Ok, who lives in the middle of nowhere like me? I would really like to get my car lowered, but dont know who would do it locally vs. driving all the way into Chicago. Any of you guys gone to local shops or just do it yourself? Better yet, anyone from IL reccomend a good place to get custom work done?

Its so frustrating around here, Im new to the area. I asked the local midas guy if he would do a custom cat-back for me, but he said, they dont do that there.

Any suggestions would be greatly APPRECIATED.

 

I live in the middle of nowhere and did a how to, hope this helps
"I did some searching before installing my springs and didnt find a how to and than someone wanted a how to on the CL site and i figured it might be helpful to you accord guys (suspension is almost exactly the same) so here goes.
I installed some eibach pro kits by myself and i def. recommend getting a friend to help you. I have a few pics but i dont know how helpful they will be
You will need:
-2 good jacks
-Assorted sockets and open ended wrenches (air tools if avail)
-Flashlight (very helpful when lining up holes)
-Spring Compressor
-Penetrating Oil
-Allen wrench that is included with tools in trunk
-Hammer (need a little persuation now and than)
1. Spray all bolts with penetrating oil the day before if possiable
2. Unbolt the upper strut bar under the hood (2 screws in each side and two in the middle - 12MM socket)
3. Jack up both front sides of the car (makes it easier to free strut from lower mounting piece)
4. Remove wheel on one side
5. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM maybe) (lower circle in pic)
6. Remove the mounting bolt that holds the strut to the bracket (upper circle in pic)
7. Remove the three nuts under the hood that hold the strut in (14MM)
8. The strut and spring should now drop out, if they dont keep wiggling it until the bottom of the strut is free from the mounting piece.
9. Now you will need to compress the top spring with your compressors. You will need to compress the fronts a lot more than the backs.
10. With the spring compressed, put the allen wrench in the end of the strut as show in the pic below.

11. Take an 14MM open ended wrench and remove the nut holding the top mount to the spring and shock.
12. The spring should now be free from the strut and you can slide your new spring over the strut.
Eibach on top, stock on bottom, lots of compressing on the old one
13. Compress the spring and put the top mount back on.
14. Using the allen wrench again, tighten the top nut.
15. Slide the assembly back in place and hand tighten the top three mounting nuts.
16. Put the bottom of the strut in the mounting bracket and tighten the bolt.
17. Replace the bottom mounting bolt and tighten.
18. Tighten the top nuts
19. Put the wheel back on
20. Do the same on the other side and lower the front
Results in the messy garage

21. Jack up both sides of the back of the car.
22. Remove one tire
23. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM, might be bigger)
23. Remove the two nuts on the top of the shock in the trunk (14MM)
24. Drop the assembly down, and once it clears the top hole put it all they way up to the top of the wheel well and bring the bottom out first. This took me a while to get out.
25. Compress the back spring, as you can see it doesnt need too much compressing

26. Using the allen wrech again remove the top mounting nut (14MM).
27. Slide the spring off (looking at how the bottom mount and top mounts are lined up) and put the new spring on. I didnt need to compress the back eibach, as you can see they are pretty much even in length. I put the compressed part of the spring towards the bottom. (stock is on bottom, eibach top)

28. When you go to put the top mount back on the shock and spring, make sure the top screw is inline with the very end of the spring on the bottom of the assembly. It is kind of hard to explain but if you look in the pic you will see the top mounting screw is inline with the very end of the coil. This is VERY important when remounting the assembly and cause me to remove it and start over

29. This part is a pain in the neck. Figure out a way to get the assembly back in the wheel well and lined up. Leave your self a lot of time for this one and i recommend puttting the top in first.
30. After you get the spring in place hand tighten the top nuts.
31. Than line up the bottom and put the bolt back in place.
32. Tighten the top mounting nuts.
33. Replace the wheel and move on to the other side.
Back after drop
BEFORE (not a great pic sorry)


AFTER Drop


Keep in mind i have never done this before so my instructions may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me. It did however take me the better part of the weekend and a lot of cursing but its done If you have it done expect to pay $140-150 to a local shop and around $240 at the dealer."

If you have any question or see any mistakes let me know Good luck

 

Very nice detail, I may give it a shot. However, Im still not sure with what you were trying to say about lining up the screw with the very end of the coil. Anyway, we'll see, maybe Ill give it a try. Thanks, very nice detailed instructions!

 

Thanks. When you actually take the spring assembly apart you will probably have a better idea of what i am talking about. If you look in the pic below you will see there is a screw sticking up on the top that is inline (actually in the pic it was alittle off so i fixed it) with the very end of the coil on the bottom of the assembly (there is alittle notch where the end of the spring will sit). If you dont have these lined up PERFECTLY you will NOT be able to put the assembly back on the car and it is a pain to remove and reassemble it Hopefully this cleared it up some but if it didnt just ask

 

Did you slide the Eibach's over the stock struts? Or did you get new ones? Ive heard KYB AGX are highly recommended with the Prokit. Would the directions be same/harder for the KYB's?? Thanks again!

 

Yup you just slide the springs over the stock struts. I would def. recommend getting some KYBs because my setup is kinda bouncy and i think im going to end up getting some new shocks soon which means im going to have to pull my whole suspension out again to do the shocks Yes, it will be just as easy to use aftermarket shocks, just make sure you move the bumpstops (little rubber things) from the stock shock to the after market ones

 

Im in Peoria and have everything you'll need.

Dont know how far that is for ya. But the offers there.

 

Its only about 100 miles from me here in Ottawa, IL. Ive been to Peoria a couple times. Maybe when I get my struts and springs Ill send a PM.
Is the Pro Kit with KYB AGX a nice ride? What do you personally recommend? I dont want to get crazy, I just want to make sure when I get 18's, they wont look stupid with all that wheel gap. Im not about slammin it to the ground like some civics that are out there.

I appreciate the offer!!!

 

Whats up guys? I used 1stgenCL's instructions to do it myself and the job came out great. The man saved me $150! But i did the install you are thinkig about, the KYB AGX's with the pro kit. Easy to install, and no camber kit needed. Saves you at least another $120. But yes, they have a great ride with adjustability at the turn of a knob. Firm to soft, it works great both ways. If i had to do it again however, i prob would have just put down the cash for a set of real coilovers. They have sets on ebay around $800-700 for the 94-97 accord that fit. I paid a little over 500 for my setup, but ride height is not adjustable, and the install is a little more demanding. If you have the $$$ go for it.

 

there's another way which is way easier. dont even need a spring compressor. What you do is you use a floor jack..place it under the rotor and jack up the whole suspension then use an allen wrench and whatever size your strut to the cap. slowly drop the rotor and the spring will just slide out. Putting the spring is just as easy...place the spring on the strut and jack up the rotor, move it in place while you'll doing it, then lock it in. done with one side.