i have a automatic 98 cl 3.0 and i was wondering what can i do performance wise to make my car fast i see that they make a s/c for a 00-03 but i wanted to know what can i do to make it HAUL ASS!

 

supercharger and nitrous.

 

there are lots of things, but they don't make superchargers or turbo kits for our 3.0CL's.

I highly suggest you do a search on this. use the search function adn try these words: "headers" "intake" "nitrous" ""exhaust". that's about all you can put on this car, the rest (SC and turbo) woudl all have to be custom.

 

u can get the comptech supercharger for the 98-02 accord auto. thier pretty expensive tho. bout 4g's

 

they go for about 2500 used on the forums and over at v6performance.net

 

doesn't know what he's talking about. First get a Dr.evil tranny, then go with everything else.

 

Werd..If you put a supercharger or nos in that 3.0 the car will fly of the chassis and leave the tranny behind

 

werd

 

werd x3

 

werd xINFINITY+1

 

i'm on my 4th tranny.....

do sumtin bout your weakest link....I believe the guy out in North Carolina that holds the record for the fastest 1st gen went through 8 trannies spraying with his 125 shot... his name was 98fastvtec or sumtin

 

now 8 trannies, that's respectable.

 

Honestly, on our 3.0's bolt-on's aren't that bad of a route. Pullies and Headers make huge gains, Intake and exhaust not so much. There's some power to be made with a tuned V-AFC. Check out v6performance.net, some of the guys there are making some nice numbers without forced induction on their J30 (in the Honda Accord). Dyno's in the 190's at the wheels are not that uncommon over there. Some all-motor mods to consider:

Intake (I'm not really a big CAI rules over all, short ram is fine imo)

Headers (big gains, megan headers are like 200-something and are supposedly good quality)

Exhaust (Custom made, get mandrel bent and not to big, Magnaflow is a reccomend muller)

Pullies (Megan Pullies are a good very cheap alternative, but the UR ones are the lightest, you can get the AEM under-driven alternator and a/c pully too)

V-AFC (After i/h/e/p, this will give you some decent power across the power band)

Throttle-Body Spacer (helps air circulation, will give you a couple of horsepower)

Ground Wires (Like Throttle-Body Spacer, this won't give really big gains but it will free up a couple of horsepower)

But, honestly this list of bolt-ons is more for the person that hooks their car up because they like working on the car and it's their hobby. If you're the type that cares about the horsepower per dollar ratio just get an intake, a good tranny cooler, and a 75 shot of nitrous. You can Headers and exhaust if you wish as well.


If you're a baller and want some magazine-feature type of sh*t and are not into doing the complicated swap ideas that are out there you should
1. Get your tranny upgraded by either Dr. Evil or another reputable company.
2. Decide between a custom turbo set-up or the comptech supercharger. A used CT supercharger would probably be my choice. You can also throw in the high-boost pulley to boot.

Best, safest, and most affordable way of making our 3.0's competitive against other imports.

 

ive been looking alot into the comptech s/c....but im also wanna talk to a shop about doing a custom turbo setup....in car shows a custom trubo aor s/c setup will always get you more points.

how much does the dr eveil tranny run? and is it auto or stick? anybody got specs or a website on it?

 

http://www.turbo-kits.com/accord_turbo_kits.html

 

no S/Cs for the 2.2

 

No, but you can get a turbo!

 

 

I've looked into it. I've decided agains the H22 swap and decided to go turbo. Very expensive though.

 

oh ya very expensive

but if you go turbo dont u have to do work to the engine, like internals and stuff so it can take high psi

....i dont know anything about engines??

 

I heard it can take 7 psi or so on stock internals....We have an iron block (or something like that) as opposed to alluminum, which is better for turbo.

 

alright...

 

Ripp engineering has been looking into making a kit for the v6 accord/cl i've talked to the guy personally he plans use a vortech v-5 g trim lie the rest of his kits. only problem is hes not going to do it unless he gets some guys together who will make a commitment to buy once its done.

 

Turbo on an H-series?

It's not a matter of how much psi the block can withstand. What matters is how well the motor is tuned. What makes it worse are the pistons weak ringlands. Even at 7 psi, people have had their ringlands crack or shatter. It's not worth turbo'ing the h22 if you don't have a built bottom end to support the added pressure. That's why, for any of you that decide to go turbo on an H-series, I strongly recommend that you build the bottom end. Of course it'll cost a little bit more, but when you're serious about power (assuming the main reason why you're turbo'ing the h22), you must think about how reliable you'd like your motor to be. By building your bottom end, not only it'll be safer than boosting on the stock block, you can also boost more. So in the long run, you'll only benifit from it. Just think of it as insurance. Also, have the motor tuned well.

 

I meant turbo the F22/3. People say the F22 is more turbo friendly than the H22.

 

dont overlook the fact that the f22 is capable of way more power than the f23 turbo'd

 

Are you serious?

 

Why? Cause of the lower compression?

 

get zex dry cheap on ebay and great power and it is fairly safe if installed right

 

werd ^^


2.2 has lower compression.. yeah.. more boost.. what... the difference is like 50-60 more hp

 

What's with everyone having the same avatar?

 

i dont think we have iron blocks. the only iron block i ever heard of was the one they put in the Pontiac Fiero 4cyl. we may have an engine thats cast from a stronger aluminum based alloy than the H22 but i doubt its pure iron. that sumbitch would be heavier than fat guy with 20 cinder blocks tied around his waist.

but anyway back to topic. turboing can be done well with the right amount of money. and like homie said b4, if you dont build the rest of the block youll have rods flyin left and right. if you just want a little more getup, go with a fairly small turbo and set it to about 5 or 6 psi. but if you really wanna dust some mofos, get a twin setup with dual side mount ICs. and all that other good stuff like timers, controllers, wastegates, etc. then have the ports polished and run your exhaust straight down the middle. less bends=less chances to cause backpressure if done wrong.

and you WILL need a new tranny. my suggestion, a 6 spd MT with a stage 3 or 4 clutch kit and a lightweight flywheel will help it rev faster and give it a little more pep whether you turbo it or not.
NOTE: if you are going to drive this all the time id go with a stage 3 clutch bc stage 4 and up tend to have very harsh engagements and a fairly short life span(comparitively speaking of course.)

oh and you cant forget the big ass hood scoop. jk dont do that. a couple little vents for your ICs would be good enough.

 

ed died last week (red-cl) check the ramblings sticky

 

if youre talkin about the RIP Red-CL. a 2nd gen'er died a few days ago and everyone is showing how much he will be missed. he was a good guy. only natural that a guy like him would be missed.

EDIT: ya beat me to it shiny.

 

so on the f22 thing i think someone either at hondatech or accordinglydone.com has an f22 running like 14 psi cuz our compression is so damn low, but thats what i was thinking either try to get as much out of my f22 all motor but if its not what i want im gonna put stock pistons back in then tubo the bitch

 

 

with all the 's lately, this needs to be STICKIED PLEASE