vtec 3.0....i need help!!
vtec 3.0....i need help!!
Okay so i was driving and my car stopped accelerating after 3 and a half rpm!! i pulled over and waited for a while and then everything seemed to be doing fine. When i got home i checked out the engine light and it sed that my vtec rear is at a failure. Now my car is driving even better without the vtec kicking in. Is it alright if i just leave it like this or is there a way of actually taking the vtec completely out? The dealer wants me to replace my vtec for $2150. I SED FUK U!!! help me out guys!!
never take it to a dealership, they blow and will rip you at whatever they can. I went in once just for fun to see how much they'd charge to install an intake, and they said $300 and the time would be around 2 1/2 to 3 hours. HAHA....i was like, really that long, and they were like yea.....i was like, it took my friend and I 30min to install it, can I work here......hahaha
the vtec may be covered under the extended warrenty
check it out and give them your vin and see what you can get done for free
are you sure its the vtec going out?
do you have a check engine light on?
ABS light on?
did you have codes pulled to see what it is?
check it out and give them your vin and see what you can get done for free
are you sure its the vtec going out?
do you have a check engine light on?
ABS light on?
did you have codes pulled to see what it is?
damn that VTEC!!! :P
I'm sure it's giving more power, but I'd be afraid that without it it might run to lean and you'll detonate the engine.. which would be VERY bad... I suggest you get it checked out ASAP.
I'm sure it's giving more power, but I'd be afraid that without it it might run to lean and you'll detonate the engine.. which would be VERY bad... I suggest you get it checked out ASAP.
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2K sounds more like a complete rebuild. i think theres a vtec cam controller on the engine. ill look for my service manual and see what its exactly called. it doesent cost 2k tho. ill let u know to morrow. i dont think it will hurt the car to run w/o vtec for a little while until u get it fixed. if its not activated its not compensating for anything(burning rich, advancing timing) so basically ur driving a regular car....kind of...ill let u know.
ok there is a thing called a vtec pressure switch.. first the book tells u to clear all the codes. u do this by eather disconnecting the battery for like 15 minutes. or with a scan tool. since u prolly dont have a scan tool just disconnect the battery. make sure u have ur radio code first.
re-connect the battery and start the car... let it get to normal operating temp and go for a drive in 1st gear over 4000rpm for atleast 2 seconds. if the check engine light doesent come on do the 4000 rpm thing 2 more times. if the light still doesent come on the book says its an intermittant failure and its ok.
if it does come back on get an ohmeter and test the terminals on the pressure switch for ohm. it doesent specify the resistance so as long as theres any resistance its good. there should only be two prongs on the switch. if there is no continuity or 0 ohm the book says replace the switch.
if there is resistance on the switch the book says to check for voltage on the other end of the connector. the part u unplug that goes to the main wiring harness. it says check the #1 pin which is the one closest to the connector lock and the body ground. so positive + (red) to the #1 pin and black - the chassy anywhere. if there is no voltage check for broken wire, which well get in to as the problem occurrs. let me know what u come up with on the switch or just reseting the battery. holla back.
re-connect the battery and start the car... let it get to normal operating temp and go for a drive in 1st gear over 4000rpm for atleast 2 seconds. if the check engine light doesent come on do the 4000 rpm thing 2 more times. if the light still doesent come on the book says its an intermittant failure and its ok.
if it does come back on get an ohmeter and test the terminals on the pressure switch for ohm. it doesent specify the resistance so as long as theres any resistance its good. there should only be two prongs on the switch. if there is no continuity or 0 ohm the book says replace the switch.
if there is resistance on the switch the book says to check for voltage on the other end of the connector. the part u unplug that goes to the main wiring harness. it says check the #1 pin which is the one closest to the connector lock and the body ground. so positive + (red) to the #1 pin and black - the chassy anywhere. if there is no voltage check for broken wire, which well get in to as the problem occurrs. let me know what u come up with on the switch or just reseting the battery. holla back.
what happenned to me is that i can't rev pass 3500 rpm....if i try...the engine shakes... if your does the same thing.. it's probably the V-tec solelinger (i think that's how you spell it).... if it is that prob.. its okay to drive but try not to exceed 55 mph cuz you can make it even worse.
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IBankMouse
1G TSX (2004-2008)
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Jun 13, 2020 12:53 PM


