Hey guys,
Just bought myself a '97 2.2CL at the beginning of the year, and loving it so far. I'm new to all of this, so hey, I'd appreciate any type of guidance. I live in Toronto, Canada, so for licensing and safety, I've done the following:
Front hub bearings
Front control arms
This has pretty much stopped most of the shaking on the highway, but there's a tad bit of play in my front passenger wheel, which my mechanic tells me is still within spec?
During braking from 110KM/h-80km/h car shakes a bit, so I figure rotors are a bit warped, and maybe a seized caliper or so. I'm really into babying this car, can't wait for spring to come.
Anyhow! My goal with this is to just maintain it well, and make sure it's a smooth ride. As far as I know, the engine's been swapped out (previous owner) for a JDM F22B1 (I'm not to sure, that's what he told me, but I'll have to get it checked), with roughly 50K on it, timing belt and water pump also changed during the swap.
So here's my list of things to do, and I'm currently stocking up on parts throughout the winter to do most of the work. Feel free to throw in some ideas or opinions of what I should and should not do. Thanks in advance guys!

I'm pretty lenient with my budget so here goes for suspension and brakes:
- replace cambers all around (depending on condition)
- decent performance shocks
- new coilovers
- cross-drilled (non-slotted) rotors
- new brake pads
- rebuild calipers? (if they aren't seized)
- new calipers (if in horrible condition)

Engine-wise, I'm not too educated, but in terms of transmission and clutch, I know the previous owner didn't replace it yet. I've just put in a new master and slave cylinder clutch set, and am planning on ordering a good replacement performance clutch as well.

Body-wise, there's the usual Honda/Acura rear quarter well rusting starting, only bubbles right now, but it could get worse. A friend of mine told me that if I get that sanded down and painted over, the rust would come back quick (is this true?), so I figure there might have to be some cutting out.

And lights! Replacing stock signal lights with smoked ones, my stock left is cracked, right is missing, and I've ordered the black bezel headlights (DEPO) to be installed with HIDs, also on the way.

So what do you guys think?

Side note: Bought the car for $1500. =D Hopefully it's a steal.

 

welcome and it seems like u know what ur talking about/doing..good shit

 

Thanks,
You know what's funny? I just found the n00b guide here, for the 1st Gen CL's, and mann, that's helping me out a lot.

 

^ what's that

and is the clutch really bad? or are you just replacing it cuz it's old?
i'm at 312xxxkms on my cl and the clutch is still apparently the original according to the original owner, and still works fine for me

btw welcome to AZine
we have quite a bit of threads here for mostly all problems with the cl's, so if you do run into a problem, search for a bit first, and if you can't find it, then start a thread and we will try our best to help you out
gl with your car, and i hope you slam it on those coils you're buying

 

Sounds like you're off to a good start, I would look into the legend caliper swap if you're going to be replacing your rotors, you can replace the 2 fronts with dual piston calipers from a legend.

 

 

Dont replace clutch if its not slipping/ making wierd noises... A clutch can last a lifetime... depending on how it was driven. And if your not going to boost your engine/ insanely mod it... dont get a racing/performance clutch, you dont need it!

 

Hmmm.. I believe I'm replacing it because it's a tad old, roughly 250k on it, and this is my first time with a manual tranny, so what's the major difference between a replacement oem clutch and replacement performance clutch? I guess I have these intentions because I want to keep this car for a lonnggg while.

 

My buddy has a performance clutch on his Jetta. I don't know if they're all the same, but it's a pain in the ASS to drive because it's very stiff. It's almost as bad as manual clutch found on classic cars. An OEM clutch would be your best bet IMO - very smooth.

 

welcome, looks like youre off to a good start, and obligitory comment

 

^ what he said

Welcome dude

 

yep, performance clutches are like light switches, only work on and off, there is little modulation for DD or heavy traffic driving. Only a pain in the ass.

Oh ya, and welcome

 

I'll post up pics tomorrow when it's bright out. =D Thanks for the welcome guys.

So in response to DoubleSh0t and OttaWacK, I guess I should just be replacing with OEM? I guess I do like the current feeling of smooth shifting with the stock one, as described.

 

Wow...i hate to say this but apparently you guys know nothing about performance clutches. If you're going to mod your car to a higher horsepower level, you definitely should upgrade your clutch as your stock one will not have the holding capacity to withstand the power, and it'll slip and eventually fail. Why do you think clutches come in stages? The stages represent horsepower and torque levels that they can withstand. Like my ACT Stage 2 can handle around 280hp/tq without any issues, and an improved pressure plate helps increase clamping force so that your clutch isn't slipping from the power, but holding and putting it to the wheels.

