installing mtx re-q5
#3
WSPY is right. I have one installed in an 08 non tech. Amp outputs and then mount it right under the center console (in front of shifter)
To keep mine looking stock I got a 300w mono amp and bought a Kicker 8" Low Profile Sub and just mounted it in the stock sub housing. Sounds great, you can feel the thump when you want and everything will look stock.
For Rock, Metal, Pop it sounds great. If you listen to rap or real heavy base music you probably have to get a pair of 10s and up.
To keep mine looking stock I got a 300w mono amp and bought a Kicker 8" Low Profile Sub and just mounted it in the stock sub housing. Sounds great, you can feel the thump when you want and everything will look stock.
For Rock, Metal, Pop it sounds great. If you listen to rap or real heavy base music you probably have to get a pair of 10s and up.
#4
Instructor
^ not really. you would just get a sub better than a shallow mount kicker.. its that bad that they dont even list a xmax for that sub. that sub is better suited for a mid bass. get something with a lil beefier surround and it should handle any music you throw at it. or do what im gonna do............
build thread coming soon. cast members include mr mdf and mrs fiberglass with the new born baby dayton.
build thread coming soon. cast members include mr mdf and mrs fiberglass with the new born baby dayton.
#6
Instructor
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-466
picked that one due to its thiele for a small enclosure so i dont have to build it out too far.
kinda nice for a 1.7 cuft tuned to 26hz
picked that one due to its thiele for a small enclosure so i dont have to build it out too far.
kinda nice for a 1.7 cuft tuned to 26hz
![](http://i52.tinypic.com/1493y1z.jpg)
Trending Topics
#9
I want to keep everything inside stock except the sub, what do I need to do? Replacing the factory sub sounds good and would take less space. Any suggestions? I wanted to add at 12w3 with a 250/1 and keep the stock mids and tweets and head unit. 2008 Acura TL
#11
i used an adjustable line output converter and spliced it into the stock subwoofer wires(in the right panel of the trunk) so i didnt have to get behind the headunit. using an autotek 1500 to push two 15" kicker comps. if you wire it right and utilize the space in the spare tire compartment you can have an extremely clean setup
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#15
Instructor
another would to have a fiberglass enclosure done in the stock location to handle a bigger sub. not meaning a bigger in diameter really unless you want to go that way, but being able to run a true sub and not a shallow type that doesnt have that good of output. this way you can have the enclosure tuned to the spec of the sub
these are not the only options you have but ones that atleast retain the space
#16
I am curious how things went with the RE_EQ5?....I used one to wire up amps in my son's Charger (to keep factory Boston Head Unit and all its features in the car) and it sounded great musically, very good in fact, but had a irritating background clicking....went through everything with a fine tooth comb, and still nothing. took it to where I bought it, and they couldn't find anything, so we ended up changing head unit for an Alpine and clean as a whistle with no background sound at all. So wondering if that sound is inherent in the RE-EQ5 and its speaker level input, or something specific to that car, since it uses a lot of "can-bus" wiring rather than traditional wiring...
#17
Also, in my own TL (keeping in mind this install is several years old) I used fiberglass boxes shaped like the outer skin of the car and mounted one on each side of the back of the trunk, right in front of tailights...used 12" kicker solobaris (the round ones...told you this install was old) although a bit inefficient, they do sound very acurate.
#18
Instructor
I am curious how things went with the RE_EQ5?....I used one to wire up amps in my son's Charger (to keep factory Boston Head Unit and all its features in the car) and it sounded great musically, very good in fact, but had a irritating background clicking....went through everything with a fine tooth comb, and still nothing. took it to where I bought it, and they couldn't find anything, so we ended up changing head unit for an Alpine and clean as a whistle with no background sound at all. So wondering if that sound is inherent in the RE-EQ5 and its speaker level input, or something specific to that car, since it uses a lot of "can-bus" wiring rather than traditional wiring...
#19
Instructor
Also, in my own TL (keeping in mind this install is several years old) I used fiberglass boxes shaped like the outer skin of the car and mounted one on each side of the back of the trunk, right in front of tailights...used 12" kicker solobaris (the round ones...told you this install was old) although a bit inefficient, they do sound very acurate.
