I want to over haul my system.
I just picked up what I think was a good deal

Here is what I got yesterday.
Subs
2X these - Sony Xplod XS L122P5 MODEL 1300W
Custom Ported bandpass box
Amp
SONY XM-D6000GTX 1400 WATT D series mono block amp

I got all the above for $100 bucks.

Currently I have one 12 Inch R-fosgate Punch and a R-fostage amp ...

What can I do with all this now?

Thanks

 

Install it?

I'm not a fan of sony, but all that for $100 is a sweet deal, all you should have to do is swap the wires from one amp to the other and wire up the subs and you'll be golden, since the wires are already run, g'luck

 

Does anyone know if its possible or better to run the old amp to the infinty speakers I have in the car, and the sony one for just the subs, I dont know that much about this kind of thing.

LOL yes and Install it would be a good idea, I was thinking more of any sort of custom ideas? ??

 

here's what I would do if I was you.
First get rid of the sony. Yes they make great home electronics, but their car audio is garbage in my opinion. Second research more about car audio. like if you want a mid-level system I would go with some diamond audio, pioneer, jl audio, Polk audio and rockford fosgate. but if you want a super-high end system go with focal speakers, diamond subs and amps and have someone do a custom install. There's nothing better than a good install for your great equipment.
I will be having some speakers up for sale here towards the end of the month if you want to buy them at a great price.

 

Yes it is possible. Thats the way I have mine. But you have to run speaker wires to the trunk of your car from the dash and another set of rca's. Its not really hard at all, just a pain in the ass..
You are going to need a power block or distributor.

Remember if you are gonna have 2 amps, its best to run them off 8 gauge power and ground. So you would need 4 gauge from your battery to your dist. block, then splice off to (2) 8 gauge wires...

 

Thanks for the input, Im not looking for anything competition grade, I had a JBL amp and Two MTX subs in my old car and it was good enough for me. I just looking to see how I could install 3 subs in the trunk and with the stuff I have currently ( i know not the best) how I should set it up.
Thanks

 

What is the benefit to having to amps, what will the difference be as apposed to running just the one? Should I get a capacitor or second battery, upgrade alternator, what will this do power drain wise?

Thanks

 

well if he was already running 4 gauge from his battery why doesn't he just run 4 gauge to the amps. That's what I'm doing. I got a 1/0AWG to 4AWG streetwires distribution block. It's just using a ring terminal in and 3 4awg's out.

 

haha, yes 1st step throw all that shit to the nearest garbage can, then go buy some real car electronics, and i mean it does not have to be expensive.
Here is my list of whats good:
AMPS - JL Audio (a lil pricey, but readily available, and many choices)
Subs - JL Audio, RE, DD, Treo, Adire, Image Dynamics, and some others
Components - Mb Quart, Elemental designs, Adire EXTREMIS (Best midwoofer/range ever created), Focal and some others

 

do not get capacitors, looks nice, but its a JOKE, get the smallest kinetik batter on ebay for like 100$ and put it near the amps, couple of feet away, and you will love it. it weighs only 15 lbs

 

I can't wait to hear Image Dynamics new stuff. Contact Djdillidon on sounddomain.com and he will hook you up with some CDT speakers for way less than retail. Like the ones they are selling on ebay for like 700$ I got for 420$ BNIB

 

At least get a cap for your bass amp

Having 2 amps benefits because your 6x9's can be powered with more watts than off the head unit, thus giving you more sound and clarity. You just need a second set of rca's and power like others said, you can have both the amps trigger the same.

 

Im trying to think what you can do with all that "stuff"
Im also not a fan of sony, overrated junk.
Run Monster cable for RCA's so you get no distortion, or need relays.
You can used your old amp and wire it for you mids and highs if the amp was a 2 channel, you'd lose the lft/right balance, but at least its ampd and you dont have to fork out any more money.
Try to put those in seald boxes, sound is reporduced cleaner, but wont travel very far outside of the car, but sounds clean inside and seald boxes save space.

 

cap is a waste, unless you get an expensive one 25 farad or higher

 

Cap makes a difference. I put a 5 Farad bank in to solve my "headlight dimming when heavy bass hits" problem.