As for the feel of it compared to stock, it depends whether the clutch is sprung or unsprung. A sprung clutch allows for you to slip it and gives leeway so that it functions like a stock clutch. Unsprung is either on or off, being that it doesn't have the springs in the faceplate of the clutch to dampen the engagement. If you buy the right clutch with the right pressure plate it can feel just as lienent as a stock clutch with a little bit of firmness. My sprung stage 2 and Shaun (h22 euro R)'s stage 5 sprung clutches feel no worse than a strong stock clutch. My friend's unsprung stage 3 clutch in his type R swapped EM1 Civic on the other hand is unbearably rough for daily driving cuz it's either engaged or not, but when he's redlining the car it catches traction like a bat out of hell.


If you're gonna have a serious build, an upgraded clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate better be part of your budget, unless you never want the power to be transmitted from the engine and transmission to the wheels. Even for a slight build I'd get a stage one clutch because i personally beat my car relentlessly and want it to last, and like the feel of a firmer pedal.

 

Wow.. that's a nice piece of information. I was doing a bit of research, and correspondingly I'm in agreement with DaInFammus, I'm looking at a Stage 1 clutch kit off ebaY, and I think it'll neatly do the trick.

 

Good read! I knew nothing about clutches being an auto guy all my life. That's pretty cool. I figured that's what the stages meant.

Ohh, and welcome to AZine new guy! Post pics! You're breaking my balls here Mike, you're breaking my balls...

 

That's what I get for commenting on a clutch while driving an automatic

You're right though, the stages / type of clutch makes a big difference. I was just generalizing - a lot of people jump in to buying a performance clutch without knowing enough and end up with leg cramps everytime they drive their car (like said Jetta driver).

 

The stage and weight of the flywheel make all the difference

 

If your new to driving manual. Stick with your old clutch until your learn how to drive a manual properly, because you will beat up a clutch real bad, if your a starter.. Beat up your old one, and save the new one for later, when u get the hang of driving the car.

Like i said about clutches, unless the car is going to big horsepower gain, you DONT need a performance clutch guys.. Going with stock flywheel and stock clutch is the best to maintain the smoothness to have a nice daily driver that wont get you tired quickly... I find the cl's clutch really nice as it is. I drove cars with stock clutches and aftermarket "sport" clutches. Yes, the sport clutches are more responsive, they feel "sportier" but it doesn't mean they are.. i would want one on my car, unless i modify the engine heavily.

 

They feel firmer and "sportier" because that's exactly what they are, which is why i don't understand what you're saying. If your left leg gets "tired quickly" from a stage 1 or 2 sprung clutch there's something wrong with you lol.

I do agree that you should keep the stock clutch to learn on though. Stock clutches are the easiest to learn on because they're the most forgiving clutches.

 

keep the old clutch until it's done...i'm at 315XXX kms and still original clutch...just my two cents
anyways, welcome man - good to see another toronto cl member!!
lemme know if you wanna meet up sometime.

 

i have a firmer clutch in my wrx, i don't know if it's stock on not, and by firm i mean like 100x more than the cl.
the first day i drove it, my leg got soo sore, like my leg was hard to move at all, and i could barely push the clutch all the way down.
but after the next day i basically adjusted to it. Now it seems perfectly normal to me (after 2 months), except for when i drive the cl and feel like i'm gonna put my foot through the firewall when i depress the clutch

 

haha.. aw man, you guys are way supportive. Well, this is my take on things. I've ordered the clutch, but I'll save it 'til when I'm done with the stock one. =D That way, I'll be ready when it's finished. And thanks for the welcome guys, I'll definitely start looking into the T.O meets.

Side-note: Forgot to take pictures. I'll post 'em up asap.

 

Welcome man!

Keep the stock one till it dies im around 190,000miles and my clutch is original, but almost gone. I wouldn't go with the sport one unles you need it for the power increase... even the OEM clutch kills my back if i drive too long (bad back) i don't want to imagine a firmer clutch.

 

another GTA CLer..

 

welcome!
cool to see another GTA CL, even though i've hardly met any of the other ones lol

 

chris, you da man.

btw: imma unsprung kinda guy... nice when your just pounding on the car.


and welcome!