#20
I guess it may have been a bad unit...havn't tried it in anything else since....no, I did the installation myself of the entire car,,,,have been doing audio installations for 20 years as a hobby for self, freinds and family....this was the first time I ever tried to use speaker lead as source...as I have always used an aftermarket head unit to feed the amps. Since his car had so many integrated features with the OE headunit, we wanted to try and retain it first, and that is why we tried the RE-EQ5.... The shop where I bought the unit said it must have been my cables or wiring, but when I installed the Alpine, it was quiet and clean as a whistle, using same cables and amps.
#21
I just mean the old style of solobarics were only about 87db, where as more of the new subs are a lot more efficient. They suck a fair bit of power, but DO have tremendous sound quality for sure. The boxes took me a couple of weeks to build, on and off....exactly .85 cu ft each, and contoured exactly to fit in the back corner of the trunk, and virtually no loss of space...Again, keep in mind this install was done probably 8 years ago, and still going strong with no problems. Only change over the years was going from Alpine speakers in doors to MB Quarts. (found a new set of the "old" style MB's when they made fantastic equipment) --a pair of coaxials in rear, and a 3 driver system up front....7" midbass driver in door, 5.25" and tweeter in Q-logic kick panels....imaging is phenomenal...but need to advise passengers not to step on the grille when they get in.
#22
I am having issue with my subwoofer install using a RE-Q in my RDX 2007 Tec
Issues: no music plays out of the sub from the below install. I am confused because I followed all the proper installs. I only question how the RE-Q and remote wire is set up but mainly the RE-Q sub wire inputs. Amp works fine because I switched different amps and when I move the settings around I can get the speaker to move, like a bump sound.
Setup:
MTX RE-Q
JL Audio 250-1
JL Audio 12w3v2 D6
Rest is all stock
Current install:
RE-Q setup:
RE-Q tapped into the OEM HU harness wires using the following settings:
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Purple
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
The remote is tapped into the cig accessory because I read that the HU unit is actually a 8volt. I ran speaker wires from the Sub input wires of the RE-Q to the back of the car and tapped into the red and green wires right before the sub harness.
Amp:
4 guage amp kit, power from battery, grounded to frame of car right behind the arm rest center console ( paint stripped for optimal ground ), rem to same cig accessory as RE-Q. RCA from RE-Q sub output to amp input and amp speaker output to sub.
Questions:
For this set up, will both the rem work fine with no road noise and will I be able to use the cigarette lighter in the future? If not, where should I tap it into and what color are the wires (please provide wire detail colors and harness, a photo would be ideal).
I believe my setup is not working because I have the RE-Q set up wrong. I think the way I set up the sub input to the RE-Q is wrong. When I was looking at the wire diagram, it states the sub wires are the green and red which I could not find in the oem amp wire harnesses. That is why I ran the wire back to the rear where I know for sure the sub wires are.
So for this, I am confused. Is there a factory sub amp in the OEM speaker box and should I be tapping the RE-Q sub wires else where? If so where, what colors and harness should I be tapping into.
I currently have my car interior all taken apart and need it for work tomorrow so if I can get a quick response, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time, knowledge and help.
Issues: no music plays out of the sub from the below install. I am confused because I followed all the proper installs. I only question how the RE-Q and remote wire is set up but mainly the RE-Q sub wire inputs. Amp works fine because I switched different amps and when I move the settings around I can get the speaker to move, like a bump sound.
Setup:
MTX RE-Q
JL Audio 250-1
JL Audio 12w3v2 D6
Rest is all stock
Current install:
RE-Q setup:
RE-Q tapped into the OEM HU harness wires using the following settings:
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Green
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Purple
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
The remote is tapped into the cig accessory because I read that the HU unit is actually a 8volt. I ran speaker wires from the Sub input wires of the RE-Q to the back of the car and tapped into the red and green wires right before the sub harness.
Amp:
4 guage amp kit, power from battery, grounded to frame of car right behind the arm rest center console ( paint stripped for optimal ground ), rem to same cig accessory as RE-Q. RCA from RE-Q sub output to amp input and amp speaker output to sub.
Questions:
For this set up, will both the rem work fine with no road noise and will I be able to use the cigarette lighter in the future? If not, where should I tap it into and what color are the wires (please provide wire detail colors and harness, a photo would be ideal).
I believe my setup is not working because I have the RE-Q set up wrong. I think the way I set up the sub input to the RE-Q is wrong. When I was looking at the wire diagram, it states the sub wires are the green and red which I could not find in the oem amp wire harnesses. That is why I ran the wire back to the rear where I know for sure the sub wires are.
