When I installed my mb quart discus component speakers it seemed like the front door boot was actually a harness (additional wires could not be ran though). I just used the factory speaker wires and mounted the cross over in the doors (not the best way I know, but it works). I’m thinking about upgrading to the Qs and I would like to run heaver wire to both the 6” sub and tweeter running the wires to the trunk to mount the crossover. Is there an aftermarket boot that can accomplish this. Any pics would be great!!!!

Thanks!

 

aftermarket, not that i heard of

 

you can run it on the outside of the boot...thats what i did....or youll have to take you door panel off and use a clothes hanger to pull the wire into the inside..thatll require you tearing the boot a little to fit the hanger and wire in there

 

it can be done, get wire lube and an exacto blade and a coat hanger and chop sticks

 

I have an aftermarket boot in my door jam for better speaker wire. Ill see if I can get a pic tomorrow and show you, but it is just a regular rubber boot for the wire loom. It sucks that you cant run it through the existing wiring but it is because of the molex plugs that are used...

 

Chopsticks?

 

tmoth,,,

I take it you had to drill new holes for this? What was involed? Just wondering if this is something I want to tackle or if I should bring it to a sterio shop to have them just run the wires.....

Thanks

 

Yeah, we had to drill new holes. I had a buddy who works at a stereo help me, but it wasnt too difficult. We thought about drilling through the emptly plugs in the connector but we decided that it was a bad idea since he has seen people damaging them that way. It doesnt really look bad the way we did it, but it also doesnt look as clean as it could with running through the stock loom.

 

ya,, I would be driving the new speakers at 175W per side so I'd like to use some decent sized wire. Not even sure if there would be space in the stock boot for it..... The things we'll do for sound!!!!

 

175w for door speakers !?!??!

 

ya,, the MB Quart Qs can handle that with no prob. With all the bass pumping from the rear it's best to have more power in the front than the rear....

 

I have a CDT 3-way setup with custom kickpanels housing the tweet and a 5", and I have the 6" midbass in the door. I have 250watts running to each side. I also have a set of image enhancement tweets in the stock dash locations as well. They help to bring the soundstage up higher.

 

Oh, and I dont have any rear fill either. I am wanting to have two 10"s custom installed in the rear deck becuase Im SOO tired of the rattles I get from the trunk. I actually Sold my 15" XXX and am running with no bass right now

 

hehe, in the 300zx im only running JL's fronts, and i have 2 10's mounted right behind each person's head

 

There is no reason to run new wires to your MB Q's. The stock wire is plent big enough to run these speakers. And not just the speakers... But a pretty big amp also. Dude .... You're gonna fuq up your car. If you are not sure don't ask your friend. Ask a professional. EX: Your local car audio shop.
Your FACTORY wiring is PLENTY big enough for this job.!!

 

There a couple reasons I would upgrade the wiring... First if you have factory bose system then your speaker wires are being run through the factory amp. When you change them, you can run them where you want - be it the headunit or an amp. Also, the factory wiring is pretty small... probably adequete for a low amount of power, but any serious amps you might as well upgrade. Its stoopid to buy speakers, amps, headunits, etc. for several hundred (or thousand) dollars and have it running through cheap-ass factory speaker wiring.

 

How do you figure?

 

I'm not telling you what to do. I'm offering professional advice. I've been a professional car audio installer for 8 years. I'm not the best installer in the world. But I'm pretty damn awesome. Ive done lots of Honda's. CL's, TL's, S2000's... Hundreds of Honda's. The factory speaker wiring is plenty big enough. I have a '99 CL with factory BOSE. The sound clarity in it is outstanding. I know what I'm doing bro......

Bypass your BOSE amp. Are you still running your factory deck? Leave your wiring the way it is. In fact, Bose actually runs a lower impedence current through the factory wiring. This means higher resistance than you're looking to run with your aftermarket setup. Since you're looking to run a lower resistance... Why do you need bigger wire?

 

"Dude You're gonna fuq up your car..."

Why would you drill holes in your car if you didn't need to?

 

Yeah, I see where youre coming from. Although if you plan on pushing like 200 watts to each side I would still recommend running new wires. Just a basic speaker swap-out will work fine with the stock wiring...

 

In my Civic I've got MB Quart DSD216, 6.5 inch component speakers, in the front doors. Running them, I have a Phoenix Gold XS2500. A very large 2 channel amp. Total RMS output of that amp is 564 watts at 4ohms. Factory Wiring! 564 watts is way more power than you are looking at running to your fronts.
Just for example.... At work we carry a high performance multi-strand speaker wire. It has 8 separate conductors for 4 channel applications. It runs about $2.50 per foot. This wire is 16 gauge wire. The very same 16 gauge wire that Honda runs to every speaker in their cars. Same WIRE man!! The only time I would run fat wire is to a HIGH POWERED subwoofer. Even in that case a 200 watt RMS subwoofer is perfectly happy with 14 gauge wire. 14 gauge isn't much bigger that 16 gauge.
C'mon man. If you really want to drill holes in your car. Go ahead. Or if you want I can show you the holes that I drilled in my car. I wish that somebody would have explained this to me before I started boring holes in a $15,000 car.
Good luck on the install. Great pick on the speakers. MB Quart rules!!
P.S. The Referenz and Premium lines have ABS baskets. The Discus line is the only MB Quart line that has steel baskets. Use some kind of backing on your speaker. All Honda door seals leak. Thus... Your awesome speaker will be crazy rusted in no time!!
A plastic baffle will usually do the trick. Or even duct tape over the top half of the speaker will reflect most of the water running down the inside of your door.