Hey everyone. Well i finally bought a HID kit. It should be here in a few days. So now im gettin ready and preparing for the install. I assume most of you installed your own kits so hopfully it shouldnt be THAT hard. (im clueless when it comes to electrical and these types of installs)

I did a search and found Dajuice27's Install Instructions which should help tons! (thanks by the way)

But is there anything elce i should know?? Pretend your teaching a 3 yearold....lol...cuz again, i know nothing about electrical but i really wanna do this install myself.

The kit is a plug n' play Eurolite 9006 7000K with philips balasts and Hella bulbs.

So what elce should i know before installing? Im guessing i need to install it directly to the battery? I dont need to splice or sodder anything will I?

Oh, since their plug n' play, i dont need to adjust the headlamp and adjust the headlight beams do i? They will line up and shoot on the road like the OEMs wont they? Or am i going to have to use trial and error to gee them pointed on the road right??

Please if u have any info or helpful ideas / pictures...please respond. I really could use your guys help on this one.

Thanks!

~CJ~

 

Check your PM.

 

You wont have to go directly to the battery. It will get power from the factory harness. All you will have to do is plug in a series of harnesses which should take you 5 minutes to get them in and working. The onyl hard part is deciding where you want to mount the ballasts and making it look good. Congrats on the hid's.

 

sweet...so no direct battery hookup? what about pluging in the bulbs? Do i need to re-aim them to hit the road better? (if so, is it pretty much trial and error? or is there a system to doing it?

 

Anytime you work on your lights you should aim them. Just park perpendicular to a wall on even ground and make your lights point a little bit downward and in a bit. Its not hard there are little gears you turn with a screwdriver.

 

Me and my friend installed the same kit on my car...You sure it's 7000k? I thought they only made a 9006 Eurolite 8000k? I love the kit tho. Install took about 35-40 min.

 

 

if it doesnt hook directly to the batter than its an adapter not a wiring harness. technically they should be wired directly to the battery becuase our car was not designed for the load xenon systems draw during startup. you may never have a problem and im not sayin you will, but a $10 relay and $10 for some wire is cheap insurance.

anyway ur kti will be extremely easy to install. the hardest part is going to be where and how you mount the ballasts. rodd ur looks nice and clean. i jsut hope those ballasts are 100% water proof, i know most oem ones are not.

 

Ya i dont think they are waterproof But I think that some people keep them in plastic bags...I haven't had a problem!? So are the HID's gonna kill my batery? Should I only start them with my car running?

 

humm good to know...so where can i get these relays and wire to do this? i take it that part of the install wont be hard either? (picts????)

 

yeeaaa...so basicily, if i dont wire the HIDS directly to the battery then when/if i turn them on with the car off...what will happen? i cant afford to mull much more juice from my battery...im already runnin all the stock OEM stuff...plus a 500W amp and 2 12"subs....a motorised 7" tv and dvd player and now the HIDs....what should i do? I'd like to be able to turn on the headlights without having the car on from time to time...

 

nothin will happen to your battery. im talking about the oem low beam wiring, switches, and relays. unless you really check out all the components theres no way to know what exactly they are made for. im sure honda used parts that are more then capable of handling the halogen 55 watt loads. its just easier to wire stuff to the battery and trigger off a realy than to go researching if your safe or not. all cars are different so its just always recommended to wire them directly off the battery. you get what im saying now. this wasnt meant to scare you or make you think your gonna have problems. it was just an fyi.

 

H.I.D's
are suppose to use less energy than your stock bulbs!

thats what i was told when i bought mine.

 

alright..thanks for the info..but i still dont understand how to wire it up to the battery? (yes im sorry, im stupid with this electrical stuff)

From what i understand...the install goes like this. (and no, i dont have the HID kit yet so i cant look at it and see)


Ok, OEM wiring harness that the OEM bulbs USED to plug into, will plug into the Balast. Then, theres another wiring harness that connects the HID bulb to the other side of the balast. And then u ground it and all that. So from what im hearing and believeing, the balast/bulb gets power from the OLD OEM wiring harness like the OEM bulbs used to get....So then how would u wire it up to the battery??


found this..but it dosnt help much...
http://www.hidforum.com/index.php

 

Oh thankz vxcl for the info...I was just confused...I think that the wiring kit for the cl is pretty good i had the nokya's on them for a while and there like 80watts. Never had a problem When you say draw...Doesnt a 100watt or 80 watt hyperwhite, superwhite, etc kinda bulb have the same draw as a HID kit? But then the HID's go to a lower watt of 35 instead of staying at 80?
VXCL, I appreciate all your knowledge that you share with some of us HID newbies like myself.

Acura3.0CL, you should be able to install no problem. It's alot simpler then I thought i wish i would payed more attention when my friend did most of the work. The only thing that took time was just mounting everything. Me, jo0p-cl, and this kid from my work installed them in like a hour. On both me and jo0p's car.

 

INFO PROVIDED BY Automotive Lighting Forum

Why can't I power HID systems from stock headlight wiring?
Lets start off and show how it really looks like under the hood:

Imagine that we connect the HID ballast directly to where the low beam halogen bulb is connected. Some vehicles might be are able to power up HID systems normally without problems at install time. Most probably, it will not last long. The inrush load can be up to max 15 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen. The factory design parameters for headlight curcuit is 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, beacuse of heat buildup. These components are very time consuming to troubleshoot becuse they are usully well hidden behind dashboards and other wiring looms. Parts easily reaches several hundered dollars. Add 8h labour to that and it becomes obvious that a $50 wiring harness is a cheap insurance.


How can I ensure that I do not fry my cars internal headlight harness?

