remote start questions
11-28-2005 | 12:55 PM
#1
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remote start questions
hey everyone, I've been looking really hard for this one, and no one has helped me out with these questions.
First of all I am going to be installing a clifford matrix RSX3.5 Remote start in my 97 2.2 5MT.
So my first question is-
1. To bypass your stock alarm can't you just disconnect the whole thing and splice in to some of the wires for the aftermarket alarm?
2. I saw CLtech say there are 2 wires to splice together to bypass the clutch switch. Which two wires and where are they located?
3. If any of you have this same alarm and installed it themselves PM me, so I can know and if I have any questions while I install this I can get a hold of you. Thanx guys
First of all I am going to be installing a clifford matrix RSX3.5 Remote start in my 97 2.2 5MT.
So my first question is-
1. To bypass your stock alarm can't you just disconnect the whole thing and splice in to some of the wires for the aftermarket alarm?
2. I saw CLtech say there are 2 wires to splice together to bypass the clutch switch. Which two wires and where are they located?
3. If any of you have this same alarm and installed it themselves PM me, so I can know and if I have any questions while I install this I can get a hold of you. Thanx guys
11-29-2005 | 10:30 PM
#3
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no I got the directechs stuff. But I need the wiring diagram for the car as well. Because DEI isn't saying anything about bypassing a clutch wire. and that's my main concern. Do we have a chiltons or anything like that I can go pick up from my local shucks?
12-01-2005 | 01:50 PM
#5
'08 MX5 GT 6spd.
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From: The Lone Star State
if you dont already have the 3.5, go grab one of the 10.5's and throw remote start on it (about the same as a 3.5) or wait to ill the first of the year to get the one with remote start included.
12-01-2005 | 05:40 PM
#6
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yea I already have the 3.5. But what do I have to ground out for the stock alarm to be "None existant". I don't even want to unlock my doors with the stock alarm. I just want to pretty much have it all disconnected and splice in the wires I need from the stock harness to my alarm. So if anyone can help me I plan on doing it this weekend. Thanx for your help.
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12-02-2005 | 12:56 AM
#9
I'm a llama :(
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From: Washington
Originally Posted by InstallerJohn
okay- so I worked on my alarm today at work and here's how you can add a remote start and not have the stock alarm go off- or have to unlock the doors before you remote start it. There are two different methods- one keeps the stock alarm functioning the other doesn't.
Here they are-
1) To keep stock alarm- (you would want to do this if you were just adding a remote starter and not an alarm -or- you wanted to keep your door led and stock siren)
Use your (-) status output from your remote starter (this is the wire that goes to the bypass module) and take this to the dark blue wire on the larger of the two plugs on the stock alarm I don't know the pin number but, if you are looking at the plug as it is pulgged into the alarm it is the wire in the bottom row on the left. This is the disarm-no- unlock wire. you can test this wire by metering the voltage on the wire while someone turns the key to unlock in the drivers door. It will read ground when the key is turned to unlock.
Note: If you have trunk pop hooked up on your aftermarket alarm your stock alarm will go off when you pop it if you dont unlock the doors first. To alieviate this you can simply cut and tape up the trunkpin input on the stock alarm. The indicator light in the cluster will still function normally- you just wont have factory alarm protection on your trunk. The trunkpin wire is in the same plug as the disarm wire- but it is the lightgreen/ black wire in the top row on the far right. It will meter ground when the trunk is opened.
2) To completely eliminate the factory alarm from arming-
Cut the Trunkpin input (the wire described above) and take the alarm side of the wire and ground it- take the other side and tape it up. This makes the factory alarm think that the trunk is always open so it never arms. your factory siren wont work and the led wont light up. but, you wont have to worry about anything when you are remotestarting the vehicle.
Hope this helps everyone- I assume no responsiblity if you mess stuff up. If you dont feel comfortable doing this-dont. I haven't checked the price on a stock alarm recently, but I dont imagine they are cheap. But, if you do it right it will work- I have it done on mine and can vouch for it.
Here they are-
1) To keep stock alarm- (you would want to do this if you were just adding a remote starter and not an alarm -or- you wanted to keep your door led and stock siren)
Use your (-) status output from your remote starter (this is the wire that goes to the bypass module) and take this to the dark blue wire on the larger of the two plugs on the stock alarm I don't know the pin number but, if you are looking at the plug as it is pulgged into the alarm it is the wire in the bottom row on the left. This is the disarm-no- unlock wire. you can test this wire by metering the voltage on the wire while someone turns the key to unlock in the drivers door. It will read ground when the key is turned to unlock.