So for this, I am confused. Is there a factory sub amp in the OEM speaker box and should I be tapping the RE-Q sub wires else where? If so where, what colors and harness should I be tapping into.
I currently have my car interior all taken apart and need it for work tomorrow so if I can get a quick response, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time, knowledge and help.
Last edited by ryee81; 10-23-2011 at 12:25 PM.
#23
Copy cat shinobi
I am having issue with my subwoofer install using a RE-Q in my RDX 2007 Tec
Issues: no music plays out of the sub from the below install. I am confused because I followed all the proper installs. I only question how the RE-Q and remote wire is set up but mainly the RE-Q sub wire inputs. Amp works fine because I switched different amps and when I move the settings around I can get the speaker to move, like a bump sound. Sorry please link a install you are refering to. The bump sound sounds like a interconnect or remote issue, at a glance.
Setup:
MTX RE-Q
JL Audio 250-1 Isnt 250w rms a little low for the 12w3v2...
JL Audio 12w3v2 D6 I think this is a good dvc subwoofer with rms of 300watts , I went w0 with 250w rms
Rest is all stock
Current install:
RE-Q setup:
RE-Q tapped into the OEM HU harness wires using the following settings: You are looking for the "A" Molex plug (off of CD Changer) A17 and A14 only. If you are looking at the OEM amp use the lower gauge (thicker) wiring that iirc is rearward harness molex connector. Run parallel, off both if tapping CD changer or parallel wiring off of OEM amp if maintaining OEM amp. Otherwise if deleting of OEM amp splice into the wires.
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Green (~ BATT good)
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Purple (~ ACC good)
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black I would not chose to run any "audio upgrade" ground back thru a harness, and I think that is a common mistake that leads to noise thru the speakers. Ground the head or DSP, in your case, out to a nearby chassis metal with self-tapping screw with spider clamp/washer.
The remote is tapped into the cig accessory because I read that the HU unit is actually a 8volt. I ran speaker wires from the Sub input wires of the RE-Q to the back of the car and tapped into the red and green wires right before the sub harness. I would not have chose this as an option to remote the DSP or stereo. I will provide a good thread on how to wire the car, shortly after the install thread.
Red happens to be Dash and Console lights (-), why it would be at the Amp is ??clueless?? but to further clarify the car runs on 12volt all over. I multi-metered every source I splice, just to be "SAFE" but I have a diagram that shows red to be essentially ILL(-) This may be the source of some of your grief..
Amp:
4 guage amp kit, power from battery, grounded to frame of car right behind the arm rest center console ( paint stripped for optimal ground ), rem to same cig accessory as RE-Q. RCA from RE-Q sub output to amp input and amp speaker output to sub. The "cig" accessory is BATT and does your amp stay on? I would imagine so, is this the 12volt power source in the C.Con glovebox? The kit is a little big for 250 watts, but it does alow for future expansions.
Questions:
For this set up, will both the rem work fine with no road noise and will I be able to use the cigarette lighter in the future? If not, where should I tap it into and what color are the wires (please provide wire detail colors and harness, a photo would be ideal). I'll get that one up and going by Sunday I hope...
I believe my setup is not working because I have the RE-Q set up wrong. I think the way I set up the sub input to the RE-Q is wrong. When I was looking at the wire diagram, it states the sub wires are the green and red which I could not find in the oem amp wire harnesses. That is why I ran the wire back to the rear where I know for sure the sub wires are. LOL good thinking I did the same with mine.![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
So for this, I am confused. Is there a factory sub amp in the OEM speaker box and should I be tapping the RE-Q sub wires else where? If so where, what colors and harness should I be tapping into. I believe that there no discrete rear amp for the Sub
I currently have my car interior all taken apart and need it for work tomorrow so if I can get a quick response, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time, knowledge and help. I have lots of pix to upload so it's gonna take a while.
Issues: no music plays out of the sub from the below install. I am confused because I followed all the proper installs. I only question how the RE-Q and remote wire is set up but mainly the RE-Q sub wire inputs. Amp works fine because I switched different amps and when I move the settings around I can get the speaker to move, like a bump sound. Sorry please link a install you are refering to. The bump sound sounds like a interconnect or remote issue, at a glance.
Setup:
MTX RE-Q
JL Audio 250-1 Isnt 250w rms a little low for the 12w3v2...
