Timing belt
12-10-2005, 07:08 PM
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Timing belt
I am trying to change the timing belt on a 1997 Acura CL 3.0 and am having trouble getting the bolt out that holds the harmonic balancer to the crank. I just want to make sure that the bolt has a normal thread(rotates counter clockwise to remove) and not a reverse thread. Has anyone taken one off? Thanks, Victor.
12-10-2005, 08:17 PM
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its does, but it requires a CRAZY amount of TQ. You'll need a very healthy air compressor and air tool to get it off or you'll need alot of leverage/breaker bar 4 feet long
12-11-2005, 07:35 AM
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I like the Santa getup. So at least I'm pulling the right direction on that bolt. Any ideas on how to keep the crank stopped while I put a breaker bar to it? It's an automatic, so I've just been using an impact gun, which hasn't worked(supposedly a 600 pound max torque gun). Thanks for answering my thread. Victor.
12-11-2005, 10:49 AM
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your gun might be strong enough, but unless your air compressor supplies it with its recommended psi at a consistant rate, your gun may never see even 300 foot poungs !! have somebody step on the break while in park and take a 4 feet long breaker to it ( just put a pip over it ) and make sure your extension is at least 1/2 inch and thick so your out of the wheel well. THen break it off. The best way to do things, is have a shop take the bolt out for you.
12-11-2005, 11:41 AM
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when i did it on a 4 banger / standard, i had to pull the starter. then i wedged a tire iron in the flywheel and clutch. that locked the engine down. then lift the front end and put it on jack stands, make sure the car is sturdy. i all ways use my E-BRAKE. youll need a 1/2 " break over bar atleast 2 foot long. ONLY USE A BLACK IMPACT SOCKET. WHAT WORKED FOR ME IS I SIT ON THE GROUND AND GRABBED THE BUMPER AERA. I PUT MY FOOT ON THE BREAK OVER BAR, AND PUSHED LIKE HELL WITH MY FOOT. THIS HAS WORKED FOR ME TWICE. ONCE ON A CIVIC 1.5L , THEN ON A INTEGRA 1.8L. THAT BOLT IS PRETTY HARD TO BREAK LOOSE BUT IT CAN BE DONE. GOOD LUCK
12-11-2005, 01:51 PM
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yea.. did my freinds car used a four foot bar, 2 broken sockets later it came off..
just had my car done.. my freind is the service manager at a dealer, so it was done cheap enough for it not worth doing myself. (paid 360 for parts and labor, TB, waterpump, crank seal, cam bearing seal?, and a few other random things)
just had my car done.. my freind is the service manager at a dealer, so it was done cheap enough for it not worth doing myself. (paid 360 for parts and labor, TB, waterpump, crank seal, cam bearing seal?, and a few other random things)
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12-12-2005, 07:06 AM
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MY main problem is the automatic tranny. How can I stop the crank from rotating when I apply force to the crank bolt? Easy to do on a manual shift, but what about an automatic? Thanks.
12-18-2005, 10:54 PM
#10
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that bolt is hard man...put that car as far as you can get it and use a long bar....my friends and I held on to the radiator support and bounced on the wrench....dealer was going to charge almost 1000 for labor alone...if your rich then you can do that...try using a leverage bar....
12-19-2005, 10:16 AM
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Thanks everyone for the info. I finally had to order the $50 special tool to hold the pulley still while I used a breaker bar clamped to the end of a six foot 2x4. No problem. Lots of bruises and skinned knuckles messing with that 3 inch clearance. Car is back together with a new timing belt, water pump, accessory belt, and power steering belt. Don't want to do this again. Ever.
12-28-2005, 07:51 AM
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putting the tranny in park wont stop the engine from moving. automatics dont work that way. and if you would have put the breaker bar on the bolt. turned the crank totally clockwise till the bar was against the frame you could have disconnected the ignition coil and bumped the starter. the 3.0's natural rotation is clockwise so the engine would have broken the torque, sorry i didnt see this thread till today.
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