Mach30SiR

I've been chasing this problem down for a few years now, 3 to be exact. For reference:

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=159031

When using my blinkers, the lights in the car, including headlights at nighttime would dim in response to the increased load the blinkers were drawing. It was not only the blinkers, it was any load put on the car, including sun roof, heated seats, windows, anything. Well, my alternator finally went out recently and I had it towed to Pohanka Acura. They replaced the alternator and battery. They found a bad diode. I was hoping the new alternator would fix this problem, but it didn't. After being invited back to have them look at the car again they were able to fix the problem. This is word for word what was written on my paper work:

"Found virtually every load in the vehicle receiving varied voltage input when blinkers were in use. Inconsistent voltage causing any light to have a slight strobe or flash effect. Determined fault to be present in every circuit suggesting a charging system error. Examined the "ELD" (Electrical Load Detector). Found ELD supplying PCM with varying and inconsistent commands/inputs, thus forcing the PCM to constantly switch the alternator from high to low output, causing a vehicle wide condition. Suspect after market bulbs of varying and difference from stock resistance causing an average amperage draw slightly different than stock. The new average draw falls in a gray area of the ELDs logic mapping software, making it difficult /impossible for the ELD via PCM to correctly command high/low operation at idle. If loads are added/taken away, or RPM brought up, problem diminishes. Bypassed ELD to create an always high condition/command for the alternator. This will have zero adverse effects."

This was done free of charge. I've been taking my car to the "stealership" since I bought it, and will continue to do so. Not all dealerships are the same but Pohanka Acura in Chantilly VA has always done a stand up job. Thanks


As far as the suspect after market bulbs, they are LED's. (you can search my started threads for pictures) I put these bulbs in last year, 2006, but as you can see the problem has been in there since 2004. Guess they needed to be able to point at something and say this or that was the cause. Either way, I think this will help a lot of people since there are 4 pages of people in that other thread with similar problems.

STL+3.0CL

So you do agree that their explanation of "after market bulbs" was not the actual cause?

Mach30SiR

No, I was having this problem two years before those bulbs were in, however, whatever they did fixed the problem.

Mr_Xclusive808

Good info to know. I have the same problem with my car only its intermittent. (It only happens once and a while) Though I thought it was because my alternator is going bad. Or it's because i'm running alot of sounds and monitors drawing excess power for my stock alternator to keep a charge. The stock alternators amps are only 105. So i'm thinking of putting in a High Output Alternator of 205 to see if that will help out. Or just put in the Hyper Ground system with a larger Battery Cap for the sounds.....

Nakamichi

I remember many years ago there was a bulletin explaining people noticing the "dimming effect" during Daylight Saving switch over. The bulletin referred to the ELD being the culprit, but it didn't mention you could bypass it without adverse effect. I'll give that a shot.

I like how Pohanka is open till around 11pm. Thanks for the info!

AcAttAcK98

iTrader: (1)

How much would that job normally run at a shop?

Mach30SiR

Sounds like you know where the ELD is....mind sharing, i'd like to see what they did? Yeah they are open until midnight, worked out great in this case.

No idea, I haven't seen what they did yet. It took them a long time to find the problem, but to have this procedure done might only be an hour of labor? My paperwork didn't have an hourly rate or time since it was no charge.

DoubleSh0t

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to know if this is something you can DIY? If anyone knows where the ELD is, it shouldn't be terrible hard to bypass it.

Nakamichi

The Dec 2000 Acura ServiceNews states the following but doesn't include the guidance we are looking for.

Oddly when searching for this document, I stumped upon an OLD post from this board. Acura CL Community - dimming lights- update. Look at post #6. I'm interested to know if any other Honda/Acura techs does this as well.

AcAttAcK98

iTrader: (1)

Post number six sounds like the DIY to me.. Good Pull up Nakamichi

fliplyricist1

wow, this defintiely sounds like what my ack is experiencing right now. Any info on how to locate and bypass the ELD by ourselves would be great!

