I have a 1999 Acura CL 3.0 with 144k miles

what kind of motor oil and what weight should I use

Im currently using PEAK oil 10w30

 

BAD!!! jk no big deal since its nice and warm out where i am. The brand of motor oil really shouldn't matter but the weight you should be using is 5W-30. I would suggest using a non-synthetic because of your engines age. I recently used some type of oil that was for older engines and i would recommend it to you if i knew what it was called. Its in a green 1 gallon bottle and it was only like 15 dollars at my local autozone.

 

full synthetic FTW... mobil 1...smoOooOoth

unless uve been using "dino oil" for the past oil changes..

yeah 5w-30 unless u live where its always hot then 10w-30 is K..

 

Don't get full synthetic with that many miles, especially if the car hasn't had synthetic all along, I would get a high mileage oil like valvoline max life

 

my car has 220k and i have been putting nothing but mobil 1 super synth and syth filter for the last 5 years and 130k !

 

mobil 1 full synth 5w30 ftw

 

mobil 1 10w40 for me. but then i have an h22.

i'd say 10w30 conventional and you're good.

 

I use mobil 1 synthetic 5w40 delvac Still say that many miles you don't wanna switch to synth, I'd get a high mileage oil

 

I have owned an integra with over a 100k and a 5th gen prelude with over a 100k and on both I used valvoline max life 5w-30, its a synblend.

 

Don't switch with high miles. No reason to, it will just cause problems most likely. Do it from the start or don't do it at all.

 

thats what I use but castrol-syntheticblend 10w30 in summer and 5w30 in winter

 

I haven't used 5W30 in my 2.3 for three years.. most of the mechanics say go to 10W30 with an older car it's more advantageous to have a thicker oil upon startup.

You only need 5W30 if the temperature is going to below 0 deg. F and even if it does, your engine won't blow up with 10 weight particularly if you use a block heater.

Make sure you don't overfill, even by a little bit, if you use a synthetic, I had the rear main start to leak after misreading the level and overfilling 1/2 qt. with Mobil 1.

If you burn oil the MaxLife will help somewhat. Going from dino to a regular synthetic will clean out all the gunk which may be preventing oil from getting past your aged seals.

 

I actually just bought oil for my first change, but my fiancee is driving around with my tools in her taurus(since you kinda need every tool you own in a taurus at all times).

Anyways, I bought a synthetic blend 5w-30, not fully synthetic. The car has 79k mi, is this a good move or bad? it had been using dino oil.

 

The blends aren't all that good I don't think compared to a group III full synthetic, they are closer to a dino oil. See Bob is the Oil Guy for specific forums, it has more info than anywhere else. They also say Fram oil filters are crap.

If you don't burn or leak oil, your oil choice won't be that critical, I have both problems with mine

 

thanks, dont worry I dont use Fram. My thinking was use a blend first and switch over to full synthetic.

 

The kitten is strong in this thread...

 

I am going to do a change this weekend, I thought I read somewhere that our car uses a special gasket or something you need to replace where you take the bolt out of the oil pan to drain it? Anyone have any more info?

 

go to home depot take the bolt with you or search the web for the size and buy some sythentic washers for like 99cents....I had the same problem and did this worked for me....and for 99cents I have some to spare....lol.....

 

Looks like a 14mm


http://www.statracing.com/replacemen...pluggasket.asp

 

you can just go to a honda dealership and pick up some crush washers. prob like 10 or 20 cents each.

 

I go to honda for oil filters, and get crush washers and drain plugs from them all the time

 

noob here... i've changed my oil a couple times, and used fram oil filters every time... what's wrong with the frams, and what's the cost difference to go to honda?

 

Not much difference between honda and fram, maybe 1-2 bucks. And nothing's wrong with fram, they're just more generic

 

I just went to straight synthetic at 136,000mi. and my 2.3 runs great.. no leaks. I used Mobil1 "Extended Performance" 5W30. I don't plan on changing the oil for at least 7500-10000 miles since it's "long-life" oil. i can pretty much guarantee its only had dino oil for its entire life too.

for what its worth tho, the crappy aftermarket filter that came with the car was leaking oil on the A pipe and smoking. It was on tight too. I used a Honda filter and crush washer and no more leaking. Honda makes very high quality maintenance parts so I would always recommend using their stuff.

 

try doin a Blend Synthetic. basically u could only go Full synthetic and not go bak...but blend synthetic u have a choice on wha u wana do.

 

Careful.. most Honda filters are Fram, the Toyo one (their best) is only sold in Japan

 

isn't the problem with fram that they dont use enough filter material, which leads to the filter clogging up much faster than normal. What brands are best I dont really know, last change I used a Mobil 1 filter.

 

Actually, Honda filters for the US and Canada are manufactured by Honeywell and before that, Filtech. I don't believe fram was ever a supplier for Honda/Acura filters.

The reason I choose genuine honda filters over aftermarket or fram is best explained with this picture

 

The one you've indicated is the Filtech Honda filter.. PLM-A02 which is the Fram. Honeywell = Allied-Signal = Fram = cardboard end pieces and plastic valve. Honeywell doesn't make too many things on their own.. like GM they put their name on a lot of things they don't manufacture. I've been using Bosch as the local Canadian Tire only sells Fram.. they must be getting some sort of kickback to carry only that brand at a store that has many other, hard to find parts. If I can find a PLM-A01 might use that one next time.

 

Haha, I just get whatever is on sale.
I think I used Castrol last oil change?
It was at 104k and I'm already at 109k.. Guess I better get some this weekend..

 

thank you Dan, you've certainly answered my question, Honda filters it is.

After losing my Camry to sludge(threw a rod through my block and burst into flames), I dont cut corners when it comes to oil.

 

Wow, not buying fram anymore. When I got my car it had a honda OEM one on it, buying fram is an injustice to my car if they use that horrid cardboard on all of them. I usually buy the toughguard ones.

 

I like the mobil 1 filters, but they're damn expensive

 

What size Oil filter wrench do the 2.3's use to get the filter on and off? Thanks!

 

I got one of the oil filter cups, the smaller one, it fits perfect

 

If you put the filter on hand tight you really shouldn't need a wrench right?
btw pureone oil filters ftw

 

Use 5W-30 Castrol Blend

I use the K&N filter for my oil and I love it. No oil wrench is needed. It has an actual hex head on the bottom for an actual wrench which is super nice and it keeps from destroying the filter.

The Blend is a safe way to go with high miles, which I am sure at this point all of our CL's have high miles on them.

 

I just changed my oil an hour ago with some Valvoline 10w40 and a pureolator oil filter my dad gave me. I should be ok right? I mean, the oil filter sounds like some generic stuff..

 

purolator is an average brand and they make purolator pureone filters which are even better. Just curious why you used 10w-40 instead of 5w-30? but i guess as long as temps in tx dont get too low then you should be good.

 

ok, thanks, that's good to hear. I chose 10w40 because summers get so hot here in Texas it's unberable.. Sometimes it will be so hot that when I park and turn off the car, the fan still runs for a few minutes. It doesn't even come close to snowing in the winter!