I purchased a new timing belt tensioner with my new timing belts. Does anyone know of any pitfalls to avoid when installing this gizmo? I am about to remove the old belts. Does the tensioner adjust automatically?

Thanks,

Mark

 

I saw your rejected post on the TL community and followed you here.

Tensioner adjusts manually. After belt and tensioner installation you have to turn the engine ~2 cogs on the camshaft belt gear to tension belts and then lock the adjustment nut in place.

The T'belt cover is tricky to remove/install. Removing the driver's side engine mount and lowering the engine provides additional access space that helps greatly. No substitute for patience on this task. I glue the cover seal in place w/ tolulene (model airplane) glue to prevent it being displaced during installtion. Note, the tensioner adjustment nut MUST be removed during cover installation. You won't get in on otherwise.

This is not a job for freehand DIY. I would recommend purchasing the Acura shop manual for your vehicle, or at minimum a Haynes manual.

I've changed T'belts on 2.2CL, Accords (same engine), and 2.5TL. All have similar timing belt tensioner mechanism. You are doing the right thing by replacing the tensioner. My observation is that the bearing grease will not last for two T'belt intervals and bearing failure would almost certainly lead to T'belt parting.

Water pump replacement is optional for DIY, but pump may not last until next belt replacement.

Read my post on 1st Gen TL, Timing Belt Replacement Notes.

Your biggest DIY challenge is releasing the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) retaining bolt. It is typically very tight and may require a torque of 800 ft-lbs (yes ft-lbs not in-lbs) or more to release. I use a Schley Restraint Tool (available on ebay, et al) to hold the pulley w/ an 18"x1/2" breaker bar and a 2-ft x 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm deep impact socket to attack the bolt through the restraint tool opening. A 3-ft cheater pipe is necessary to increase leverage. I usually manage about a 4-ft lever arm. This combined w/ 200 lbs pull force gets 800 ft-lbs and should do the job. Occasionally, a good air impact wrench will break the bolt, but I've been defeated by the bolt w/ an air impact on several occasions. Problem w/ 2.2CL and Accords is the bolt is recessed in the wheel well and you'll also need about 2-ft of 1/2" extensions to reach the bolt and allow your breaker bar + cheater pipe room to rotate outside the wheel well.

good luck