First Time Oil Changer...Tips seeked
#1
Instructor
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First Time Oil Changer...Tips seeked
I'm going to be learning how to change my oil this weekend on my 98 CL. (2.3) What type of oil does everyone use, and what type of filter do you use?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
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The best oil you can buy is mobil 1 fully synthetic *supersyn*. It cost about 5 dollars a quart though which is about as expensive as it gets but all in all worth it. The oil filter depends on how often you plan on changing your oil. I change mine every 4k miles and i use the standard fram oil filter (extra guard i think its called) if you plan to go to the owners manual schedule, which is 7500 miles then i would go w/ a higher compacity oil filter such as the fram double guard or something to that effect. Goodluck man!
#3
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well they say if you dont normally use synthetic oil in your motor dont just up and switch to it....it is not good to just switch from regular to synthetic....
i personally use mobil1 synthetic (always have) and a honda filter
some people use 5w30 i use 10w30 either is fine
i would recommend you find out what type of oil your has in it and stick with that ie. regular or synthetic
you also want to get the oildrain plug gasket from the dealer..you should always change that when you take out the plug...
what a coinsidence, i just changed my oil today...(i change my oil every 1800 to 2000 miles....damn turbo & forged pistons they love fresh oil
i personally use mobil1 synthetic (always have) and a honda filter
some people use 5w30 i use 10w30 either is fine
i would recommend you find out what type of oil your has in it and stick with that ie. regular or synthetic
you also want to get the oildrain plug gasket from the dealer..you should always change that when you take out the plug...
what a coinsidence, i just changed my oil today...(i change my oil every 1800 to 2000 miles....damn turbo & forged pistons they love fresh oil
#4
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I've heard that it is bad to change from regular to synthetic (and vice versa) but does anyone know why? I've been told that it won't hurt it if you do it like maybe a couple times but if you change it up everytime you change your oil its harmfull. When i got my car it had 45k on it, and i do believe that it was ran on regular conventional oil, when i changed the oil i filled it w/ mobil one synthetic. Would this hurt it doing it once? I would like to know an opinion, educated guess, or professional knowing. Thanks
#5
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what if you eased into full synthetic like a blanking here... the semi synthetic... blanking for the right word for a few goes and then going full synthetic? Would that be harmful ?? heard anything about that?
#6
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Don't believe the hype!
It's an old wive's tale that syn and "dino" oil are not compatible.
Look on the outside of the Mobile bottle and it says right there - fully compatible with conventional oils.
You can mix and match to your hearts desire.
I personally do not just because I like Mobile 1 and will continue to use it but if I want to I'd just switch right back. Go do some research on oil company websites about the syn product and you'll see they are compatible.
What do you think a Synthetic Blend is??? It's Conventional and syn mixed together, not a blend of fully synthetic oils...
Castrol GTX works fine if you are on a budget (you'll never have a problem) and Mobile 1 works great. Use a high quality filter, not a cheapie.
Here's some tips:
Tighten the oil drain plug snug, but not hardcore wrenched on there.
Dip your finger in oil and wet the rubber gasket on the new oil filter before application.
Twist the new oil filter until it stops then tighten by hand 1/4 to 1/2 turn only. No need to get that thing on there super tight, or else you'll have a *&%$ of a time getting it off next time. (read the oil filter instructions on the box)
Do not forget to put the new oil into the engine before starting up. Trust me, this happens!
Support the car on jackstands, not just the jack! Safety first! It doesn't matter if you save 5 min if you have a 3000 LB car on your chest and head!
good luck, have fun, get dirty, smell like oil the whole day and enjoy learning to save money and work on your car!
Peace
It's an old wive's tale that syn and "dino" oil are not compatible.
Look on the outside of the Mobile bottle and it says right there - fully compatible with conventional oils.
You can mix and match to your hearts desire.
I personally do not just because I like Mobile 1 and will continue to use it but if I want to I'd just switch right back. Go do some research on oil company websites about the syn product and you'll see they are compatible.
What do you think a Synthetic Blend is??? It's Conventional and syn mixed together, not a blend of fully synthetic oils...
Castrol GTX works fine if you are on a budget (you'll never have a problem) and Mobile 1 works great. Use a high quality filter, not a cheapie.
Here's some tips:
Tighten the oil drain plug snug, but not hardcore wrenched on there.
Dip your finger in oil and wet the rubber gasket on the new oil filter before application.
Twist the new oil filter until it stops then tighten by hand 1/4 to 1/2 turn only. No need to get that thing on there super tight, or else you'll have a *&%$ of a time getting it off next time. (read the oil filter instructions on the box)
Do not forget to put the new oil into the engine before starting up. Trust me, this happens!
Support the car on jackstands, not just the jack! Safety first! It doesn't matter if you save 5 min if you have a 3000 LB car on your chest and head!
good luck, have fun, get dirty, smell like oil the whole day and enjoy learning to save money and work on your car!
