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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 08:09 PM
  #281  
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Do any of u guys know if that guy who put in the rsx cluster has any pics? jw if it cud def be done and the diy for it if u even need one for it. thanks!
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 09:51 PM
  #282  
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From: ShitsBurgh
Bump his thread and ask him there, he hasn't been back in a long time
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Old Sep 27, 2009 | 10:52 PM
  #283  
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gahhh lame! my cluster is messed up and i constantly come across rsx clusters for cheap.
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #284  
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does anyone know for sure if the F22 manifold is different from F23?
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 09:45 PM
  #285  
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intake or exhaust manifold?
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Old Sep 28, 2009 | 10:12 PM
  #286  
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exhaust, sorry
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #287  
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Anyone know what kind of voltage the factory Acura electrical system can take? I'm looking at an externally regulated alternator for my system build, and I was wondering how high I'll be able to run the voltage up before the car starts freaking out... I know some older Chevy's would take like 15.5 volts through the factory system with no problems, just wondering what the top limit is for the 1st Gen CL...
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 11:21 PM
  #288  
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no need to say sorry bro lol. hmm it should be the same why do u need to know? jw
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #289  
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lookin at some turbo stuff from a guy around here, but his manifold is for an F22
from what i've found the F22B exhaust ports are the same as F23 but the F22A's are closer together
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 03:14 PM
  #290  
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From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by mattastick
Anyone know what kind of voltage the factory Acura electrical system can take? I'm looking at an externally regulated alternator for my system build, and I was wondering how high I'll be able to run the voltage up before the car starts freaking out... I know some older Chevy's would take like 15.5 volts through the factory system with no problems, just wondering what the top limit is for the 1st Gen CL...
My alt/battery run at 14.75
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #291  
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
My alt/battery run at 14.75
That's very nice to know... Anyone else have any high voltage experience in the CLs?
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 09:21 PM
  #292  
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Originally Posted by South Jersey CL
yeah i want to take a vid, problem is i dont have a camera. i took it out to a mercedes benz club autox a couple weeks ago, and it was a lot of fun. the avg on the course was 42 and my best was 47.7 (it was my first time autox-ing too). i got a ride in someone's 65 shelby cobra 427...holy hell, my heart didnt beat the entire time. it was hella fast and balls ass loud. im gonna try to get a cheap camera mount and just borrow a camera next time i go out.

as far as your question goes, i think the ebrake is a completely separate rotor, so i dont think it'd warp the rear rotors. im just guessing though i could be wrong.
Sounds awesome man, did you autox at stock heigth?

Thanks for your response but can someone please confirm that the ebrake is on a separate rotor?

Also, another question..
If you put together a turbo kit, but something goes wrong (with the turbo, piping, bov, dumpvalve, leak, etc) will the car be driveable and the only problem is that the turbo won't work? Or will it mess up your engine?
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #293  
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It depends what goes wrong with it, but you could potentially blow your engine
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 07:36 PM
  #294  
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arent LEDs supposed to last longer then halogens? my passenger side parking LED just burned out. pisses me off because its the 3rd light to burn out on me this month.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 07:09 PM
  #295  
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serious question.

My car is squealin like crazy. its kind of a grindy squeal, it happens when im driving, but when i hit the brakes, the squeal is replaced with a hissing noise. all this seems to be coming from the driver side rear brakes.

So im guessing this is a brake issue? im taking the car in next monday, but what should i expect the diagnosis to be? i have a feeling it may be a warped rotor.

thoughts? plz and thank you.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #296  
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also it whines when im in reverse, in addition the the current normal whining.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #297  
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From: ShitsBurgh
siezed caliper? How's your brake pressure?
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 11:29 PM
  #298  
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i'd put my money on seized caliper..

