Which is better as far as Headers go

 

Comptech is $$$ but fits right. OBX must be modified to fit. See Dustbuster4's thread on this... :P

 

IMO; OBX (because they're on my car)! :P

Total $$$ = $360.20 installed!

 

How much of an increase in HP do those Headers put out? BTW those headers look tight!

 

As far as I know, I'm the only one to have put OBX headers on the 3.0CL. I don't have any dyno results.

Over on AV6 (Accord V6 Forum), I've seen several dynos showing 7-10 HP gain at the wheels for the 3.0 engine.

There are similar gains for torque (although, I can definitely feel the difference in torque)!

I believe that the comptech #'s are a little higher, but the price is a LOT higher.

 

I'll let you know pretty soon, I plan on being the next guy with OBX headers on his CL! Dyno will follow the install!

 

I got them!!!

OBX Headers are now mine!!!

Install next week after they get shipped to me, and I'll let you know what I think!

 

where did you guys get your headers from, if you don't mind telling me. Plus, how much do you have to modify if any to put them on?

 

I got mine off of eBay (search for OBX Accord Headers) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...864110269&rd=1

As for the modification, check here: http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=82498

 

damn dust,

not trying to be a dick, but i got 30hp to the wheels from comptech headers..

you only got 10hp

 

I haven't had mine dyno'd yet (no one has dyno'd the OBX headers on the 3.0CL). I was just reporting what the folks over on the AV6 board have posted.

I expect to yield a larger increase than 10HP, but I'll not know because I already have other mods on the CL (and I never dyno'd the car when stock). The only way to know for sure what the OBX headers yield is to put my car back to stock, dyno the car, then put on just the headers and dyno it. :thumbsdn:

I hope that someone here can dyno their car stock, then put on the OBX headers for a dyno.

From what I can tell, the HP from the OBX headers are pretty close to Comptech headers (when comparing them on the CL-S).

 

ummm... 30hp with what other mods???!!! The CT headers are charted at 30hp for CL-S at the fly wheel, not even the wheels.. so come again... 1st Gens are said to gain about 15-18hp at the fly wheel... I gained a noticeable 10 maybe 15 hp from my CT headers with only intake... 30hp... you are either mistaken or counting a shot of NOS with that DYNO!!!!

 

I think i'm going with the OBX just because of the $$$ issue

 

dust needs to run to the track and the dyno-- maybe after a few more upgrades ;-)

 

I'm going to the track Sunday morning.

 

Good Luck on Sunday! ... hope you break in to the 13s ... anyone knows what a stock 3.0CL runs in the 1/4 mile?

 

PERFECCTO... only go with the OBX if you are handy... the install alone will be $$$ with modifications since it does NOT bolt on... Dust had to bend some of the piping to fit.. if you do NOT trust the installer.. you are better off paying extra and getting a proper fitting header!

 

a stock 3.0CL should run around 16 sec on the 1/4 mile. I've see published figures between 15.9 and 16.1.

I ran a 15.85 with a short ram (only a few HP extra to the wheels).

 

As always - Dust is an infinite pool of information & help!

 

its kinda odd that the obxs don't just bolt on. the main purpose of the headers is for better air flow and the curves are a little different. and if you change it then your changing the air flow a little and then you loose some hp. i just seems weird that they make those headers not to fit.

 

They're not made for the CL, just the Accord.

Apparently, there's a slight design difference between the 2 models' exhaust system (remember, the Accord is dual exhaust).

The custom bend in the down pipe is negligible (you can't even tell it was done). It did not restrict the flow of air/exhaust, only send it about 3-4 degrees in towards the center of the car's mid-section.

 

i c

 

ok - couldn't take it any longer. My OBX headers are on the way.

Now.....since my car is stock, I should be able to provide us with some decent stock -vs- OBX numbers on a dyno.......just gotta find a dyno-place.

Hope to have them here by the weekend & installed next week sometime.

 

I wanted to make sure that I fully understood your bend. You didn't actually have to make the U bend inward anymore, but instead that pipe was rotated? Or was the rotation of 3-4 degrees a result of having to compress the U bend? Do you think that it is possible to have this done before the install is started so that eveything is ready to go.

Thanks.

 

It's hard to describe.



Hopefully, this pic will help.

The "U" curved pipe--for the rear header (pipe that points back towards the rear of the car) gets bent in towards the main pipe about 1" (the 1" is measured at the flange, not at the "U" curve). Unfortunately, while this bend is made, the flange will "twist" so that the bolt holes don't exactly line up with the header when it's already bolted to the car (the best way to install it). The "twist" can best be described as a clock face. The bolt holes will move clockwise about 3/16" of an inch. Not much, but enough to keep the bolts from going straight through.

I found it necessary to unbolt the exhaust, section by section, then bolt on the headers, then the downpipe to the headers, then the cat to the down pipe, then the midpipe to the cat, then the axle back section (including the muffler) to the midpipe.

This allowed the original misalignment of the rear header to the downpipe to be absorbed at several points along the exhaust system. The flex at the end of the downpipe helps, but doesn't completely take up all of the "twist".

 

Thanks for you reply. I got it now. One last thing, do you think that the bend is something that I could have done before hand? All the 1st gens should be the same underneath, right? Looking to install in a '99 3.0.

Thanks again.