During normal HID operation, you use only 42 watts (35W to run the bulb plus 7W in heat losses in ballast) instead of the 55 watts that the halogen bulb uses, which is less, but, during HID cold startup, and for the first several seconds during warmup, the HID system can draw up to triple the normal operating power to run the ignitor circuit during that time. As the bulb warms up, the current draw tapers down to the normal running level. By powering the ballast through a relay straight from the battery to HID ballast, the heavy load is removed from stock headlight curcuit. Triggering the relay only requires 0.1 amps, so stock headlamp curcuit has no problem powering that. A relay is just a remotely mounted heavy duty switch, and the trigger power that goes to it just draws a small amount of current through the headlight switch to run an electromagnet that mechanically closes the contacts inside the relay which in turn hooks battery power strait to HID ballast power terminal. This insures that you wont ever overdrive the ratings of your vehicle's harness.

this should clear things up
also i only agree with the logic. the above problems aren't definite. it all depends the electrical parts in a specific vehicle. that info is the reasoning behind wiring them directly to the battery becuase unless you know the specifications of every part in the cars circuitry you can't really be sure so why risk it? also many hid kits are made with cheap parts which if wired directly into your cars circuitry could cuase you real problems if they malfunction. also most parts on ebay are from car wrecks. this could cause even $2000 equipment to fail down the line. it does happen!

heres a wiring diagram i made

 

VXCL...again, without u and dustbuster...A-cl.com would be a total loss...thank you for all your help and info...Picts and diagrams ALWAYS seem to help tons! THANKS SOO MUCH!!

 

Eh....I don't think there is anything to worry about. The factory headlights are triggered by a relay anyway, so no need to worry about the headlight switch. A high current draw for 3-4 seconds is not going to cause any significant damage to the headlight wires, and isn't going to create any "heat buildup". If it doesn't blow the fuse (which would signifly a higher current draw for an extended period of time), you should be just fine.

 

again i was just sharing info that is out there. im not saying you have to do this. logically it makes sense, but there are alot of things that work in theory, but in reality is another story. i have heard some nasty stories in the past so thats why i shared the info. who knows what the cuase was. could have been the equipment. its like some ppl can run 80watt bulbs on oem wiring and other melt the shit out of the connectors and burn up the wiring.

i also agree with proaudio

 

There's no harm is setuping up the relays tho, it might be worth it for extra insurance. I might be worried about some of the cheaper ballasts, etc.s

I might be doing it anyway for another reason - I don't want my HIDs to flash on/off when the alarm goes off. Can't be long enough to really start the bulbs, so it'll prob shorten their life. What do you think VXCL? If I had a second relay set after the car wires, but before the ballasts that was connected to an ignition wire - it wouldn't allow the lights to come out without the ignition being on. This axes my other plans tho, I wanted to add the circuit to allow the lights to automatically turn off after ~20 seconds. I assume the alarm just triggers the headlight circuit - I wonder where it connects and if it would be possible to swap it for just the running lights?

 

im looking into running lights myself. i take it you have an aftermarkert alarm becuase your actual headlamps flash? if this is true then have no choice to but to make your own harness to bypass that. or were you talking about how if you flash your highbeams the lows automatically go on. this would make your xenons flash when you signal.

 

I just have the stock 98 alarm (I really like it tho, all it needs is a shock sensor which will be added when I tear the car down). It flashes the equivalent of having the low beams on (rear tails, front markers, low beams). I want to remove the low beams from that list so I don't fawk up my HIDs. From what I've read, flashing HIDs like so (IE less than 1-2 seconds) can cause some serious damage after a while. I'd really like to find an easy way to modify the stock wiring so that it just excludes that.

What I really want is to add a circuit that will automatically turn off my headlights after I turn the car off. My buddy's Accord turns his lights off after like 15 or 20 seconds. It wouldn't be hard to do, all I need is a timer circuit that unlatches a relay X# of seconds after it loses power from the ignition. That relay would be inserted in the wire that feeds the headlight switch circuit. I might be able to just pick up that Accord part and hook it up.

I can't do the above tho if I have to add a set of relays to cut the low beams off when the ignition is off. It would turn off the headlights off as soon as I turned the ignition off, but I would like to have that delay for the pimp factor and for the utility of lighting a path.

 

im still amazed that your low beams flash with your alarm. is that a 98+ thing? my 97 just blinks the parking lights. i lucked out i guess.

 

no...VXCL...your parking light flash when you lock the car...but when you alarm actually goes off, and you press the panic button, the headlights flash....so how can we fix this problem easy so that our HIDS dont screw up...??..

 

parking lights just flash on my 99

 

reeeallly....humm...so to protect my HIDs from flashing when my alarm siren goes off (like the 97's do)(i want aware that the models had different alarms) So i guess i need to figure out whats different between my alarm and the 99's and swap that part out so my HIDS wont flash....

Anyone got any ideas?? (sorry bout tryin to correct u VXCL....lol...looks like im still the dumbass....hehe my mistake!)

 

so where do u get that relay? and that extra wire yall were talking about?

 

How much did your setup run u Acura3.0CL?

 

this thread is 7 months old

 

yea.. its 7 months old.. but its still going!! muwahahahaha.

 

my headlights flash as well with my stock alarm, oh and does anyone know where I can pick up this 9006 wire harness?

 

yes, same question as Klepto.. i'm gettin my HID soon.. its either hookin it up to my headlite wires ( afriad the alarm going off and my HID flashes along w it ) or get the relay for the connnection to the battery.. damn.. wat do to?!?!??!?! and where to get'em!?!?! mommy help

 

hey someone tell me if a set of A6 Hella ballasts for $150 good deal or not w/o bulbs

 

what gen hella ballasts are they. If theyre gen3 or higher, its a pretty good deal. Its hard to even find a set under $200 on ebay

 

i believe they are the gen 3.. the 1 piece design right? yup for $150