What is needed to add a sub to my car?
11-16-2003, 07:28 AM
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What is needed to add a sub to my car?
I know this question has been asked before, but I really couldn't find a solid answer and the people at places like Best Buy are itching to get their hands in my pockets.
I actually like how the Bose system is somewhat accurate with its sound, but it has almost no bass. I wanted to add a simple subwoofer (something like a 10 inch) and I need to know what I need.
From what I understand, I need a sub, a mono amp, a box, and some sort of a line out adapter to hook it up to the system. Do you guys have any recommendations? I don't want anything boomy, just something simple (read:cheap) and decent.
-peace
-EPS
I actually like how the Bose system is somewhat accurate with its sound, but it has almost no bass. I wanted to add a simple subwoofer (something like a 10 inch) and I need to know what I need.
From what I understand, I need a sub, a mono amp, a box, and some sort of a line out adapter to hook it up to the system. Do you guys have any recommendations? I don't want anything boomy, just something simple (read:cheap) and decent.
-peace
-EPS
11-16-2003, 11:05 AM
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what i'm personally doing right now:
1. dump the bose hu and get yourself something decent, with preouts...
2. replace the front speakers with something good for the time being, and leave the rears for later if you're low on cash
3. get your 12" sub/ 300w rms amp combo....whatever you do, don't buy a shatass amp (can blow your sub)
atleast you'll have a pretty decent system going for under $400?
runs decently, nice bump, and you can always add rear speakers or change your setup...
1. dump the bose hu and get yourself something decent, with preouts...
2. replace the front speakers with something good for the time being, and leave the rears for later if you're low on cash
3. get your 12" sub/ 300w rms amp combo....whatever you do, don't buy a shatass amp (can blow your sub)
atleast you'll have a pretty decent system going for under $400?
runs decently, nice bump, and you can always add rear speakers or change your setup...
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11-17-2003, 11:26 AM
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You Fawkin Kiddin Me!
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lmao... after reading the title tol this thread I cant resist...
A SUB!!!! lmao...
alpine typeR has a nice sub box for 1 or 2 10" woofers... I have a single 10 in my integra.. and it thumps being driven by an Alpine 200 Bass only amp...
A SUB!!!! lmao...
alpine typeR has a nice sub box for 1 or 2 10" woofers... I have a single 10 in my integra.. and it thumps being driven by an Alpine 200 Bass only amp...
11-17-2003, 12:11 PM
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????
I don't quite get what you mean. If you are talking about why I only want one subwoofer, it is because I don't like that much bass. I have been in other people's cars with two or more subs and it's too loud for my tastes.
I don't quite get what you mean. If you are talking about why I only want one subwoofer, it is because I don't like that much bass. I have been in other people's cars with two or more subs and it's too loud for my tastes.
11-17-2003, 12:16 PM
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You Fawkin Kiddin Me!
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umm....
All I am saying is that ALPINE makes great Type R subs which are available in both single and dual sub box styles... Look into that!
All I am saying is that ALPINE makes great Type R subs which are available in both single and dual sub box styles... Look into that!
11-17-2003, 12:25 PM
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I would recomment to get the Infinity Basslink.
It is self powered so there is no need for a separate mono amp,
It is compact as it only takes up aproximately 1 cubic foot of space in the trunk (12"X12"X10").
It is powerful enough for good vlean bass.
going to the right internet place it can be had for $196.00 + shipping. Then you only need an amp kit for about $60.00 depending onwhat you buy. They are very easy to install.
You will need some miscellaneous tap in connectors, wires and spade connectors, so I think an estimated $300.00 for the hole thing. I got one and I love it.
It is self powered so there is no need for a separate mono amp,
It is compact as it only takes up aproximately 1 cubic foot of space in the trunk (12"X12"X10").
It is powerful enough for good vlean bass.
going to the right internet place it can be had for $196.00 + shipping. Then you only need an amp kit for about $60.00 depending onwhat you buy. They are very easy to install.
You will need some miscellaneous tap in connectors, wires and spade connectors, so I think an estimated $300.00 for the hole thing. I got one and I love it.
11-17-2003, 12:36 PM
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Originally posted by Casper98CL
umm....
All I am saying is that ALPINE makes great Type R subs which are available in both single and dual sub box styles... Look into that!
umm....
All I am saying is that ALPINE makes great Type R subs which are available in both single and dual sub box styles... Look into that!
11-17-2003, 02:53 PM
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i second the infinity bass link if you want simple clean bass andyou can easily remove it. you will also need about 16' of 8 gauge power wire, 4' ground wire, 16' of remote wire, inline adaptor (if your keeping stock hu) adn misc. rings and adaptors
11-17-2003, 05:09 PM
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i'm with everyone on the JL bandwagon...
i have to say, for the money, that my jl 12w3s hit way harder than my alpine 12 Rs....i found that the Rs were tame...
running an alpine mrv 1005 = 600w bridged rms
i have to say, for the money, that my jl 12w3s hit way harder than my alpine 12 Rs....i found that the Rs were tame...
running an alpine mrv 1005 = 600w bridged rms
11-18-2003, 01:12 AM
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Originally posted by ju5tchi11in
yeah but how do you wire the battery to the amp?? what is needed? that is my question... A/V forum is dead.
yeah but how do you wire the battery to the amp?? what is needed? that is my question... A/V forum is dead.
11-18-2003, 09:56 PM
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you can pick one up at any car audio/generic electronic shop...stinger efx, rockford, etc.
wiring kits usually tell you what wattage rms they can handle up to eg. 600w - 1000w....go for as close to 4 gauge wiring as you can....
a good install is EVERYTHING when it comes to car audio...a crap-ass install can potentially ruin your setup...
good luck
wiring kits usually tell you what wattage rms they can handle up to eg. 600w - 1000w....go for as close to 4 gauge wiring as you can....
a good install is EVERYTHING when it comes to car audio...a crap-ass install can potentially ruin your setup...
good luck
11-18-2003, 11:53 PM
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Originally posted by Van-CL
you can pick one up at any car audio/generic electronic shop...stinger efx, rockford, etc.
wiring kits usually tell you what wattage rms they can handle up to eg. 600w - 1000w....go for as close to 4 gauge wiring as you can....
a good install is EVERYTHING when it comes to car audio...a crap-ass install can potentially ruin your setup...
good luck
you can pick one up at any car audio/generic electronic shop...stinger efx, rockford, etc.
wiring kits usually tell you what wattage rms they can handle up to eg. 600w - 1000w....go for as close to 4 gauge wiring as you can....
a good install is EVERYTHING when it comes to car audio...a crap-ass install can potentially ruin your setup...
good luck
11-19-2003, 12:58 AM
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Originally posted by ju5tchi11in
should I get at kit that can handle more power than my amp is? and what about 0 gauge wiring? is that any good? I know the lower the gauge the more wattage they can handle correct?
should I get at kit that can handle more power than my amp is? and what about 0 gauge wiring? is that any good? I know the lower the gauge the more wattage they can handle correct?
11-19-2003, 08:10 PM
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I would steer away from 0 gauge wire..... if you don't know how to run it properly it'll be the hardest thing ever to hide the wire well. Or youll end up having huge bumps in your carpet that look bad.
12-07-2003, 08:29 PM
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you da one that said yams
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i wouldnt go with anything smaller than four gauge wire but you wont need zero. im running four gauge with 750-1000 watt amp on a jl 15w3 with no problems. id also recommend getting a 1 farad cap if your amp is close to 1000 watts. it'll keep your amp running alot more stable and help with the sound of the sub
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