Check Engine Light: any Help?!?
Check Engine Light: any Help?!?
Background:
'97 2.2 CL auto with ~45000 miles on it.
Today i got a check engine light after the car seemed sluggish for a week. Now it is really sluggish and i'm guessing cuase the CEL is on. I think it may be the trans... but how would i figure this out (without paying the $82 CEL fee at the dealer)
any help guys?
thanks
'97 2.2 CL auto with ~45000 miles on it.
Today i got a check engine light after the car seemed sluggish for a week. Now it is really sluggish and i'm guessing cuase the CEL is on. I think it may be the trans... but how would i figure this out (without paying the $82 CEL fee at the dealer)
any help guys?
thanks
Instructions on how to find out the check engine light code.
Underneath your glove compartment there is a blue connector. It is towards the passenger side of the car. After you find it must be unconnected. Once it is disconnected get a paper clip and connect one end of the paper in one hole and the other end in the other hole. Next put your key in the ignition and turn it to II (not all the way on) while the paper clip is in both holes of the blue connector. The check engine light will turn off for a second and then blink the engine code for the problem. Long flashes are 10 and short flashes are ones. Ex. you see 6 long flashes and 5 short flashes= engine code 65. If you don't see it the first time don't worry it will repeat over and over until the car is turned off. Once you get the code turn the car off. Connect the blue connector to its proper place. Go to your computer and go to niedejb's home page and look up the engine code. Once you find out your code post it up and we might be able to tell you how to fix it. Good luck
If you can't find the blue connector let me know and I'll post up a pic of where its is.
Underneath your glove compartment there is a blue connector. It is towards the passenger side of the car. After you find it must be unconnected. Once it is disconnected get a paper clip and connect one end of the paper in one hole and the other end in the other hole. Next put your key in the ignition and turn it to II (not all the way on) while the paper clip is in both holes of the blue connector. The check engine light will turn off for a second and then blink the engine code for the problem. Long flashes are 10 and short flashes are ones. Ex. you see 6 long flashes and 5 short flashes= engine code 65. If you don't see it the first time don't worry it will repeat over and over until the car is turned off. Once you get the code turn the car off. Connect the blue connector to its proper place. Go to your computer and go to niedejb's home page and look up the engine code. Once you find out your code post it up and we might be able to tell you how to fix it. Good luck
If you can't find the blue connector let me know and I'll post up a pic of where its is.
egr valve? what do you mean...
was it a recall?
thanks for the other posts...
i will try and check the code...
what happens if i can't fix it... will the code still show up for an acura dealer to find... and will they know that i tried to check it my self?
thanks
al
was it a recall?
thanks for the other posts...
i will try and check the code...
what happens if i can't fix it... will the code still show up for an acura dealer to find... and will they know that i tried to check it my self?
thanks
al
Trending Topics
EGR Valve
This happened to me last year and it should be the EGR valve. Acura should switch it for free. Right now mine is on again but they say its the O2 sensor and it needs a new EGR kit with bigger tubing.
Originally posted by TranceLovinAL
Well its either 61: O2 sensor slow response or 7: Throttle position input low/high. Cant really tell which flash is fast and which is slow.
Well its either 61: O2 sensor slow response or 7: Throttle position input low/high. Cant really tell which flash is fast and which is slow.
You could check the voltage coming off the throttle positioner and post the voltages at 0 and full throttle and I'll check mine in comparison. That should eliminate the throttle concern.
I'd bet its your O2 sensor. Many have said the 2nd O2 sensor has gone bad but not the primary. Reset your ecu and see if it comes back. (pull the 7.5 A fuse under the hood or disconnect the neg from the battery for a minute or two).
say it was either one of these two?
how would you know which one and how to fix it... me and my bro (both work on our cars a little ) may be able to fix it with some dirrection...
thanks all so far for the help...
more needed
how would you know which one and how to fix it... me and my bro (both work on our cars a little ) may be able to fix it with some dirrection...
thanks all so far for the help...
more needed
reseting the ECU takes only a few minutes? My subaru takes a few hours to be left without power...
if the light does go away after a reset... does that mean there was no problem... cause i'd rather fix the problem now and not have bigger problems later...
thanks
if the light does go away after a reset... does that mean there was no problem... cause i'd rather fix the problem now and not have bigger problems later...
thanks
If you're not having drivablity problems resetting the ECU is usually safe. If the problem consists the light will come back.
If the 61 code is the one youre getting a new O2 sensor will fix it. They're like $150 from the accordstore.com.
If it is this code and youre not having drivability issues, I'd reset it and see what happens before I spent $150 bucks.
If the 61 code is the one youre getting a new O2 sensor will fix it. They're like $150 from the accordstore.com.
If it is this code and youre not having drivability issues, I'd reset it and see what happens before I spent $150 bucks.
I came up with a 12(Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Low Lift/High Voltage). What are the implications of that? Should I tow the goddamit?
I also got hit in the right front quarter panel yesterday. Do you think that could possibly be the cause of this. Just curious, because I'm hoping that my insurance would be able to tack that on too.
I also got hit in the right front quarter panel yesterday. Do you think that could possibly be the cause of this. Just curious, because I'm hoping that my insurance would be able to tack that on too.
The first step the manual recommended is resetting the ecu to see if its intermittent. You can remove the neg from the battery or the 7.5 A fuse under the hood.
The EGR valve is up on the intake manifold. Unless you shock tower is moved in you'll be OK.
You should be OK to drive. All it does is route exhaust into the intake for emissions reasons.
I can tell you the voltages and wire codes if you want to troubleshoot further.
The EGR valve is up on the intake manifold. Unless you shock tower is moved in you'll be OK.
You should be OK to drive. All it does is route exhaust into the intake for emissions reasons.
I can tell you the voltages and wire codes if you want to troubleshoot further.
I'm not even going to try to be a mechanic. I need to take the car to the dealership to have the panel repaired anyway, so I'll just have Geico tow it as to not screw it up any further. I tell you, when it rains it friggin pours... especially in Seattle.
Thanks again for the advice.
Thanks again for the advice.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Billu99tl
3G TL Problems & Fixes
1
Sep 13, 2015 11:30 AM
HeloDown
3G TL Problems & Fixes
4
Sep 8, 2015 06:51 PM



