1st post a dandy
#1
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Ok here it goes
my 97 2.2 cl has 189k and has had the v.s.s (variable speed sensor) disconnected for about 6 months so i've been w/o a speedometer and I'm guesssing in open loop due to piss poor performance. A few days ago while I was driving my Tach went completely dead but the car was still running....got home & turned the car off....won't turn back on, windows don't roll up, clock doesn't work,but the locks,alarm,cooling fan etc. are working.....all I get w/ key in ignition on is a battery light on the dash and no click but the car does run if I jump the stater.... I've tried everything (I can think of) fuses are good, battery tested good.
PLEEEASE HELP! any advice or suggestions I'm stummped
my 97 2.2 cl has 189k and has had the v.s.s (variable speed sensor) disconnected for about 6 months so i've been w/o a speedometer and I'm guesssing in open loop due to piss poor performance. A few days ago while I was driving my Tach went completely dead but the car was still running....got home & turned the car off....won't turn back on, windows don't roll up, clock doesn't work,but the locks,alarm,cooling fan etc. are working.....all I get w/ key in ignition on is a battery light on the dash and no click but the car does run if I jump the stater.... I've tried everything (I can think of) fuses are good, battery tested good.
PLEEEASE HELP! any advice or suggestions I'm stummped
#5
I agree you should make sure you have a good battery first.
A new VSS is < $25 bucks on ebay and takes 1/2 hr to install. No reason to go w/o a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor).
Loss of tach suggests you could have a coil failure, but loss of power from keyswitch or battery would have similar effect. Get a good battery and check your alternator is charging w/ a voltment (should be 13-14 volts at least.
good luck
A new VSS is < $25 bucks on ebay and takes 1/2 hr to install. No reason to go w/o a VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor).
Loss of tach suggests you could have a coil failure, but loss of power from keyswitch or battery would have similar effect. Get a good battery and check your alternator is charging w/ a voltment (should be 13-14 volts at least.
good luck
#7
Thanks for the suggestions. I've tested the -alternator (14.6 volts)
-battery (550cca, 12.65 static)
The car still drives so I don't think it is the ignition system.......or is it? I do have an aftermarket msd cap which called for the removal of my stock coil which I replaced with an aftermarket blaster coil (msd) this is run by a msd ignition
PERATING SPECIFICATIONS FOR MSD BLASTER IGNITION
Operating Voltage: +12 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 7.5 Amps Max
Spark Duration: 20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: 180 mJ Stored Energy (inductive ignition)
Weight and Size: 1.25 lbs, 6"Lx3.5"Wx1.75"H
Voltage Output Max: Primary: 420-450 Volts
Secondary: 40,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
The only other thing I can think of is thge ECU itself is bad....is this possible?
PS: thanks TexasHonda for the info on the V.S.S
-battery (550cca, 12.65 static)
The car still drives so I don't think it is the ignition system.......or is it? I do have an aftermarket msd cap which called for the removal of my stock coil which I replaced with an aftermarket blaster coil (msd) this is run by a msd ignition
![:O](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/embarrassment.gif)
Operating Voltage: +12 VDC Negative Ground
Current Requirements: 7.5 Amps Max
Spark Duration: 20° Crankshaft Rotation
Energy Output Max: 180 mJ Stored Energy (inductive ignition)
Weight and Size: 1.25 lbs, 6"Lx3.5"Wx1.75"H
Voltage Output Max: Primary: 420-450 Volts
Secondary: 40,000 Volts (Blaster Coil)
The only other thing I can think of is thge ECU itself is bad....is this possible?
PS: thanks TexasHonda for the info on the V.S.S
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#8
Short the service check connector and see what code/s are present.
Check the blk/yel wire at the distributor connector for 12V w/ keyswitch On. If no voltage, a keyswitch problem is indicated. If you have voltage, check for spark to a plug grounded to the engine. You should get a bright blue/pink spark.
Does the bad performance coincide w/ installation of aftermarket coil?
Everybody always suspects the ECU, but they very rarely are the problem.
good luck
Check the blk/yel wire at the distributor connector for 12V w/ keyswitch On. If no voltage, a keyswitch problem is indicated. If you have voltage, check for spark to a plug grounded to the engine. You should get a bright blue/pink spark.
Does the bad performance coincide w/ installation of aftermarket coil?
Everybody always suspects the ECU, but they very rarely are the problem.
good luck
#9
well sh*&!
Finally found the problem....the V.S.S wires were shorting out on the block which caused my back-up lights, Meter lights, Clock, Security Fuse (#16) to blow.....and I even checked that damn fuse before. I suppose I was too pissed off the first time to pay close attention to what the hell I was doing
Thanks to everyone for the advice and help! This is a great forum!
tildeath
Finally found the problem....the V.S.S wires were shorting out on the block which caused my back-up lights, Meter lights, Clock, Security Fuse (#16) to blow.....and I even checked that damn fuse before. I suppose I was too pissed off the first time to pay close attention to what the hell I was doing
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Thanks to everyone for the advice and help! This is a great forum!
tildeath
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