Fellas I wanna slap on a Prokit next week. What did you guys pay and are you on a camber kit for the 1.4 in drop?
Thanks Oponions more than welcome....I want to do it right

 

Most likely you will not need a camber kit fot the Pro-Kit (I didn't).


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2422038608

 

I'm selling mine if you're interested. 100 plus shipping .

 

yours seems pretty low w/ pro kit... err i shoulda get pro kit i scrap to much shiit

 

my car dropped about 2" with prokits. i dont need a camber kit. after 5000 miles there has been no significant wear.







bumper sits bout 5" off the ground. with the koni yellows set on the lower perchit sat about 4" and my wheels were like this /----\

 

hey vx

u saying that the prokits alone
gave u a 2inch drop,

i got prokits too and kyb
and my car sits about the same height
as yours

 

If you have soft tires you will need a camber kit. If you have stock tires it's debatable. Its debatable because most people do not realize how unstable their cars are without a camber kit until they get one... its not only tire wear that is affected.

 

hey jamolie where is collegedale man in tn cause i live in knoxville anyways you selling the prokit still for a 100 plus shipping still?

 

true, im gettin 17" oz supperleggeras w/ khumo mxs so ill let u know. but i thought a little pos? or neg? camber /-----\ was better for traction when cornering

 

could anyone, someone post picts (up close) of 18" wheels with a prokit and a sportline?? I'd like to see the difference in looks and drop before i go buy...

 

Thanks fellas. looks like I'll try without the camber kit until the springs settle then I'll make my final decision. Thanks again!

 

unneeded drama,

I don't know anyone in the last 13-14 years who installed a camber kit for a pro kit. It's not that low, unless you lower it more with whatever shocks you're running. It is impossible for the suspension to be "unstable" with the prokit, especially since the springs are progressive. I've driven my car every possible way and it either performs slightly better or the same, no matter how you drive it. The slight camber is better for cornering and the car is not lowered enough to lose any significant patch contact. My tires don't even wear funny with the prokit - not like when I had an accord on sportlines and koni/nuespeed yellows on the 3rd perch....that was low and had serious corner wear even with a camber kit. But evan with the camber kit, my tires were about 6-7 degrees more negative than the prokit and my suspension was stable and cornered like a mofo. anyways - getting off subject - If you only have a prokit, to me it's a big waste of time and money to install a camber kit unless you are concerned about tire wear.

if you have a prokit and tockico illuminas - something to keep in mind the illimunas will lower your car another 1/4" by virtue of the perch locations - not adjustable.

 

"I don't know anyone in the last 13-14 years who installed a camber kit for a pro kit."

I didn't know they made the Acura CL for the last 13-14 years? Actually, were the Eibachs even called Pro kits 13-14 years ago?

No drama, just sharing my experience.

 

EIbach manufactures the pro kit for minimal lowering for ALL cars. if you check the specs, almost every vehicle is lowered about the same, 1.2-1.6", the average is about 1.4". It's obvious in my post I wasn't talking just about our car. The point is I've seen the pro kit go on a lot of cars with no camber kit over a long period of time, and noone has reported any problems.

And yes, when I was in the import scene begining in 1988, and me and my buddies were installing springs in 87 integras and 88 accords, pro kits were called prokits.

anyways, didn't mean to come off strong - just letting the brother know he doesn't really need a camber kit.

 

"EIbach manufactures the pro kit for minimal lowering for ALL cars. if you check the specs, almost every vehicle is lowered about the same, 1.2-1.6", the average is about 1.4". It's obvious in my post I wasn't talking just about our car."

Thats too general of a statement. Did you consider different suspension types and designs...
The 1988 integra has a trailing link rear and a torsen bar front suspension. The rear camber doesn't change as you lower it. It actually shifts to one side because of the crossmember that is connected to the rear of the uni-body. The fronts changed drastically, as you loosened the height adjustment bolt. Pillow ball mounts (type of camber kit) were expensive and rare so, people just did without. That car was a bitch to drive lowered. But it handled great around corners and turns.

"anyways, didn't mean to come off strong - just letting the brother know he doesn't really need a camber kit."


No offence taken. He needs to make his own decision.

 

yeah I know that - I only mention the integra becasue that's the first car I worked on. We torqued the front bar as far as it could go until the bolts was barely hanging on...my point still remains though that since 88, I've seen the prokit go on accords, civic, integras, legends, eclipse, nissan 240's, etc and noone ever had any problems or reported their car mis handled. It's not that low.....by virtue of a stiffer suspension, it can become unstable (slightly more than stock) at high speeds or turns, when the spring suddenly compresses (rough paving, pothole), but doesn't really have anything to do with camber.

That year integra was fun to drive though

 

again, can anyone post a pict of a sportline drop with 18" ...can it be a 3.0?? thanks...

 

"It's not that low.....by virtue of a stiffer suspension, it can become unstable (slightly more than stock) at high speeds or turns, when the spring suddenly compresses (rough paving, pothole), but doesn't really have anything to do with camber."

Close, but I still beg to differ on the, "but doesn't really have anything to do with camber". If your wheels are cambered (negative) /------\ and you are traveling a high speeds the centrifical force on the tires would cause you to ride mostly on the inside edges of the tires. Therefore the resulting effect is similar to having narrower tires. What more stable going fast in a long straight away? Narrow tires or wide? (Becomes less stable?)

Negative camber /----\ is great for cornering and turns because your outside edge has the advantage of having full contact patch when the weight of your car distorts the tire.

Okay, I restate it. The change in the degree of negative camber from the pro-kit on my CL (which lowered my car approximately 1.8") caused me to notice an instablity at high speeds (80+ mph). Therefore, under my scenario I felt that I needed to have my camber corrected.

I'm not trying to be a smartass. I realized that, in your case (for your driving tastes) you may not want your camber corrected.