Question and Answer Thread

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Jul 12, 2009 | 12:30 AM
  #81  
^ acuraoemparts.com is the other one i think
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Jul 12, 2009 | 01:02 AM
  #82  
thanks guys!
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Jul 14, 2009 | 12:20 PM
  #83  
another quickie! Will the steering wheel from 98-02 accord fit a CL? Or will a 94-95 accord or the 2nd gen Cl? I don't need to worry about the airbag that's fine I just need the wheel that you hold. I found it at those oem part places but they want almost $350 for it!! I found one used on eBay but it was the wrong color. I need a grey steering wheel.
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Jul 14, 2009 | 01:34 PM
  #84  
Not 100% sure about the 98-02 accord wheels, but a 2nd gen TL/CL/MDX wheel will fit, as long as you have a 98-99 you won't need a different airbag, the airbags for the 97's are different

DIY and my 97 conversion write-ups here
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-diy-faq-74/1st-gen-cl-steering-wheel-diy-w-pics-486041/
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Jul 14, 2009 | 02:46 PM
  #85  
OK thanks! Real quick confirmation though. I found and 03-06 MDX steering wheel in the color I need on ebay are you sure that will fit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-06...ayphotohosting
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Jul 14, 2009 | 03:25 PM
  #86  
am I insane asking 5k for my car?
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Jul 14, 2009 | 05:38 PM
  #87  
Quote: OK thanks! Real quick confirmation though. I found and 03-06 MDX steering wheel in the color I need on ebay are you sure that will fit?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-06...ayphotohosting
I hope this wheel fits cause I just bought it for $45 plus shipping. I'm sure it will though. I would've loved to have gotten one of those wheels with the perforated leather those are sexy!

Actually this wheel looks like it might be perforated, it's just really hard to tell with the crappy picture.
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Jul 14, 2009 | 07:15 PM
  #88  
Quote: am I insane asking 5k for my car?
nah. i told a friend id easily sell my car to him for 5k
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Jul 14, 2009 | 08:31 PM
  #89  
Another n00b question. How often do you have to change your spark plugs?
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Jul 14, 2009 | 08:52 PM
  #90  
I'm about to swap in some LEDs for the gauges, can i get a blue incandescent 74 at pep boys? i'm gonna be driving around all day tomorrow and figure I might as well stop and get one if they have them
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Jul 14, 2009 | 10:04 PM
  #91  
I'd call them or check their website and see if they carry it
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Jul 15, 2009 | 12:57 AM
  #92  
Quote: I'm about to swap in some LEDs for the gauges, can i get a blue incandescent 74 at pep boys? i'm gonna be driving around all day tomorrow and figure I might as well stop and get one if they have them
no. ive gone to pep boys and looked for a red one cause i did the same swap. couldnt find a red or blue 74. i eventually gave up and colored a clear one with a red sharpie. turned out fine.
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Jul 15, 2009 | 07:52 AM
  #93  
Quote: am I insane asking 5k for my car?
You're not insane to ask that but with your car I would expect someone to ask you to lower the price if their interested =)
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Jul 15, 2009 | 08:31 AM
  #94  
Quote: am I insane asking 5k for my car?
Not with the low miles that you have
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Jul 15, 2009 | 08:32 AM
  #95  
Quote: I hope this wheel fits cause I just bought it for $45 plus shipping. I'm sure it will though. I would've loved to have gotten one of those wheels with the perforated leather those are sexy!

Actually this wheel looks like it might be perforated, it's just really hard to tell with the crappy picture.
Not sure about the years, but it looks just like the one I have
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Jul 15, 2009 | 12:18 PM
  #96  
anyone have a video of a 2.x third-fourth gear pull from about 50-110?

aside from this one

very specific I know
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Jul 16, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #97  
oh and blackack can you unlock my crossroads thread for now?
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Jul 16, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #98  
Do you guys think that USfidelis extended warrenty thing is worth it since our 3.0 trannys break? I'm at 117k now and it shifts great but not sure how long that will last..
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Jul 16, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #99  
Quote: Do you guys think that USfidelis extended warrenty thing is worth it since our 3.0 trannys break? I'm at 117k now and it shifts great but not sure how long that will last..
absolutely NOT. US Fidelis is a scam, they'll find any excuse to get out of paying your repairs. multiple class action suits and complaints have been filed against them.

http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...4/fidelis.html

dont even think about getting one.
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Jul 16, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #100  
I looked into a bunch of different warranty groups. Every single one of them sounded good until you read in depth. The way that they get you is excluding a whole lot of small parts, but more so by only paying for things they consider "failure" - not anything that can be due to "wear and tear". And they consider everything wear and tear.
I've heard very few stories of people actually getting their money's worth, and they had either a nice hookup with a mechanic or a lucky break with something that truly "failed" without any signs of wear.
For the average customer, it's not worth the pen you sign it with, which is how all those companies make their money.
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Jul 16, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #101  
Yeah, I kinda figured it was too good to be true. Then everyone would probably be insuring their trannys haha. Thanks guys.
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Jul 17, 2009 | 08:09 AM
  #102  
I forgot what warranty I bought one time. I can't even remember what car (maybe my old 97 CL before I wrecked it) I some how managed to get a good company (or lucky) and I made my money back in about half the time of the warranty's duration.

I brought the car home and starter literally died in the next day and the warranty hadn't kicked in yet we talked to them some and they ended up covering it, they also replaced my alternator shortly after full coverage. I don't even remember all the specifics but I remember adding things up in my head and making my money back.