Note: If you have trunk pop hooked up on your aftermarket alarm your stock alarm will go off when you pop it if you dont unlock the doors first. To alieviate this you can simply cut and tape up the trunkpin input on the stock alarm. The indicator light in the cluster will still function normally- you just wont have factory alarm protection on your trunk. The trunkpin wire is in the same plug as the disarm wire- but it is the lightgreen/ black wire in the top row on the far right. It will meter ground when the trunk is opened.
2) To completely eliminate the factory alarm from arming-
Cut the Trunkpin input (the wire described above) and take the alarm side of the wire and ground it- take the other side and tape it up. This makes the factory alarm think that the trunk is always open so it never arms. your factory siren wont work and the led wont light up. but, you wont have to worry about anything when you are remotestarting the vehicle.
Hope this helps everyone- I assume no responsiblity if you mess stuff up. If you dont feel comfortable doing this-dont. I haven't checked the price on a stock alarm recently, but I dont imagine they are cheap. But, if you do it right it will work- I have it done on mine and can vouch for it.
12-02-2005 | 10:49 AM
#10
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how does that bypass the stock alarm, wouldn't I have to ground a lot more like door locks and hood pin, maybe even just pull the fuse for it. if I want to totally eliminate the stock alarm?
12-02-2005 | 05:15 PM
#12
I'm a llama :(
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From: Washington
Originally Posted by Bigpimpin18
how does that bypass the stock alarm, wouldn't I have to ground a lot more like door locks and hood pin, maybe even just pull the fuse for it. if I want to totally eliminate the stock alarm?
12-02-2005 | 09:01 PM
#13
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ok so let me get this cleared up. If I just ground the trunk pin input from the alarm and I use the trunk pin going in to my aftermarket alarm everything will be ok. The alarm wont ever arm or go off if I remote start and not even have to touch the stock alarm remote?
12-04-2005 | 11:57 AM
#14
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so today I was reading my install guide and I found out that there are two wires one was
(-)factory alarm rearm- This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start shuts down or the doors are locked. This can be used
to pulse the arm wire of the vehicle's factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to the arm wire.
the other wire is (+) Factory alarm disarm-This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start is activated or the doors are unlocked. This can be
used to pulse the disarm wire of the vehicle's factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to
the disarm wire.
Do you think I would need to hook these up instead of just grounding the hoodpin input wire?
(-)factory alarm rearm- This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start shuts down or the doors are locked. This can be used
to pulse the arm wire of the vehicle's factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to the arm wire.
the other wire is (+) Factory alarm disarm-This wire sends a negative pulse every time the remote start is activated or the doors are unlocked. This can be
used to pulse the disarm wire of the vehicle's factory anti-theft device. Use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse to
the disarm wire.
Do you think I would need to hook these up instead of just grounding the hoodpin input wire?
12-04-2005 | 12:12 PM
#17
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right now I'm just placing all of my sensors and my brain of my alarm, and routing my wires so it only takes about 30 minutes to do next time. not really hooking anything up yet, keeping the stock alarm on it tho.
12-04-2005 | 10:34 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by wakeboardfusion
Disarm No Unlock- blue (-) negitive wire at the security module
12-06-2005 | 03:37 PM
#28
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Hey I got another question for you. On the h1/3 (I think it is) It's a white blue wire for the remote start activation. Should I ground that or what should I do with that?
Waskeboard you have to mayn PM's ur soo popular, but I tried PMing you today except you have over the limit. It was going smooth until I had to stop and put everything back together before I go to work today!
Waskeboard you have to mayn PM's ur soo popular, but I tried PMing you today except you have over the limit. It was going smooth until I had to stop and put everything back together before I go to work today!
12-08-2005 | 10:51 AM
#31
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does any one know what I should do with this wire, here is the description of it
h1/10 white blue Remote start (-) activation input-
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate. The same holds true for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate.
NOTE : When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1, 2, or 3 pulses when changed
it will affect both activation inputs; the White/Blue wire and the remote control activation.
h1/10 white blue Remote start (-) activation input-
This input comes from the factory set to 2 activation pulses. This means that it is necessary to have 2 consecutive ground pulses on the white/blue wire for the remote start to activate or to deactivate. The same holds true for the remote control activation when set to a two pulse setting it is necessary to press the button twice for the remote start to activate or deactivate.
NOTE : When the activation pulse count can be programmed to 1, 2, or 3 pulses when changed
it will affect both activation inputs; the White/Blue wire and the remote control activation.
12-12-2005 | 01:51 PM
#33
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well I haven't worked on my alarm lately since it pissed me off so damn bad, but I hooked the green/black wire to the blue wire which i was told disarms the factory alarm. The next morning I came out and my stock alarm started going off after I disarmed my clifford. What happened here?
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