nickbeee

On my ’98 2.3L CL…

I’m going to be replacing my throttle body soon due to some corrosion on the coolant lines into them….

While I’m in there replacing hoses and cleaning things out should I also remove and clean the rotary air control? I just want to be prepared with gaskets and such. Any insight would be great…

ricardo95

Hey, I'm not a mechanic but I cleaned my TB last weekend, and did my valve adjustment. No sweat. But I can't emphasize enough how valuable a good torque wrench is, especiall if you work on your car. But I'm a bit confused by the "rotary air control". What is that.
I pulled out the plates on the TB and celaned the coolant gunk that collected in there. It's a thick pastey residue. I like the honda manifolds, always have and will. They are definitely efficient but are prone to carbon collection if you don't drive aggressive occassionaly. Like my brother's Accord ,2.3 VTec. he drives like my grandmother and complains of carbon collecting inside. but then again it's an automatic.

nickbeee

I have a torque wrench but no manual,,,, What are the values for the TB bolts / nuts...

nickbeee

BTW, the part I'm talking about removing and cleaning is part #9 here:



I have the gasket on order for this puppy...

ricardo95

ahhhhhhh, I see. I did remove that. I belive it has torx screws. No biggie, just be careful not to strip the threads or over tighten as that's all aluminum. I've seen people get carried away and crack the TB. It sucks so just use caution.
As for the Tb bolts, I suggest nothing more than 20-25lbs. You should be safe and avoid any possible damage to the TB.
That pic is nice, where'd u get that from. I need some help.
I just did my valve adjustment and TB cleaning like I said. I craked a bolt as I didn't have my torque wrench. $7 each from a nearby Honda dealer. no biggie. a 98 CL with 90K miles, it took years off the engine and purs smoother.
BUT, when I took her out today, I jump on the highway and reved her up. The throttle seemed to stick open. It FLEW to 6-7K RPM. I was like WTF!!! I pulled over and turned her off. I noticed the TB hose clamp from my CAI in the way and thought it may have been stuck there. Moved it and no issues for now, only drove 15 mts due to rain. BUT, here's the kicker, when i pass gears, I take my foot of the gas and hit the clutch and the RPM hovers for half a sec at it's current level and then it drops. Is this normal? Granted I dropped some STP in the combustion chamber and let it sit for a day. I'm thinking I may have put back the accelerator cables incorrectly when I took out the assembly. I'm trying to find a pic of the cable set up to properly adjust it. Me thinks that is the issue. Thanks and wish u luck on that project.

ricardo95

oh, and nickbee, it's two screws and sorry, they're not torx. 10MM I believe. be careful with the gasket. If you remove to clean it use a thick needle or a toothpick. It can be reused after cleaning. Expect some nasty slime residue when u do remove it. gross. I'd rather be knee deep in bearing grease.

nickbeee

cool! I figured I'd use standard torque values for the size fasteners (I have those in my Honda RC51 (motorcycle) service manual...

This is the site for online diagrams / parts:
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CL&catcgry2=1 998&catcgry3=2DR+PRE2.3&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=TH ROTTLE+BODY+(2)&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp= List%20All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

I did order a new gasket for that rotary control valve... Figured it will e good to have...

Thanks man I wish more people here would chime in on maintenance / technical stuff...

senile32nd

hell i have 184k now so i think ill do that aswell. also i have poured a can a seafoam down the intake. i dont think it did a damn think but smoke alot i mean alot.

ricardo95

Senile, I have 85K miles on my lady in red, a lot of city driving. I will tell you this, after that many miles you WILL notice a difference. Be sure to do it on a day you can still order parts from as the Throttle body gasket may need replacing once removed, and I think that’s a dealer item or the site Nickbee mentioned above. It’s very easy, but be sure not to overtighten the TB screws to the manifold.

If you’re up for it, look up a TSX valve clearance on this site, someone offered a step by step DIY with pics, same principles apply. You’ll need a feeler gauge. I forget the specs, but buy that along with the valve cover gasket. I used the minimum clearance on mine, It took a while as I measured many many times before finishing. Do not rush it. I tell you, YOU WILL notice a difference. She’ll rev better, pull faster, i.e more ponies freed up, and you will notice a smoothness in the engine idle. She’ll purr a lot better.
However, if you have a CL, the CAM does not have a timing mark for the 2nd cylinder, which is the last in the 1-3-4-2 firing order, but it’s easy to get it there as the valves will be clear between plus or minus 10% of rotation, OR, just count the teeth between the two cam timing marks of 4 and 1 and divide by 2 and etch the mark on the cam gear.
It’s a timely job but not a very difficult one If you use common sense and have basic skills. Oh, an dyou’ll need a torque wrench to torque the lock nuts at 14lbs. This should be accurate as you don’t want to overtighten or undertighten. Oh, and if you’re feeler gauge has loose shims, I recommend toppiing off the oil drain holes in the valve cover with paper, tissue, whatever.
Good luck and happy riding.

senile32nd

thanks man i am going to do that today

Dan3952

I don't think the Seafoam will decarbonize your EGR valve completely, also won't help with a bad O2 sensor.

the smoke is quite entertaining I agree