I can't remember the company or anything but I think it was 1000 for a 1 year warranty maybe a 2 year. I only had the car for 6months.

I do imagine my situation was rare and I've never bought another 3rd party extended warranty since. I mean these companies are a business and they obviously make money (and not from shelling out more than warranty cost very often)
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Jul 17, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #103  
Is there any such thing as a oil system flush to help get more deposits out then just a fluid change?
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Jul 17, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #104  
^ No, however you can run extra quarts through on the drain and fill, the other option is seafoaming and putting seafoam in the crankcase before an oil change
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Jul 17, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #105  
I foamed before my last change it was the dino to syn switch. I've got about 4k on it right now and it looks fairly dark. I'll have to pay closer attention after the next change to see what it looks like after a few heat cycles. Need to make sure I get a HQ filter too.
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Jul 18, 2009 | 03:30 PM
  #106  
Has anyone used a trunk mount bike rack on their car? My gf and I are headed on a road trip down the west coast in a couple weeks and we want to take our bikes with us, I can't seem to find out for sure if they will work on our cars and I'm concerned that it wouldn't work with the spoiler, although I suppose I could just take the spoiler off for the trip. Thanks in advance
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Jul 18, 2009 | 10:17 PM
  #107  
my doctor has a 97 CL (no spoiler) and uses a bike rack all the time.
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Jul 18, 2009 | 11:24 PM
  #108  
Anybody have any idea how difficult it is to swap a K engine into a 94-97 accord or obviously a CL? There must be a ton of engine bay room once its completed.

Anybody every see someone who's had it done? I'm really curious, i've been driving my dad's civic Si around down here in FL and the engine is so sweet. (minus lack of torque) but it definitely moves and sounds sick.

hmotors onlien sells the type r k20 with 220HP and 158ftlbs i think, that woudl def make a CL move, but obviously the k24 bottom would be better.
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Jul 19, 2009 | 12:20 AM
  #109  
Quote: Anybody have any idea how difficult it is to swap a K engine into a 94-97 accord or obviously a CL? There must be a ton of engine bay room once its completed.

Anybody every see someone who's had it done? I'm really curious, i've been driving my dad's civic Si around down here in FL and the engine is so sweet. (minus lack of torque) but it definitely moves and sounds sick.

hmotors onlien sells the type r k20 with 220HP and 158ftlbs i think, that woudl def make a CL move, but obviously the k24 bottom would be better.
id like to say it isnt that hard since you would need to purchase the motor mounts and then figure out the wiring, but im assuming its harder than h22 and those are sometimes a pain in the ass, so it seems to end up being a headache
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Jul 19, 2009 | 01:47 AM
  #110  
Quote: Anybody have any idea how difficult it is to swap a K engine into a 94-97 accord or obviously a CL? There must be a ton of engine bay room once its completed.

Anybody every see someone who's had it done? I'm really curious, i've been driving my dad's civic Si around down here in FL and the engine is so sweet. (minus lack of torque) but it definitely moves and sounds sick.

hmotors onlien sells the type r k20 with 220HP and 158ftlbs i think, that woudl def make a CL move, but obviously the k24 bottom would be better.
There's a motor mount kit for the accord/cl so it shouldn't be that bad, my gf has a k24 and I whip that bitch around like a go-cart, not bad for a 4 banger
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Jul 19, 2009 | 01:49 AM
  #111  
I just woner about the wiring. aren't the readouts digital on the cars that have the k20s in them?
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Jul 19, 2009 | 09:53 AM
  #112  
Quote: I just woner about the wiring. aren't the readouts digital on the cars that have the k20s in them?
do an s2k dash conversion while your at it? lol
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Jul 20, 2009 | 02:56 PM
  #113  
I have two questions
1. my clutch pedal has play before and after engagement basically the clutch engages fully and I only have to push the pedal half way down. Is that normal??? btw I just replaced the clutch and the flywheel... 2k miles on the new setup
2. the reason I replaced my clutch was because it was chattering. the new one has been doing the same thing from the getgo esep while the a/c is on during the day
could this be because of a bad motor mount or is my clutch a pos
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Jul 20, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #114  
Hmmm... another random question. What saves the tranny more in autos, D3 or D4. (around city up to 45mph of course)
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Jul 20, 2009 | 05:44 PM
  #115  
D4 id think D3 is for going up hills n shit.
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Jul 20, 2009 | 05:54 PM
  #116  
anyone????
pleaseeee help me
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Jul 20, 2009 | 06:46 PM
  #117  
Question; Tein Basics or f&f type 1 coil-overs, I think the obvious is type1(maybe) but what do you guys think?
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Jul 22, 2009 | 07:24 AM
  #118  
I tired popping the tabs of the rear fender liner but I couldn't get it to come out. The flat head I was using was potentially a little large. I could get it in until it couldn't slide any farther though and when trying to pry it out the piece just bent and didn't pop out. Wouldn't it be better to get something that can get under the tabs from both sides and pop them straight out?
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Jul 22, 2009 | 09:34 AM
  #119  
Quote: D4 id think D3 is for going up hills n shit.
Quote: Question; Tein Basics or f&f type 1 coil-overs, I think the obvious is type1(maybe) but what do you guys think?
F&F ofter adjustable shocks, but the basics have a nice smooth feel so you don't need the adjustable shock really, however between the 2 I'd probably go f&f
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Jul 23, 2009 | 08:17 AM
  #120  
So I have a question..Did alot of searching b4 but couldnt get an exact answer...Will the chrome trim on auto shifter for 98/99 cl fit around our 97ers?
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