Can't start my car. Spark Pl;ugs?
#1
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Can't start my car. Spark Pl;ugs?
Hey Guys
I have been getting some bad response when i drive.
I mean when i am driving and try to punch it from 1 st gear it will start to hesitate badly making me lean of the pedal so it can shift to the next gear.
On the other hand sometimes the i am able to get to 3rd gear but when i rev up to 3 rpms i get the same.
My damn mechanic can't be trusted. These fucks are doing bad so they want to fuck up my baby so i can pay there mortgage.
Before i took her in for a oil change it never did this at all.
Also the car will not start now. It turns and cranks but nothing? I got around 195000 miles on her.
P.S. the mechanic took out the spark plugs and said they are fine. Could the slightest dirt or oil on a spark plug make malfunction?
Thanks for your time
Peace
I have been getting some bad response when i drive.
I mean when i am driving and try to punch it from 1 st gear it will start to hesitate badly making me lean of the pedal so it can shift to the next gear.
On the other hand sometimes the i am able to get to 3rd gear but when i rev up to 3 rpms i get the same.
My damn mechanic can't be trusted. These fucks are doing bad so they want to fuck up my baby so i can pay there mortgage.
Before i took her in for a oil change it never did this at all.
Also the car will not start now. It turns and cranks but nothing? I got around 195000 miles on her.
P.S. the mechanic took out the spark plugs and said they are fine. Could the slightest dirt or oil on a spark plug make malfunction?
Thanks for your time
Peace
#3
Drifting
Sounds like what I had a couple of months ago. Mine was sputtering and would (seemingly) randomly lose all power. Pulled the plugs and they were shit... Put in Iridiums and I've been good ever since.
As for not starting, same question as Asian...
As for not starting, same question as Asian...
#4
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yeah Asianspec I went to try her again and she did turn on. She does click. It turned on today but i didn't drive her due to not wanting to get stuck.
One thing though
When turn the key to start her. It violently starts.
I also pulled the code cause my engine light came up and i got a PL 1361 which means a RPM sensor. But my mechanic reset it, and it didn;t come up right away, so he said drive with it to see if it comes up again. He also tried to tell me it had to do with the Crank Shaft Sensor . But the code simply states RPM sensor in the manual.
It was good to go and i drove fine for about 4 days until It started pouring down here and got flooded and then the engine light turned on again while driving the car in the rain.
It pulled the light twice both times when it was raining hard with mild flood puddles. So something is getting wet.
THanks guys for your help and knowledge.
Last edited by WineRed2.2CL; 10-07-2008 at 04:30 PM. Reason: spelling and added more
#5
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the problem one is your starter.
problem 2 i can't figure out, but im sure that Texashonda will chime in sooner or later.
on moving back.
problem 2 i can't figure out, but im sure that Texashonda will chime in sooner or later.
It was good to go and i drove fine for about 4 days until It started pouring down here and got flooded and then the engine light turned on again while driving the car in the rain.
It pulled the light twice both times when it was raining hard with mild flood puddles. So something is getting wet.
It pulled the light twice both times when it was raining hard with mild flood puddles. So something is getting wet.
Last edited by asianspec; 10-07-2008 at 11:58 PM.
#6
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what about timing belt?
Texas?
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low battery?
#9
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wassup BlackAck
Well i mean all the lights work and everything powers on. Besides my "mechanic" put a new one on about year ago or more, but no more than 2 years.
I was thinking the alternator. Why? Because i never replaced it yet.
Well as far as the CODE that pulled up i searched the NOOB guide and this is what I got.
8...............P1359,P1361,P1362................. ....CKP/TDC sensor 1
As i said in previous post he said that was the Crankshaft Position sensor.
Anyone?
#10
TDC sensor is in the distributor. It is not a replaceable part and a new distributor is required to fix. It could be a wiring or connector fault, but this is much less likely than a faulty sensor. Fix is typically to replace the distributor. A used unit would be lowest cost and a good fix.
Check car-part.com for a used unit near you and go by to inspect before purchase. Ask for a working unit garuntee, usually good for only 30 days but better than nothing.
If starter only clicks, but eventually engages and turns the engine, the solenoid copper contacts are worn out. New, Used, or Rebuilt starter is easiest fix. You can diy repair the solenoids w/ new contacts if you're handy w/ a 100w soldering iron. Check sherco auto supply for contacts and repair instructions.
good luck
Check car-part.com for a used unit near you and go by to inspect before purchase. Ask for a working unit garuntee, usually good for only 30 days but better than nothing.