Mr_Xclusive808

I was just wondering if anyone figured out how to bypass this ELD??? My car does this to and now it's becoming very annoying! Before I decide to take it to the dealer I was just curious if someone out there with the same problem bypassed it or figured out another way of fixing the problem......

Mach30SiR

Unfortunately, I have no idea where the ELD is located. I'd love to know though. Maybe next time i'm in for an oil change i'll bother them to show me the location and i can see how it was bypassed.

Mr_Xclusive808

COOL! That would be awesome. A friend of mine is gonna hook me up with this Hyper Voltage Stabalizer Kit. Hopefully this will have some adverse affect on stabalizing the voltage. Or at least give it a constant flow of High Voltage instead of low. We'll see.....

jdwilks

Bumping this to see if any updates. I know where the ELD is but I havent looked at it yet to see how easliy it can be bypassed. I know it is located in the Underhood fues/relay box. I am going to try and fix this problem this weekend in the process of doing other car maintenance. I also know the other fix requires removing #2 pine white green wire from connectorC131. Where is connectorC131. I tried searching but came up with nothing

Thanks

Mr_Xclusive808

ANY IMPUTS OR UPDATES ON THE BYPASS???

Haven't put in the voltage kit yet so .......just checking.

Mach30SiR

When i talked to the Tech - I thought i heard him say he pulled a pin out of the connector so it was a clean bypass, basically it isn't hooked up anymore.

Mr_Xclusive808

Hmmm.......I think I might try that. If I can locate the ELD. I tried the Voltage kit and that didn't work either. Oh well......

smgtech

I hate to bring back post from the dead but this post never got resolved. Anyone who had this problem and fixed it can you tell us what you did? I have the same exact problem bought an optima battery yellow top didn't fix it so i took it back...bought a new alternator didn't fix it so I hopefully can take it back...im good at fixing car on my own but I just need a tsb or something to show the location of this Pin and connector. Anyone please?

Thanks,
smgtech.

98CL3.0L

Hello,
I am selling a 1998 CL for a friend and had it all ready to go when I noticed this weird light dimming thing while the lights and directionals were on at the same time. I was directed to this site and read about others trying to find a cure for this issue.
I've owned an auto electronics business for 23 years and I love a good challenge, so here's what I did: I connected a wire to the white wire w/green tracer at the 4 wire alternator connector. I ran this wire up to the larger of the two fuse boxes under the hood on the passenger side, closest to the windshield.
There are some unused ports where fuses would go if they were needed for optional equipment. I tested these ports with my test light to see which one goes hot with the key in the ignition/run position (not constant battery power). I used a male spade connector crimped to one end of a 10 amp glass fuse holder, then connected the other end of the fuse holder to the wire coming from the alternator connection. I put the wire in some black flex-loom tubing for that nice factory look.
Problem solved-no more disco lights!

Stumax

I tried this fix and it didn't work for me, maybe I did something wrong. Did it work for any one?

98 Acura CL 3.0

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

I have the exact same problem but it even dims at vtec...even after replacing the battery and I already know my alt is fine.

jimmyjam84

Back from the dead!!

For those still interested, I have some info on this. Found an article about the alternators on these cars. Here's a pdf found on google. I had problems opening it but could read it in the "quick view" link.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...nskQiIiWmuA0Yg

What 98cl3.0L was saying is that by jumping that wire it tricks the alternator into thinking it needs to be charging. From the factory the computer controls it using the ELD and at low speeds and RPMs its putting out low voltage.

The ELD is located in the fuse box under the hood on the passengers side. Try replacing the fuse box with a low mileage unit or a new one$$.
Or try jumping that wire with a switched 12v from the fuse box and the alternator will be charging all the time. It should be the bottom right wire looking from the back of the alternator.

I'll be working on this in the next few weeks.
Hope this helps!

Catfisha

Sounds like the infamous voltage regulator problem I had on my first car....it took FOREVER to finally figure out...

jimmyjam84

Update: I replaced the fuse box with a low millage unit from eBay and the code is gone. However, the lights still slightly dime at idle with the blinker on....

In case you're wondering the car has a new alternator and battery.

That's all for now.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Check your grounds and alternator connections