H22A swap
#41
Unless you get an OBD2a motor with its matching p13 computer. I would go OBD1 also. OBD1 H22's are sapposedly the most powerfull too. I want to go with an OBD2a motor swap this time so everything can plug in easy. I dont need a powerhouse, the H22 will have plenty from the start to push the car. And they just look awesome under the hood. Just wire up the distributor and everything shoud be simple from there. I might even get away with smog too.
#42
Unless you get an OBD2a motor with its matching p13 computer. I would go OBD1 also. OBD1 H22's are sapposedly the most powerfull too. I want to go with an OBD2a motor swap this time so everything can plug in easy. I dont need a powerhouse, the H22 will have plenty from the start to push the car. And they just look awesome under the hood. Just wire up the distributor and everything shoud be simple from there. I might even get away with smog too.
#43
Thats what I'm thinking. Smog is a real bitch in this state (CA). I think I can get get away with having one more cam if everything matches up. The thing is that OBD2a motors have a different intake manifold than '98 and newer motors. The idle air controler im pretty sure is a different 3 wire setup with a different shape and mounting. Single cam or dual cam, they are this way. OBD2a has a 2 wire older style idle air. So my only choice to be perfect is a '97 H22.
#44
Yeah that is correct because my '98 had the 3 wire and I had to use an adapter plate for the IACV to convert to 2 wire (which worked well) because I'm running a 97 OBD2A ECU in a 98' OBD2B car. I have heard though that some of the newer ludes used a 2 wire if they were manual from the factory. All autos came 3 wire. Yeah but a 97' H22 would be the best bet to avoid any potential hassle.
#46
Yeah it sucked man because I got the car all done and started it up and the idle kept surging badly. I was all excited to drive it and had to wait another week for the parts, but hey it was all worth it!
#47
jesus, im trying to save up for this swap and every time i look at the engine the price goes up. It started at 2,500 and its already up to 3 grand. So ive heard alot about changing the engine but i hear that getting the transmission from auto to 5 speed can be a real bitch. Any insight?
#49
jesus, im trying to save up for this swap and every time i look at the engine the price goes up. It started at 2,500 and its already up to 3 grand. So ive heard alot about changing the engine but i hear that getting the transmission from auto to 5 speed can be a real bitch. Any insight?
It's a bitch but worth it. If your car is a '97 is would be easier because you can mostly go off the 5th gen accord swap guides that are all over. If it's a 98-99 it's a little harder because of the IACV, ECU, and VSS all have compatibility issues. Basically the 98-99 CL is a 6th gen accord built on a 5th gen chassis.
#51
Demand is still surprisingly high even after the release of the K. The OBD1 H22 long blocks go for about $1800 while the Type S and Euro R complete swaps go for around $3K.
I guess the J's are still new territory. I hope they become more popular so that the aftermarket grows to that of the B series. I want a high strung all motor J.
I guess the J's are still new territory. I hope they become more popular so that the aftermarket grows to that of the B series. I want a high strung all motor J.
#53
Yeah, anywhere from $1200 to $1500 is what I'm thinking the cost should be (ECU, motor, tranny). I paid $4300 for my Euro-R back in the days. I'd like to find a swap with an LSD tranny. VERY worth the extra cost.
#54
http://www.tigerjapanese.com/index.p...mart&Itemid=26
The real smokin deal is that H23A Vtec for $795. I might have to do that motor swap sooner than planned!
#55
I'm considering a modified OBX LSD for my H23 transmission. I'd like to try something more aggressive that works under all conditions. They're a pretty good value if you can get it to work properly.
#57
#60
I didn't want anything that short. The m2s4 is almost perfect for me except for the high RPM highway cruising which sucks down gas. If you're into racing then the H22 would be a good choice.
My motor still had the auto tranny bolted up when I first went to look at it. It was a FWD version and I didn't think to look for the transmission sticker.
My motor still had the auto tranny bolted up when I first went to look at it. It was a FWD version and I didn't think to look for the transmission sticker.
#61
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