im new pulled to codes but have specific ?
im new pulled to codes but have specific ?
Hello Acurazine
Just got my 98 CL 3.0 about 2 weeks ago, revived it with no CEL but had the ABS LIGHT.
On Sunday while driving on the highway the CEL came on, I had bought some new spark plugs for the car change them and the CEL went out then came back on a hour after again.
got the codes pulled and received 2 codes.
1. P1738. Autozone list of possible causes is 1. Low transmission fluid level (Im going to pick up the Honda atf fluid tomorrow and see if that helps) 2. Open or short Circuit condition. 3. Repair shift valve E in the main valve body. 4. Replace the main valve body.
Im fairly new to repairing cars so are these easy and or inexpensive fixes,?
the second code was.
2. P0420. Poor electrical connection at HO2S sensor 2, and or Catalytic converter.
Could this be and electrical problem? and not a device problem?
The next problems i have with the car is the speedo and the trip meter does not work, The tach, gas, odometer, and temp gauge work. also i engaged the cruise control and from reading on the forums that means the VSS is still working so how would i go about fixing the speedo gauge. or should it be replaced?
The last problem i have is when i press the turn signal the gauge cluster light blinks is that due to and electrical problem? someone was telling me the reason the ABS is on could be the signs of the alternator about to go bad! is that accurate?
Thanks for the help sorry if all these have been answered in different threads ..
Also the car runs fine smooth gear transmission, accel very nice, starts up and sounds like a fairly new car instead of of a 16 year old car!.
thanks again.
Just got my 98 CL 3.0 about 2 weeks ago, revived it with no CEL but had the ABS LIGHT.
On Sunday while driving on the highway the CEL came on, I had bought some new spark plugs for the car change them and the CEL went out then came back on a hour after again.
got the codes pulled and received 2 codes.
1. P1738. Autozone list of possible causes is 1. Low transmission fluid level (Im going to pick up the Honda atf fluid tomorrow and see if that helps) 2. Open or short Circuit condition. 3. Repair shift valve E in the main valve body. 4. Replace the main valve body.
Im fairly new to repairing cars so are these easy and or inexpensive fixes,?
the second code was.
2. P0420. Poor electrical connection at HO2S sensor 2, and or Catalytic converter.
Could this be and electrical problem? and not a device problem?
The next problems i have with the car is the speedo and the trip meter does not work, The tach, gas, odometer, and temp gauge work. also i engaged the cruise control and from reading on the forums that means the VSS is still working so how would i go about fixing the speedo gauge. or should it be replaced?
The last problem i have is when i press the turn signal the gauge cluster light blinks is that due to and electrical problem? someone was telling me the reason the ABS is on could be the signs of the alternator about to go bad! is that accurate?
Thanks for the help sorry if all these have been answered in different threads ..
Also the car runs fine smooth gear transmission, accel very nice, starts up and sounds like a fairly new car instead of of a 16 year old car!.
thanks again.
1) speed sensor? that's my guess. 2) do you have any exhaust leaks. I oddly enough came on here to figure out how to read codes again and I'm 90% sure It's my O2 sensor, every japanese car I've owned gets a CEL from a leak to close to the cat at some point. You should also read the ABS code. There's a blue dummy plug under your glove box. It's bright blue, you unplug that and jump the pins together and when you turn the car to start it will ramble off the codes.
You can look up exactly how to do this, I dont remember how they go at the moment(being it's 6am
). It's usually, in increasing difficulty and price ----> low brake fluid or a wheel speed sensor or the killer, leaking accumulator seal(pretty common). I had the last, you would need to basically replace the entire ABS unit, I opted to take my dash apart and fake the light being off. This saved me probably $1500, I don't have ABS, but hell, this is the first that had ABS for me. Now if your brake light comes on as well, then have that checked out immediately.
I'm going to advanced auto as soon as they open this morning.
You can look up exactly how to do this, I dont remember how they go at the moment(being it's 6am
). It's usually, in increasing difficulty and price ----> low brake fluid or a wheel speed sensor or the killer, leaking accumulator seal(pretty common). I had the last, you would need to basically replace the entire ABS unit, I opted to take my dash apart and fake the light being off. This saved me probably $1500, I don't have ABS, but hell, this is the first that had ABS for me. Now if your brake light comes on as well, then have that checked out immediately.I'm going to advanced auto as soon as they open this morning.
Last edited by Myxomatosis; Nov 22, 2013 at 05:56 AM.
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