Peace
#7
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I've used Castrol GTX 10w-30 in all my honda engines (CRX, Integra, now teh CL) and a standard fram oil filter. And my integra ran to 200k+. So as to the oil that is up to you, but do do research! Consumer reports is a great magazine!
Nomad has most of teh tips you need, all I'll add is along with wetting the seal on the oil filter add some oil into the filter (just alittle) and coat the insde of the finsthat are in there. You'll see it. And when you take the drain plug out, don't drop it in the oil! Nothing sucks worse that going fishing for that damn thing in a pan of hot oil!
Nomad has most of teh tips you need, all I'll add is along with wetting the seal on the oil filter add some oil into the filter (just alittle) and coat the insde of the finsthat are in there. You'll see it. And when you take the drain plug out, don't drop it in the oil! Nothing sucks worse that going fishing for that damn thing in a pan of hot oil!
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#8
TEAM BLUR So. CAL
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mobil 1 full syn. i've used it for a while and i keeps your can running clean. i use a xtra guard fram filter also. if you have high miliage i would use 10w30.
#12
I bought mobil 1 for two of my cars because it was fairly inexpensive at walfart. I can't remember if I bought the toughguard or extra guard for my cl, because it began raining a little while ago, thus delaying my well laid out saturday with my cl.
I'm hoping to move over to mobil 1 syn for all of my cars from now on. I've heard great things about it, and read that it's no problem moving from dino to syn, so I'm going with syn....and I plan on doing it every 5 k from now on.
I drive my CL like it's a high performance car, CL22. Hell, if I can't do 160 or get a sub 14 on a 1/4 mile, I can at least roll down my windows and pretend like I'm zoomin'
I'm hoping to move over to mobil 1 syn for all of my cars from now on. I've heard great things about it, and read that it's no problem moving from dino to syn, so I'm going with syn....and I plan on doing it every 5 k from now on.
I drive my CL like it's a high performance car, CL22. Hell, if I can't do 160 or get a sub 14 on a 1/4 mile, I can at least roll down my windows and pretend like I'm zoomin'
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#14
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I used K&N oil filters on mine because of their better filter element. It's more expensive and now I use the Purolator Pure One that is supposedly better and sometimes the Fram "tri-guard" or whatever they call it. They show that the fibers have three fins on the box. I liked that they say it's guaranteed for 7000 miles or so.
As for oil, 5W30 is the recommended weight. Use it. You can certainly experiment with others but that will keep your engine happy.
As for oil, 5W30 is the recommended weight. Use it. You can certainly experiment with others but that will keep your engine happy.
#15
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I have a 2003 CL type S MT. I already have the 4.6 quarts of 5W-30 synthetic oil (not the 5W-20 the manual calls for) I also have the Mobil1 filter.
My noob question is: What is the size of the oil drain plug/bolt? My brother helped me change my oil three times so far, but I never wrote it down. Is it around 17?
Thanks!
My noob question is: What is the size of the oil drain plug/bolt? My brother helped me change my oil three times so far, but I never wrote it down. Is it around 17?
Thanks!
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#16
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Originally posted by MorningWood
I have a 2003 CL type S MT. I already have the 4.6 quarts of 5W-30 synthetic oil (not the 5W-20 the manual calls for) I also have the Mobil1 filter.
My noob question is: What is the size of the oil drain plug/bolt? My brother helped me change my oil three times so far, but I never wrote it down. Is it around 17?
Thanks!
I have a 2003 CL type S MT. I already have the 4.6 quarts of 5W-30 synthetic oil (not the 5W-20 the manual calls for) I also have the Mobil1 filter.
My noob question is: What is the size of the oil drain plug/bolt? My brother helped me change my oil three times so far, but I never wrote it down. Is it around 17?
Thanks!
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Fluffy](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/fluffy.gif)
#17
I tried to change the oil in three of my cars, but was only successfull in one, meaning that I will never go to any quasi-small chain store to change my oil again. I'm either doing it mice-elf or driving an hour to do it at the dealership.
Once I move my truck behind my acura I'll buy some jack stands. I think it needs to be reiterated, and I know it's been said hundreds of times YOU NEED JACK STANDS. I'm not skinny, but I can fit under most cars to change oil, but this damn car is way too low.
The major problem I had though on the two cars ( CL/bonnie ) were the damn drain bolts. They are stuck and my back hurts too much from trying to get under the cl. The stock CL'S, 1gen and 2gen don't look that low, but when you try to get underneath, they're not that high either.
Once I move my truck behind my acura I'll buy some jack stands. I think it needs to be reiterated, and I know it's been said hundreds of times YOU NEED JACK STANDS. I'm not skinny, but I can fit under most cars to change oil, but this damn car is way too low.
The major problem I had though on the two cars ( CL/bonnie ) were the damn drain bolts. They are stuck and my back hurts too much from trying to get under the cl. The stock CL'S, 1gen and 2gen don't look that low, but when you try to get underneath, they're not that high either.
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