just did my brothers pads on his accord and replaced a rear caliper due to a "a grinding/whining noise" ..caliper ended up being seized and no more noises at all
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 11:41 PM
  #299  
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brake pressure? i feel i have to press on the brakes a little bit more to get the same stopping as normal
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 08:24 AM
  #300  
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From: ShitsBurgh
Yep, siezed caliper
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:07 AM
  #301  
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is that the cause of the backward whining too?
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:47 AM
  #302  
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:18 AM
  #303  
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awesome, thanks alot guys. she's going to the shop on monday.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:54 AM
  #304  
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From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by mattastick
That's very nice to know... Anyone else have any high voltage experience in the CLs?
Oh, forgot to mention that the alt runs through the fuse box, so I'm running almost 15 volts through the 12 volt fuse box
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 11:59 PM
  #305  
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couldn't find this in a search, even though i'm sure i've seen this asked, and i'm pretty sure it wouldn't work...but to be sure would 97+ prelude suspension fit our car?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 08:27 AM
  #306  
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From: ShitsBurgh
nope
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #307  
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
Oh, forgot to mention that the alt runs through the fuse box, so I'm running almost 15 volts through the 12 volt fuse box
Come on Chris. You know the math. When voltage increases, current decreases. So, while yes you're running the higher 15v, your current output is less, and that's what's saving the fuses.

And I know that the alt runs into the fusebox. My fusebox has 1/0 from the alt running into and out of it. See:

1/0 ring terminals going into the fuse box:


Damn, I guess that's the only pic I have of it... But yeah, 1/0 from the alt to the fuse box...
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #308  
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From: ShitsBurgh
I know man, I've seen your pics, I did the same thing with 4 Gauge, was just sayin the car can handle some power
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:25 PM
  #309  
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL
I know man, I've seen your pics, I did the same thing with 4 Gauge, was just sayin the car can handle some power
Cool, thanks. That's what I needed to know... If I were to turn the voltage up to like right at 15v, do you think the fuses would blow before that kind of voltage wen through them and onto the 12v electronics after them? I'm mainly worried about the necessary stuff like ECU and those goodies...
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #310  
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I'm getting ready to refinish by bumper cover, and need to strip the paint off of it. Whats the fastest and most effective way to do this?
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 01:27 AM
  #311  
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so anyone here running DC headers?? i have an crack in my headers and its an opportunity to upgrade to some nice headers!! so if anybody has DC headers can you let me know what i'm looking at cost wise? my tech said he might be able to get me a discount so i'm crossing my fingers for that..TIA
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #312  
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^^^ dude don't waste your money just put the stock exhaust manifold back on. I have a dc header didnt notice anything really kinda just bought it for looks and amazing price ($50) and that one even had a crack in the weld. just my two cents.
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #313  
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Speaking of cracks in headers, how can it be fixed? Or would it be a better idea just to replace the headers? I discovered why my engine bay was so damn loud..
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 09:41 PM
  #314  
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tig weld^
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 10:22 PM
  #315  
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Originally Posted by 1slo23
I'm getting ready to refinish by bumper cover, and need to strip the paint off of it. Whats the fastest and most effective way to do this?
edit- reason I ask is because I wanted to avoid paint stripper, I was told it might damage the bumper cover? Sounds crazy, but I want to be sure
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 11:02 PM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by f22vtec
^^^ dude don't waste your money just put the stock exhaust manifold back on. I have a dc header didnt notice anything really kinda just bought it for looks and amazing price ($50) and that one even had a crack in the weld. just my two cents.
thanks for the input..i'll see what kind of pricing i can get from my tech and if i can get a good price then i'll just get the DC headers if not then i'll just ask him to get me OEM.
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 08:45 AM
  #317  
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From: ShitsBurgh
Originally Posted by 1slo23
edit- reason I ask is because I wanted to avoid paint stripper, I was told it might damage the bumper cover? Sounds crazy, but I want to be sure
sander
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 09:35 PM
  #318  
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Okay I looked at the blackhouse DIY thread and stil can't figure out how to get off my front bumper, I took off all of the screws and crap from the bottom, and sides, it wiggles like crazy, but I see there are plastic rivets located directly under the headlights and I can't pop them up, not enough space without damaging the lights, and I want to sell the lights!!
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Old Oct 12, 2009 | 11:58 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by Gnate
Okay I looked at the blackhouse DIY thread and stil can't figure out how to get off my front bumper, I took off all of the screws and crap from the bottom, and sides, it wiggles like crazy, but I see there are plastic rivets located directly under the headlights and I can't pop them up, not enough space without damaging the lights, and I want to sell the lights!!
If you really did take out all the bolts, just sit on it, give it a little force, and it should pop off.
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 03:20 AM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by f22vtec
^^^ dude don't waste your money just put the stock exhaust manifold back on. I have a dc header didnt notice anything really kinda just bought it for looks and amazing price ($50) and that one even had a crack in the weld. just my two cents.
or get an ebay header.
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