A couple of months ago I replaced my rotors and pads. At first I noticed a lot of brake dust, which I thought was normal because the pads were breaking in. Then my brake light stayed on a little while after I released my parking brake. Then my brake light was on most of the time. And now my ABS light is always on and my brake light rarely comes on. What is wrong? The pads ride a little and there is still quite a bit of brake dust. And I made sure that the back of the pads were lined up with the piston. Also I tried to retrieve the ABS code by jumping the wires and the light wouldnt flash. And finally is there a way to adjust the caliper so the pads wont ride?....They automatically adjust right? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

If ABS light was on, you should always give you a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) when you connect the SCS service connector while the following conditions are met:
- Vechicle speed is 6 mph (10km/h) or less
- The CSC Service connector is connected before the ignition switch is turned ON (II).
- The brake pedal is released.

If the brake pedal is depressed when turning on the ignition switch ON (II), the system shifts to the DTC Erasure mode. Remember it takes about 6 seconds for the first DTC cycle to begin after turning on the ignition switch ON (II).

Were you jumping OBD2 connector (driver side) or the SCS Service connector (passenger side) or had the brake depressed?

 

I agree. First step in ABS repair is finding out the code. It's there, you just need to follow the procedure and jumper the Service Check Connector (bluie 2-wire connector under the glove box).

Brake pads are pressed against rotor by the caliper pistons, however the caliper body floats on the caliper pins ( 2 bolts). Did you remove, lubricate, and replace the pin seals? If not, the calipers may not be able to float properly and relieve brake pressure once applied. This would cause lots of brake dust and poor gas mileage. Fix is easy, clean pins, lubricate w/ caliper pin grease, and replace pin boot seals.

good luck

 

I just reinstalled the caliper, i didnt do any of that other stuff i will have to try all of that. I will also try and get the code again, maybe i was pressing the brake when i turned the ignition on. Thanks.

 

Check your fluid... i replaced my pads and rotors recently and now I have a leaky right rear caliper.. im always refilling the fluid now until I replace it.

 

my abs light has been on since god knows when

 

I Am Betting On Low Fluid

 

It's part of my daily CL driving experience

 

exactly..but now i got the SRS and the engine light to match

 

No the fluid level has been fine the whole time.......I tried to eliminate the obvious before posting. And I checked for leaks and there arent any. After reading up on this I think I have found the problem. When you push the piston into the caliper you are supposed to open a bleeder valve so the pressure doesnt build at the ABS solenoids. I removed the resevoir cap, but I think I need to replace the whole module now. Has anyone else ever heard of that happening? And I tried to read the code and its still not working. I jump across the blue connector under the dash put the key in and turn the ignition on and the ABS light illuminates and thats it no flashes idk whats wrong? Am I doing something wrong?

 

"When you push the piston into the caliper you are supposed to open a bleeder valve so the pressure doesnt build at the ABS solenoids"
Comment: No, the ABS valves isolate the modulator from the normal brake system. When you slowly press the caliper piston back to reinstall new pads, the displaced brake fluid returns back to the master cylinder reservoir. If fluid level is high initially, fluid may overun the reservoir, but no other issues.

No ABS code and ABS light stays on w/ after engine is started.
There is a page on this in my 2.5TL shop manual. It says to check the Heater Control Relay fuse in the under dash fuse box (7.5A fuse). If bad replace. Remaining two diagnostic steps require a circuit diagram and the shop manual to follow, but basically are searches for wiring faults in the ABS power supply wiring.

Working on ABS requires the Acura shop manual for your vehicle to perform the correct tests. The 2.2CL ABS is identical to 94-97 Accords and that manual has similar instructions as above for your condition, however the fuse is labeled "R/C Mirror (7.5A)".

Note, ABS controller could be cause of the problem also.

good luck

 

TexasHonda.......thank you very much ill try everything. Where do you work, you know alot. Ive been through school for this too lol and I guess I didnt get much out of it and I dont have much experience in the field.

 

I went to "school of hard knocks". Seriously, I learned from experience, and I have a technical education in engineering; civil and aerospace engineering. Most thinigs are learned by experience and self-education. Read those manuals carefully.

regards