ismyswag

hey so i just bought a cl from delaware and i live in maryland. so when i go for the inspection i find out that i need a new rack and pinion because he said the part was leaking. I have never seen any fluids on the ground but i said ok ill trust him, hes a mechanic and im not so when i ask him what the estimate is he says about $400 for the part and another $400 for the installation. Do you guys know where i can find the part cheaper, even if its used and how much it is supposed to cost for the installation. thanks a lot. btw its a 97 2.2-- what year honda accord parts can i use?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

94-97 accord parts are interchangeable with your car, $400 seems a little steep on the labor, but most shops charge $50-75 an hour Welcome to the forum, I would try a junkyard or ebay

Cocoa

iTrader: (2)

I would take it to another mechanic to verify the problem. Maybe it's something as small as a seal.

Here is something I found on another site:

TEST DRIVE
If everything passes a visual test, take the vehicle on the road and see how it steers. Does the steering pull to either side? Is the amount of steering effort normal and the same in both directions? Is there any play or looseness in the steering wheel? Do the wheels re-center after turning? Any unusual noises?

If you find the steering pulls to one side while driving the vehicle, it might be due to an alignment problem or it might be due to a leaky spool valve that is routing pressure to one side of the rack.

If the steering feels stiff and requires a lot of effort, the rack piston seal may be leaking pressure or the pump may not be producing adequate pressure.

Normal operating pressures within a power rack generally do not exceed 150 psi when the wheels are straight ahead. In an easy turn, pressure can increase to 300 psi, and up to 700 psi in a tight turn. The highest pressures are usually encountered when parking. If the wheels are up against a curb or if the steering wheel is turned hard against the stop, it can climb to 700 to 2,000 psi depending on the application.

In vehicles that have "variable assist" power rack & pinion steering, maximum assist should be provided at low speed and taper off as the speed increases. If the control valve that shunts pressure sticks open, the rack may not have much assist at low speed.

Steering looseness and wander, when accompanied by a feathered toe wear pattern on the front tires, usually indicates worn inner sockets and/or outer tie rod ends that need replacing.

If the steering is slow to return or "sticks" when turning to either side, it may indicate binding or corrosion in the flexible coupling in the steering input shaft, or rusted or worn upper MacPherson strut mounts.

Steering wander and looseness can be caused by play in the rack, rack mounts or steering linkage (worn tie rod ends or sockets). The dry park check we described earlier should help you isolate the cause of the looseness

Any similar symptoms? What condition did you buy the car in? Honestly, unless you have a reputable shop to go to, I would double check everything that a mechanic tells you (no offense, but they'll take advantage of your age/gender). I say this, because I've known shady mechanics.

Here's the site to the rack and pinion diagnosis.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf20340.htm

Welcome to the boards btw. If you have basic questions on modding, you can find most of your answers in the FAQ thread stickied at the top.

ismyswag

thanks a lot guys appreciate the answers. He told me it was just a leak but ill have it checked by another mechanic. thanks a lot