Cracked Oil Pan

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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #1  
dgdoc's Avatar
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From: Potomac,MD
Cracked Oil Pan

Been rebuilding a 97 Acura CL and noticed a small leak around the oil plug.

This seemed to start right after my wife took the car in to a local gas station and had the oil changed (and put synthetic in it).

I figured it was the crush washer and the combination of putting synthetic in a car with 95K miles just made it leak faster.
Replaced the crush washer and bolt, torqued to 33 ft/lbs, and ITS STILL LEAKING!!

Upon further examination, noticed that there is a hairline crack/fracture, approximately 1/2" right next to the drain hole.
(See pics attached)

Looks like it was caused by stress from some idiot over-torqueing the drain plug. Not sure how long this has been there, or if the change to synthetic simply made it leak more.

Couple questions:
1. Has anyone seen this before?
2. Can it be fixed by draining the oil and using JB Weld -- or would I be better off replacing the oil pan?
3. How difficult and how long would it take to replace the Oil Pan on this car? (Looks like you have to drop the exhaust under the pan - bolts heavily rusted).
4. Is there a good DIY for replacing the oil pan?

Lastly, is it a bad idea to put synthetic in a 14 year old car -- ie, will it cause additional leakage as compared to regular oil? Or is this a myth?

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails Cracked Oil Pan-dbb73b6c.jpg   Cracked Oil Pan-5bf79a47.jpg  

Last edited by dgdoc; Oct 30, 2011 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 04:03 PM
  #2  
DaInFaMMuS1's Avatar
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From: Central FL...PSU Nittany Lion
I wouldn't skimp on something like an oil pan with JB weld. Just replace it. Pan is not that hard to replace as long as you can get the exhaust off. WAYYY easier than my gotdamn M3 oil pan which I had to drop damn near the whole front end. Also synthetic might leak a bit more, I did so in my CL when I swapped engines and noticed more oil leaks, but nothing super substantial. I burned more oil on vtec crossover than I lost from oil leaks lol.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 07:58 PM
  #3  
dgdoc's Avatar
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From: Potomac,MD
Thanks.

How long did it take to change the pan?

Can it be done without raising the engine?

Also, can I use an impact wrench on the nuts connecting the A-Pipe to the Exhaust Manifold? Can't get any PB Blaster in there and concerned I might break the studs if it is rusted tight.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #4  
97'CL2.2's Avatar
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From: Chagrin Falls, OH
yes you can use an impact...i replaced my downpipe a few months ago..used a 1/2" impact with two extensions and they came right off
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 08:01 PM
  #5  
97greenclbro's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
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just changed my oil pan after peeling it like a banana, took me about 3 hrs in my driveway. Most of the time was trying to take off the exhaust nuts/bolts but overall it wasnt that bad. Didnt have to raise the engine, btw
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Old Nov 12, 2011 | 10:01 PM
  #6  
Eband27's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Montreal. Quebec. Canada
Replaced my pan/put on the header in about 5 hours in total. I was taking my sweet ass time though. its a PITA to get the new oil pan and gasket back on the block, lol. Make sure to follow the torque sequence and specifications when re-installing the pan! I did it 2 weeks ago.
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