Dtheod

Ok...I have read many posts online about the SHAWD light coming on. And there are endless people writing about it, everyone seems to have a different fix, or does not have a clue why the light comes on. I think its because unless you really pay attention to the variables, you would never know it could be happening from this...

I have a 2007 RDX, with 153K miles. The car runs great, as I maintain it very well. The SHAWD light along with the check engine light came on as I was driving home from Atlantic City, NJ. I usually visit AC, twice a month or more. I rarely fill up my gas tank prior to going, thinking I can always get gas on the way home. I usually get gas from the same place all the time. I use Mobil, sometimes BP. I do not put cheap gas in my car. The RDX calls for super, 93-94 octane fuel. There is no way around this.

The SHAWD would only come on as I drove home from Atlantic City, back towards NY. I found this very odd, as it has done this 6X so far. If you restart the car the SHAWD light always goes away, however the check engine light will go away after A few starts. Whatever the factory has set that up. This was insane, because the SHAWD never comes on in NY. I was thinking at first how on earth can the light come on only as I’m driving home from AC, and never while I’m going. I was thinking maybe the air is more dense, etc. Then I realized, as I come home from AC, I always stop for gas...I fill up with Sunoco. All the gas stations going from NY to the Jersey Shore are all Sunoco. As they must have a contract. This makes me think that the gas they sell is either not super...I use 93, however that does not mean just because I tell them to use 93, I get 93. I feel a loss of power after I fill up. Either these cars are very sensitive to the gas you use, or these Sunoco stations are crooks. They may figure, lets sell cheap quality gas, maybe with a higher ethanol than allowed. And since these cars have a turbo, once you hit the gas pedal, the car is not burning the fuel the right way, and triggers the light to come on. If I don’t go to AC, the SHAWD never comes on. As I always use Mobil gas. If your car is triggering this light and you fill up at Sunoco, or Pilot, or some cheap gas station, try using Mobil or BP, and see if your light still comes on. If it doesn’t there is the problem...

IgottaTLyousomething

iTrader: (1)

So you feel as though our AWD system's performance is linked to the type of gas used?

kevin2m4

more likely an evap system problem (fuel evaporation system leak) causing the check engine light which would also trigger the shawd. get the code scanned and let us know what the code is.

Dtheod

I don’t think gas is a direct link. Because the SHAWD has to do with the AWD system. However, that system works with power being transferred to the AWD. When we hit the gas to go, and the gas has too much ethanol in it, or is cheap gas...it does not allow the turbo to give the right amount of boost. Therefore triggers this light. Not to say that other causes may not make the SHAWD light come on. If you have a problem with the turbo and you need a new wastegate actuator, that will trigget the SHAWD light to come on as well. But if you don’t have any issues with the wastegate, or anything else, it could be gas related. As I wrote in my post...my car only triggers the light when I put gas from Sunoco. And the only time I use that brand is going to Atlantic City. As there are no Mobil stations at the rest stops. If your SHAWD light comes on and always comes on, it may not be from gas. I’m sure there are a lot of different things that can trigger that light to come on. The RDX is always running on AWD. Once the light comes on, it is driving in FWD. You feel the difference in the driving. Then once you pull over and restart the car, the light goes off.

kevin2m4

correct

They are linked but not mutually exclusive.

any check engine code related to powertrain or emissions will trigger shawd light.

kevin2m4

did you get it scanned yet?

1rdxbandit

Just wanted to shim in. I recently discovered a leak at the intake hose, this leak triggered both engine n sh-awd light. the intake hose had several cracks. At normal speeds no issues it only becomes noticetable when u floor the pedal the car than chokes n misfires.. I've since changed my intake no issues to report to date.

Midnight Mystery

Hmmm.... Something similar may be going on with mine too....

1rdxbandit

You never know, perform a thural inspection, u might just find the culprit. I couldn't believe mine had gone bad but i guess from being in the engine bay expose to heat n changes in tempature rubber crystalizes.

1rdxbandit

Unfortunately, i am still having an issue getting misfire codes at cylinder 2 n 4. My course of action is to verify the coil pack voltages and turbo actuator, another factor might be that lately i been using 87.octane fuel. The problem is only present at high speeds.

1rdxbandit

Update bought 2 coilpacks. Bwd. Bluestreak. Intermodal brand, going to install them this afternoon.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^always use OEM coil packs..
alternatively, you could have troubleshooted the good coil packs by swapping it with the bad...

1rdxbandit

Polski power.

1rdxbandit

Your probably right, i bought 2 coilpacks base on the codes i retreived from the ecu. I been consistently getting a misfire on cylinders 2 n 4. The misfire only happens when i floor the pedal.

1rdxbandit

Could someone chime in,
I understand the cylinders are as follow 1.2.3.4
An so when replacing coilpacks do you do same or does one follow the firing order 1.3.4.2..?

Tomtwtwtw

I'm not sure I understand the sketch on the diagram above. With hood open, facing the vehicle, your cylinders are left to right, 1-4. The firing order is 1-3-4-2, but that doesn't change the physical location of any of the cylinders.