1997 Acura CL cooling fan
#1
1997 Acura CL cooling fan
Hi guys,
I have a 1997 Acura 2.2 CL. The A/C works fine. When is drive on freeways, the engine stays at the normal hot temperature (the gauge shows 1/3 hot). When i keep the car on in idle, the engine gets heated up to the max. The cooling fan (on Passenger side) does not turn on until i turn off the Engine. To my knowledge, the cooling fan has to turn on when the radiator is hot and it will go off when the radiator temperature goes below and this keeps repeating. Do you guys know whats wrong with my cooling fan?
Also, when the engine is getting heated up, reached max, all the coolant is pressurized and it leaks from the radiator and the external coolant tank.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
Prat
I have a 1997 Acura 2.2 CL. The A/C works fine. When is drive on freeways, the engine stays at the normal hot temperature (the gauge shows 1/3 hot). When i keep the car on in idle, the engine gets heated up to the max. The cooling fan (on Passenger side) does not turn on until i turn off the Engine. To my knowledge, the cooling fan has to turn on when the radiator is hot and it will go off when the radiator temperature goes below and this keeps repeating. Do you guys know whats wrong with my cooling fan?
Also, when the engine is getting heated up, reached max, all the coolant is pressurized and it leaks from the radiator and the external coolant tank.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
Prat
#2
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check your thermostat, if it's not that then it's your fan switch relay
#4
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mine does the same thing what i did to fix the problem was to:
1: let car cool off
2: open radiator cap
3: start Car
4: pour in 50/50 coolant till you cant see the slots/holes
5: wait and it will go down a little then pour more in
6:replace cap and turn car off or let it idle to determine if the problem is fixed
this happen to me because there was an air bubble somewhere in the cooling system, prob. by the thermostat causing to read a high temp
did your car heat up while at a red light
worked for bout 4 months then i did it again
1: let car cool off
2: open radiator cap
3: start Car
4: pour in 50/50 coolant till you cant see the slots/holes
5: wait and it will go down a little then pour more in
6:replace cap and turn car off or let it idle to determine if the problem is fixed
this happen to me because there was an air bubble somewhere in the cooling system, prob. by the thermostat causing to read a high temp
did your car heat up while at a red light
worked for bout 4 months then i did it again
#5
I changed the upper hose few weeks back and checked the air bubble. It was clear.
Yes, it gets heated up while im idle or on red light or slow traffic. When im on freeway with a good speed, it does not cross the half way of the gauge cause of the air cooling the radiator.
Yes, it gets heated up while im idle or on red light or slow traffic. When im on freeway with a good speed, it does not cross the half way of the gauge cause of the air cooling the radiator.
#6
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Sounds like thermostat
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#8
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The fan on the passenger side of the radiator is the engines cooling fan and the one one the drivers side is the condenser fan. If your engine cooling fan is not coming on when the engine gets above 1/2 way on the temperature gaugeand the coolant level is FULL, then you will need to check a few things...hopefully you have a DVOM (voltmeter):
1. Check the following fuses: underwood fuse block- Fuse 21 (20A) and Fuse 34 (15A) Underdash fuse block- Fuse 8 (7.5A) and Fuse 4 (7.5A)
2. If fuses are good, unplug the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor that's to the left of the EGR valve (if you're looking at the engine). It has a black and green wire on it. If the fan comes on after disconnecting sensor, you could have a bad ECT sensor or radiator cooling fan module that's located behind the glove compartment and has "Motorola" on it. If the fan doesn't come on, go to step 3.
3. Locate and remove the radiator cooling fan relay which is the relay that's at the far corner on the passenger side closest to the firewall right beside fuse 23 (10A). Once removed, take a wire and bend it in the shape of a "U" and jump the terminals 1 and 3...these terminals can be identified on the fuseblock by looking at the relay and finding small numbers that would be near the metal terminals themselves. If I remember correctly, two of the terminals are gold and two are silver, terminals 1 and 3 on the relay fill the terminals on the fuseblock that you must jump. Read that part very carefully so that the wrong terminals are not crossed...it is accurately typed so don't worry. Be careful when jumping the terminals because if the radiotor fan motor is good, it will come on instantly regardless if the key is off or on. If the fan doesn't come on, chances are a BAD radiator cooling fan motor. If it does come on, chances are you probably have a bad relay.
***this is a basic test that checks for component failures only. It is not meant to identify issues related to wiring/harness issues and obviously assumes that all wiring is good. Use it ONLY for assistance. Good luck.***
1. Check the following fuses: underwood fuse block- Fuse 21 (20A) and Fuse 34 (15A) Underdash fuse block- Fuse 8 (7.5A) and Fuse 4 (7.5A)
2. If fuses are good, unplug the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor that's to the left of the EGR valve (if you're looking at the engine). It has a black and green wire on it. If the fan comes on after disconnecting sensor, you could have a bad ECT sensor or radiator cooling fan module that's located behind the glove compartment and has "Motorola" on it. If the fan doesn't come on, go to step 3.
3. Locate and remove the radiator cooling fan relay which is the relay that's at the far corner on the passenger side closest to the firewall right beside fuse 23 (10A). Once removed, take a wire and bend it in the shape of a "U" and jump the terminals 1 and 3...these terminals can be identified on the fuseblock by looking at the relay and finding small numbers that would be near the metal terminals themselves. If I remember correctly, two of the terminals are gold and two are silver, terminals 1 and 3 on the relay fill the terminals on the fuseblock that you must jump. Read that part very carefully so that the wrong terminals are not crossed...it is accurately typed so don't worry. Be careful when jumping the terminals because if the radiotor fan motor is good, it will come on instantly regardless if the key is off or on. If the fan doesn't come on, chances are a BAD radiator cooling fan motor. If it does come on, chances are you probably have a bad relay.
***this is a basic test that checks for component failures only. It is not meant to identify issues related to wiring/harness issues and obviously assumes that all wiring is good. Use it ONLY for assistance. Good luck.***
#9
my acura is now having the same exact problems....did you ever find out if it was the fan motor or sensor? if it was neither, what was the issue and how much did it cost to replace? Any information will help....
thanks,,
thanks,,
#11
I am having the same issue with my CL. I am almost certain the radiator fan motor is bad because it spins with a hand start but does not kick in on its own. However, my condenser fan is not working as well.
Does anyone have any suggestions why the condenser fan (drivers side) would not be working when a/c is on? This is becoming a huge problem for me, see my other thread regarding the same issue
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-problems-fixes-71/rough-idle-c-problems-871689/
Does anyone have any suggestions why the condenser fan (drivers side) would not be working when a/c is on? This is becoming a huge problem for me, see my other thread regarding the same issue
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-problems-fixes-71/rough-idle-c-problems-871689/
#12
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I am having the same issue with my CL. I am almost certain the radiator fan motor is bad because it spins with a hand start but does not kick in on its own. However, my condenser fan is not working as well.
Does anyone have any suggestions why the condenser fan (drivers side) would not be working when a/c is on? This is becoming a huge problem for me, see my other thread regarding the same issue
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=871689
Does anyone have any suggestions why the condenser fan (drivers side) would not be working when a/c is on? This is becoming a huge problem for me, see my other thread regarding the same issue
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=871689
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