CAP = not a waste

 

you must not know that much about car audio and power draw if you're gonna tell me caps are a waste. I have two caps with a power cell built in and my amps draw from them not my battery. They also don't clip out anymore from too much draw like they would with just off the battery. You should have at least a farad for each 1000 W you run, I run 3 farad caps and they help tramendously. I've also been at this for quite a few years so I know a thing or 2

 

 

Ebay the sony and buy something worth your time with the money you make

 

ness

 

Smart move!

 

hey if you trying to prove me that 3 farads will hold down 3000 wrms you definitely dont know what you are talking about. 3 caps are a joke for 3000wrms. 3000 draws so much current that even an extra battery would hold only limited amount of time playing at 75% gain when not driving. also i dont know the brand that you have for your caps, but only high end capacitors are worth mentioning. 15lbs kinetik battery will outperform your 3 farads and will provide 10 times more power. also power cells like batcap and so on are excellent.

 

Are you saying that caps dont work? I dont know the exact Farad to wattage ratio, but they work. I dont know of many people who roll around at 3000 rms anyways. 3 farads - 3000rms doesnt makes sense, but it does if it were 3000 max.

 

you see thats another amatuer thing to say, that you measure power in max not rms. i wonder what kind of amps you have, probably pyle, or boss that have 3000 max but really give out barely 250 rms. and you are right they do something, but they are worthless for 75-100$ a pop, unless your system is 200wrms max.

 

Thanks for bashing man. "Amatuer"? Wow. And no I dont have Pyle, Boss, Pyramid.. I have Hifonics.
I didnt know where you were coming from with this. But since your so adamant to prove that Caps are worthless... to everyone.. "Caps are worthless"

 

hey i am not bashing, sorry for coming out that strong, i really just want to express what i think and know for sure. i didnt mean to be in any way disrespectfull just some things i know for sure and some things i wouldnt even leave a comment if i wasnt sure. hey buddy lets be friends, haha that came out a lil gay but no hard feelings on the previous posts.

 

Cool deal bro.
So this Kenetix battery is simply another battery to draw from? Like optima?

 

Actually I said minimum, most people in the audio forum suggest 1 farad per 500 watts, I suggest 1 farad per 1000 as a baseline cuz I've seen cheaper caps not hold loads. I've drawn lots of power and clipped amps, and I love caps. I've also helped install batteries in trunks, I know the difference, and know a lot about power draw. I measure in RMS not max. I have 2 x 3 farad caps one for 1000W rms and one for 800W rms. If you were pushing 3000 watts, you would want to use a 25 farad cap, I just think for most systems that people push on here which don't exceed 1000w in most cases, a 3-5 farad cap is more than enough. You don't need to mount a $200 optima or a kinetik, that was the only point i was trying to make. Caps have helped my power draw immensely and I have an optima yellow so I don't fear pumping power out of it, but I still like my amps to not clip out cuz they're drawing too much power at once, and me and my friends have had a lot of luck with caps inline with your battery to share the load

 

kinetik is a totally sealed cell battery that is very compact for what it provides. optima is very good and cheaper, kinetik, especially larger cells are very heavy duty and can handle tons of power, but you right its basically a battery, just advanced one.

 

blackack, i plan on running a sub amp at 500 rms, and a 4-channel at another 500 rms. in your opinion, would a cap be beneficial? as of right now, i'm just using some stock battery and probably won't replace it until it goes out. what do you suggest? i'm open to buying a cap, but i don't know how many farads, what brand, etc. any info you or anyone else could provide would be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

Caps are definitely worth it no matter how big or small really. Every little bit of juice counts and it all depends on what kind of load you have as previously stated. I have about a maximum grunt of 1600rms in my CL between the 3 amps. I only have a simple little 1F cap. It's not nearly enough but it helps since there is no point in time where I am drawing that much current to begin with unless I want to run a bass track. Light dimming is no longer an issue since I finally got some HID bulbs that fit this car with my ballasts. But I still feel power get pulled from the motor on a bass hit... literally has an effect on engine RPM. The only real solution is to rewind my alt and add a battery or do the same with a HO alt. Also redoing the main grounds and power leads in your engine bay with higher gauge and higher strand count wire will help a lot. I've had to do it for a few customers with civics who bought entirely too much gear for those wimpy little alternators.

 

Caps are worth it to ensure that your battery doesn't overdrain, I won't run a system without a cap. Thanks for searchin

 

chris, what size cap did you have with mine?

 

1.5 farad