JL Audio 12w3v2 D6 I think this is a good dvc subwoofer with rms of 300watts , I went w0 with 250w rms
Rest is all stock
Current install:
RE-Q setup:
RE-Q tapped into the OEM HU harness wires using the following settings: You are looking for the "A" Molex plug (off of CD Changer) A17 and A14 only. If you are looking at the OEM amp use the lower gauge (thicker) wiring that iirc is rearward harness molex connector. Run parallel, off both if tapping CD changer or parallel wiring off of OEM amp if maintaining OEM amp. Otherwise if deleting of OEM amp splice into the wires.
Car Radio Constant 12v+ Wire: Green (~ BATT good)
Car Radio Switched 12v+ Wire: Purple (~ ACC good)
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black I would not chose to run any "audio upgrade" ground back thru a harness, and I think that is a common mistake that leads to noise thru the speakers. Ground the head or DSP, in your case, out to a nearby chassis metal with self-tapping screw with spider clamp/washer.
The remote is tapped into the cig accessory because I read that the HU unit is actually a 8volt. I ran speaker wires from the Sub input wires of the RE-Q to the back of the car and tapped into the red and green wires right before the sub harness. I would not have chose this as an option to remote the DSP or stereo. I will provide a good thread on how to wire the car, shortly after the install thread.
Red happens to be Dash and Console lights (-), why it would be at the Amp is ??clueless?? but to further clarify the car runs on 12volt all over. I multi-metered every source I splice, just to be "SAFE" but I have a diagram that shows red to be essentially ILL(-) This may be the source of some of your grief..
Amp:
4 guage amp kit, power from battery, grounded to frame of car right behind the arm rest center console ( paint stripped for optimal ground ), rem to same cig accessory as RE-Q. RCA from RE-Q sub output to amp input and amp speaker output to sub. The "cig" accessory is BATT and does your amp stay on? I would imagine so, is this the 12volt power source in the C.Con glovebox? The kit is a little big for 250 watts, but it does alow for future expansions.
Questions:
For this set up, will both the rem work fine with no road noise and will I be able to use the cigarette lighter in the future? If not, where should I tap it into and what color are the wires (please provide wire detail colors and harness, a photo would be ideal). I'll get that one up and going by Sunday I hope...
I believe my setup is not working because I have the RE-Q set up wrong. I think the way I set up the sub input to the RE-Q is wrong. When I was looking at the wire diagram, it states the sub wires are the green and red which I could not find in the oem amp wire harnesses. That is why I ran the wire back to the rear where I know for sure the sub wires are. LOL good thinking I did the same with mine.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
So for this, I am confused. Is there a factory sub amp in the OEM speaker box and should I be tapping the RE-Q sub wires else where? If so where, what colors and harness should I be tapping into. I believe that there no discrete rear amp for the Sub
I currently have my car interior all taken apart and need it for work tomorrow so if I can get a quick response, it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time, knowledge and help. I have lots of pix to upload so it's gonna take a while.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#25
Has anyone switch out their tech package sub with a aftermarket one while keeping it in the same stock location?
Upgraded amp? The stock amp powers all the same and sub woofer correct?
Upgraded amp? The stock amp powers all the same and sub woofer correct?
#26
They also offered me custom enclosure and it will be put in the stock location, they told me it will be a little bigger but they will match the color of the sidings so it will still look stock, problem with this is this is the first time they do a custom sub for RDX and i dont wanna to buy something that i dont see first.. this was 2 years ago, maybe there's a custom made enclosure for RDX now..
#27
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#28
I wanted to upgrade the Sub that would fit back into the stock location.
Only thing is running the Amp.
The Amp outlet should be the same as the Non-tech.
I am wondering if it is something that I can do it myself.
WSPY is right. I have one installed in an 08 non tech. Amp outputs and then mount it right under the center console (in front of shifter)
To keep mine looking stock I got a 300w mono amp and bought a Kicker 8" Low Profile Sub and just mounted it in the stock sub housing. Sounds great, you can feel the thump when you want and everything will look stock.
To keep mine looking stock I got a 300w mono amp and bought a Kicker 8" Low Profile Sub and just mounted it in the stock sub housing. Sounds great, you can feel the thump when you want and everything will look stock.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cycdaniel
1G TSX Performance Parts & Modifications
8
12-17-2019 10:58 AM
pistacio
2G TL (1999-2003)
10
09-26-2015 09:45 AM