RDX Battery drain - all known issues
#1
RDX Battery drain - all known issues
I'd like to create a comprehensive thread on all known RDX battery issues because there are a number of them I have encountered. Here is what I know to be possible causes:
1) HFL - the handsfree Bluetooth module drains the battery and is the most common cause. Unplug or replace HFL.
2) AC clutch - the relay can get stuck "on" and the clutch never disengages and drains the battery. Replace relay.
3) Stereo Amplifier - it's down there with the HFL under the center console and it needs to be replaced. It has it's own fuse so you can test it for battery draw, but on my car it was intermittent.
4) Door lock actuator - when you press the door lock/unlock, one door lock can get stuck locking (or unlocking) and drain the battery. I have not had this myself but I have heard that you'll know it by the door not unlocking or locking when it should and/or the alarm doesn't arm on the double press of the remote. Don't forget about the back hatch door.
On #3 above (Amplifier), I would really love to read the TSB on this. The number is 07-064 but I cannot find the actual TSB anywhere. I'd love to see what it says as I believe this is my problem.
So many parasitic draws in one car - ugh. Anything else you guys have seen?
1) HFL - the handsfree Bluetooth module drains the battery and is the most common cause. Unplug or replace HFL.
2) AC clutch - the relay can get stuck "on" and the clutch never disengages and drains the battery. Replace relay.
3) Stereo Amplifier - it's down there with the HFL under the center console and it needs to be replaced. It has it's own fuse so you can test it for battery draw, but on my car it was intermittent.
4) Door lock actuator - when you press the door lock/unlock, one door lock can get stuck locking (or unlocking) and drain the battery. I have not had this myself but I have heard that you'll know it by the door not unlocking or locking when it should and/or the alarm doesn't arm on the double press of the remote. Don't forget about the back hatch door.
On #3 above (Amplifier), I would really love to read the TSB on this. The number is 07-064 but I cannot find the actual TSB anywhere. I'd love to see what it says as I believe this is my problem.
So many parasitic draws in one car - ugh. Anything else you guys have seen?
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Altair (04-25-2019)
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JCash23 (03-08-2022)
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TSB 07-064 - Battery Discharges for No Apparent Reason
Applies To: 2007 RDX w/Technology Package - From VIN 5J8TB185.7A000001 thru 5J8TB185.7A013757
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B07-064.PDF
http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B07-064.PDF
Applies To: 2007 RDX w/Technology Package - From VIN 5J8TB185.7A000001 thru 5J8TB185.7A013757
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B07-064.PDF
http://techinfo.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B07-064.PDF
#6
TSB 07-064 - Battery Discharges for No Apparent Reason
Applies To: 2007 RDX w/Technology Package - From VIN 5J8TB185.7A000001 thru 5J8TB185.7A013757
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B07-064.PDF
LinkDeny
Applies To: 2007 RDX w/Technology Package - From VIN 5J8TB185.7A000001 thru 5J8TB185.7A013757
http://www.urvi.net/forumfiles/SB/B07-064.PDF
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Trending Topics
#8
2007 RDX started having battery drain
I replaced the battery and alternator but it still kept draining every 2 days of sitting outside. Took it to the dealer today and they disconnected the HFL unit and now everything is fine again.
Hope this help someone before you go through what I did and spend unnecessary money.
Hope this help someone before you go through what I did and spend unnecessary money.
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JCash23 (08-30-2022)
#10
Here are possible solutions to bad HFL:
Install a different module, aftermarket, either in the glove box or console.
Bake it in the oven, somebody else on this site has the details regarding temperature, duration why and how long it might work afterwards, maybe a different model though.
Buy another new or used.
Install a different module, aftermarket, either in the glove box or console.
Bake it in the oven, somebody else on this site has the details regarding temperature, duration why and how long it might work afterwards, maybe a different model though.
Buy another new or used.
#11
bake only works so long...
bake 380-400f for 8-10min (make sure to remove the plastic case!) and DO NOT move it while hot or you might drop some chips. "Fixed" the HFL board twice but only lasted 6 months. took it out couple years ago as I was done with drained battery and flaky BT anyway... 07 MDX - what year is yours ?
#16
Thanks! that's good at least, dealer wants $527 just for the part. By any chance do you know if the one for 07 RDX can be baked like the one for TL? If I can get it out, I was thinking about giving that a try first
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Melorr (04-18-2020)
#18
2018 rdx adv fwd
I noticed my car taking a little longer to start. Tested OEM battery and there was a dead cell. I drive 90 miles to work round trip but use remote start regularly and get in before it cuts off after the 10 minutes, allowing enough time to charge. I don’t do anything out of the ordinary (I would think) to cause this.
Luckily I was covered under warranty for it (46k miles of the 50k mile new car warranty). Reading this thread and a few others, apparently there’s ongoing issues with batteries in Acura- hopefully mine will last.
Luckily I was covered under warranty for it (46k miles of the 50k mile new car warranty). Reading this thread and a few others, apparently there’s ongoing issues with batteries in Acura- hopefully mine will last.