If starter only clicks, but eventually engages and turns the engine, the solenoid copper contacts are worn out. New, Used, or Rebuilt starter is easiest fix. You can diy repair the solenoids w/ new contacts if you're handy w/ a 100w soldering iron. Check sherco auto supply for contacts and repair instructions.
good luck
#11
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Hey TexasHonda
Long Time. Thanks again with help with my IAC. I cleaned up those ports they were pretty caked up.
As far as this is concerned. I figured that my starting problem was due to old spark plugs. The tips were burnt and the ceramic was rusting.
I put in some NGK iridium spark plugs and that did the trick no hard starts at all smooth all the way.
As far for the sputtering I will try that out Texas. Let me ask you and guys on here. How important is your distrubutor and will a new one out perform a used one?
Thanks again Texas for the knowledge much appreciated. Ill post how the rest goes.
Here is a recap. She starts up now that I put new plugs, but still has the check engine light on and sputters on acceleration.
Stay tuned......
Long Time. Thanks again with help with my IAC. I cleaned up those ports they were pretty caked up.
As far as this is concerned. I figured that my starting problem was due to old spark plugs. The tips were burnt and the ceramic was rusting.
I put in some NGK iridium spark plugs and that did the trick no hard starts at all smooth all the way.
As far for the sputtering I will try that out Texas. Let me ask you and guys on here. How important is your distrubutor and will a new one out perform a used one?
Thanks again Texas for the knowledge much appreciated. Ill post how the rest goes.
Here is a recap. She starts up now that I put new plugs, but still has the check engine light on and sputters on acceleration.
Stay tuned......
TDC sensor is in the distributor. It is not a replaceable part and a new distributor is required to fix. It could be a wiring or connector fault, but this is much less likely than a faulty sensor. Fix is typically to replace the distributor. A used unit would be lowest cost and a good fix.
Check car-part.com for a used unit near you and go by to inspect before purchase. Ask for a working unit garuntee, usually good for only 30 days but better than nothing.
If starter only clicks, but eventually engages and turns the engine, the solenoid copper contacts are worn out. New, Used, or Rebuilt starter is easiest fix. You can diy repair the solenoids w/ new contacts if you're handy w/ a 100w soldering iron. Check sherco auto supply for contacts and repair instructions.
good luck
Check car-part.com for a used unit near you and go by to inspect before purchase. Ask for a working unit garuntee, usually good for only 30 days but better than nothing.
If starter only clicks, but eventually engages and turns the engine, the solenoid copper contacts are worn out. New, Used, or Rebuilt starter is easiest fix. You can diy repair the solenoids w/ new contacts if you're handy w/ a 100w soldering iron. Check sherco auto supply for contacts and repair instructions.
good luck
#12
Plugs won't fix the TDC sensor. My experience is a used part is as good as rebuilt parts at AZ, ORiellys, et al. You can get a bad part at both sources. On a part that is difficult to access, it may be worth paying OEM prices. On a distributor (very easy to access), I would go used.
good luck
good luck
#13
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ok bud thanks again. I will go to the junkyard today.
Plugs won't fix the TDC sensor. My experience is a used part is as good as rebuilt parts at AZ, ORiellys, et al. You can get a bad part at both sources. On a part that is difficult to access, it may be worth paying OEM prices. On a distributor (very easy to access), I would go used.
good luck
good luck
#14
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when i checked my Haynes manual it suggests to check the TDC when removing the distributor. What do i need to look for when doing this?
Plugs won't fix the TDC sensor. My experience is a used part is as good as rebuilt parts at AZ, ORiellys, et al. You can get a bad part at both sources. On a part that is difficult to access, it may be worth paying OEM prices. On a distributor (very easy to access), I would go used.
good luck
good luck
#16
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Hey guys well i finished putting in the new distributor.
Followed the instructions in my Haynes Manual and BAM. Good as new
The check engine cleared and everything is back to normal. THanks alot to those who helped, hint AcuraZine Lord Texas, and all others cough cough...
One important thing when removing the distributor that i saw was the Knuckle or Nut that is on the distributor must be in a certain position in order to properly have the right piston clearance when cranking the car.
Says that the rotor on the DIST. must angle towards the first spark plug terminal.
Anyone?
Get back in a moment duty calls....
Followed the instructions in my Haynes Manual and BAM. Good as new
The check engine cleared and everything is back to normal. THanks alot to those who helped, hint AcuraZine Lord Texas, and all others cough cough...
One important thing when removing the distributor that i saw was the Knuckle or Nut that is on the distributor must be in a certain position in order to properly have the right piston clearance when cranking the car.
Says that the rotor on the DIST. must angle towards the first spark plug terminal.
Anyone?
Get back in a moment duty calls....
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