel and rotor corrosion free.