#19
CSmoney28
Acura stock batteries are trash and so is the charging system. I change my battery every thirty thousand miles. What a joke the parasitic draw is on these vehicles.
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johnnyboyy012 (09-12-2020)
#21
I fixed mine with this It's a little annoying, but a cheap fix.
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JCash23 (08-06-2022)
#23
Stumped..
Okay, so since may of this year I have replaced or removed:
alternator (twice)
battery
tensioner pulley
HFL disconnected.
May: replaced battery
may: replaced alternator & tensioner pulley
still having issues so I pulled the HFL. Tan fine for a few months.
first time replacing alternator and tensioner, car ran for a month or two before crapping out again.
October:
Replaced the alternator again a couple weeks ago after I was getting warnings that my battery was being overcharged and every light imaginable came on. Ran for about two weeks or so.
Dec:
now that I replaced the alternator again a few weeks ago, I went to start my car and the battery was dead.
At this point I just want it to run well enough to trade it in. What could be causing it?
alternator (twice)
battery
tensioner pulley
HFL disconnected.
May: replaced battery
may: replaced alternator & tensioner pulley
still having issues so I pulled the HFL. Tan fine for a few months.
first time replacing alternator and tensioner, car ran for a month or two before crapping out again.
October:
Replaced the alternator again a couple weeks ago after I was getting warnings that my battery was being overcharged and every light imaginable came on. Ran for about two weeks or so.
Dec:
now that I replaced the alternator again a few weeks ago, I went to start my car and the battery was dead.
At this point I just want it to run well enough to trade it in. What could be causing it?
#26
Instructor
Small Claims Against Acura Bluetooth
Ironically I received a letter in the mail yesterday about a Small Claims against Acura that is a result of the Bluetooth problem and battery draining. My 2007 RDX experienced the battery drain too.
#27
Is this a load of crap and should I push for a better solution? Is there truly a better solution? Better battery?
#28
Instructor
Just got this as well. I have a 2019 RDX that just returned from the shop because it died on me twice in the last month. Replaced battery. Dealer says it's because there's so much tech on these cars not running them often enough will cause this. It did happen after being gone for several days both times. Frankly I'm scared it's going to happen again when I'm out somewhere with kids in tow. Dealer says "they've seen this with Covid and folks not driving as much."
Is this a load of crap and should I push for a better solution? Is there truly a better solution? Better battery?
Is this a load of crap and should I push for a better solution? Is there truly a better solution? Better battery?
#29
I'd like to create a comprehensive thread on all known RDX battery issues because there are a number of them I have encountered. Here is what I know to be possible causes:
1) HFL - the handsfree Bluetooth module drains the battery and is the most common cause. Unplug or replace HFL.
2) AC clutch - the relay can get stuck "on" and the clutch never disengages and drains the battery. Replace relay.
3) Stereo Amplifier - it's down there with the HFL under the center console and it needs to be replaced. It has it's own fuse so you can test it for battery draw, but on my car it was intermittent.
4) Door lock actuator - when you press the door lock/unlock, one door lock can get stuck locking (or unlocking) and drain the battery. I have not had this myself but I have heard that you'll know it by the door not unlocking or locking when it should and/or the alarm doesn't arm on the double press of the remote. Don't forget about the back hatch door.
On #3 above (Amplifier), I would really love to read the TSB on this. The number is 07-064 but I cannot find the actual TSB anywhere. I'd love to see what it says as I believe this is my problem.
So many parasitic draws in one car - ugh. Anything else you guys have seen?
1) HFL - the handsfree Bluetooth module drains the battery and is the most common cause. Unplug or replace HFL.
2) AC clutch - the relay can get stuck "on" and the clutch never disengages and drains the battery. Replace relay.
3) Stereo Amplifier - it's down there with the HFL under the center console and it needs to be replaced. It has it's own fuse so you can test it for battery draw, but on my car it was intermittent.
4) Door lock actuator - when you press the door lock/unlock, one door lock can get stuck locking (or unlocking) and drain the battery. I have not had this myself but I have heard that you'll know it by the door not unlocking or locking when it should and/or the alarm doesn't arm on the double press of the remote. Don't forget about the back hatch door.
On #3 above (Amplifier), I would really love to read the TSB on this. The number is 07-064 but I cannot find the actual TSB anywhere. I'd love to see what it says as I believe this is my problem.
So many parasitic draws in one car - ugh. Anything else you guys have seen?
I think I have an amplifier issue in my RDX 2011. I pulled fuse # 31 and the current dropped from 1.2A to around 40mA. I noticed the current is kinda jumping or pulsing if you will. Not sure if it's normal or should I check anything else. The bluetooth module has been disconnected already.
The question to who already has some experience replacing the amp - how difficult / easy was it? Did you do it yourself or at the dealers? Is the radio amp still available somewhere? If not - is there a third party amp that fits Acura RDX 2011?
I appreciate any advices!
Thanks !
Last edited by Abolit; 11-12-2023 at 08:19 AM. Reason: grammar
#30
I ordered a used one online and swapped it myself. In my 07 it was underneath the center console. You pop off both sides and scoot the seats all the way back. Pretty easy.
#31
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