ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

So I'm getting my Alpine MRP-M450 and 12" JL Audio W3 installed this weekend. I'm having a box custom built at a nearby shop that will face the front of the vehicle and sit close to the back seat (with the sub angled up a bit). I requested it this way so I can still get longer items in the trunk (i.e. golf clubs/stroller).

I ran the power last night, using the same passthrough as the hood release line. I used the bracket on the spare tire holder for my ground (after some slight sanding).

Tonight I will be removing the factory sub and using a line output converter to grab the signal from those speaker wires. The one I got is nice because it also has the remote wire...no need to run one to the fuse box. This also requires that I wire it to the power and ground cables though.

I'm gonna have everything ready for the shop so once the box is built they can mount and bolt it to the car, then just connect everything to the amp (and mount the amp & LOC to the side of the box).

I like working on my own car when it's something I'm familiar with, and it's saving me money in the end. I couldn't fabricate a box though...I'm not that handy.

I'm hoping it will look relatively stock. I'll post pictures when it's done!

sarge_in

Cool! Look forward to pics and the hearing results! The sub is the weakest part of this otherwise decent sound system.

toneman14

cool post em up

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Best of luck Bronco. I hope this goes well for you!

KarKraze

You wanted to do this for a while,good luck!!!! Can't wait to see the finished product.

CCBBUUMM

Cant wait to see your pictures. I did a similar setup with different amp|sub because i too, wanted to have more space. I purchased a Fosgate PL2-112 and the ported box took up all the space in the trunk.

So, in order to save space i made a custom sealed box that would fit on the ledge in the space near the back seats and built a wall to hold the amp and hide the wires. Grounded to the spare tire was nice too. Below are a couple of images from my phone so i apologize for the blurriness.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Thank you all for your comments. CC, nice setup! Did you carpet or paint the box in the second pic?

I removed the stock sub last night. What a PITA! The back seat was indeed tough to remove, as others on here have stated. The pillars in the back were really tough to get out as well. There was one anchor that just didn't want to budge. Once I put them back in they don't seem to sit as flush either....hardly noticable though.

I got the LOC installed too and did a quick test to confirm everything worked. I'm without a sub now for a couple days so I'll get a little used to that and it should make the new system sound that much better.

Pics coming this weekend...

CCBBUUMM

Carpet.... Did you get your wire diagrams from the dealer? if not and you still need them, they print them out for you... or at least mine did

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I was hoping it was carpet but it's hard to see in the pic.

Thanks for the offer but I actually didn't need the wire diagrams. The LOC I used only required that I connect it to my power source, ground, and rear sub.

CCBBUUMM

What did you use for a LOC?

Flipster23

iTrader: (15)

In for pics!

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

I bought the "PAC SOEM-T 2-Channel Premium Line-Out Converter with Remote Turn-On" from the shop that is building my box. It's nice because the only cable I had to run from the front to the trunk was the power.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Well here's the finished product. I'm definitely happy with it. It's clean and saves a good amount of space in the trunk.

As you can see, they mounted the amp on the top. The LOC is mounted on the left side and they ended up facing the sub down...it sounds great!





Had to make sure they secured it so I can still enjoy the SH-AWD!!

AzNTLBoI37

Nice what i did with mine is i built a ported box for my Alpine Type R 10" and took out my factory and made a wall and cut out the port on top of the wall so the bass can travel thought that small port on top of the wall thought the factory sub hole and in the car..

Brew0360

You may want to ask the shop to fix the trunk lining above the sub. It is sagging on the right side.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Nice, I'm sure that sounds good. I opted for a sealed enclosure rather than ported, but I did remove the factory sub to allow more sound to enter the cabin. I had the passthrough open yesterday to see what a difference that made but something was rattling like crazy.

Yeah, I have to go in and fix that. I removed it when installing all the wiring. I figured the four clips would secure it the way it was before but I do need to do some adjusting. I noticed there is a bit of rubbing when I shut my trunk, from where the "arms" go into the lining.

AzNTLBoI37

[QUOTE=ucf_bronco;13428547]Nice, I'm sure that sounds good. I opted for a sealed enclosure rather than ported, but I did remove the factory sub to allow more sound to enter the cabin. I had the passthrough open yesterday to see what a difference that made but something was rattling like crazy.


The rattling is the two bar that ran across for the trunk lip you have to put something between it so it won't rattling that what i did to my TL when you take the factory sub out you can hear it plus you sub will make it shake and rattling try that and see how that goes

AzNTLBoI37

and the 2 bar is inside the cover so just pull down the cover and you will see it

Brew0360

You may want to sound deaden the rear deck. I ended up doing most of the car cuz TLs are known to rattle after adding aftermarket stereo equipment.

KarKraze

Looks good,the 12" JL probably pounds hard as well,i also have rattels but it is coming from the aero kit around the bumper and fenders,i plan to take care of that soon enough lol.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Thank you all again for the comments.

Fortunately the rattling isn't bad at all, and it's really only at certain frequencies. There are no rattles with the lower bass and it definitely hits hard!

I love how I can use the factory subwoofer setting as well. My wife is pregnant so I don't want the bass up when she's in the car.

I hate cars

Looks nice. Have any of you 4g guys done an infinite baffle setup yet? I bought my 3g new and it took a year before I could bring myself to install aftermarket speakes and 5 years before I would do an IB setup. Now that I've done it, I wish I had done it when the car was new. For my SQ setup, I have two 15s that take up practically zero trunk space. Just throwing it out there since I couldn't find any of these setups in a 4g. It's a nice alternative to the typical sealed and ported setups and offers light weight, little space taken up and lower power requirements.

It's just about time for a new car so was hoping to find someone that had done this already in one of these cars.

Brew0360

Sounds like you setup is more SPL than SQ with 2 15" subs. An IB setup shouldn't be an install issue if you like the sound it produces.

I hate cars

Not at all. It gets plenty loud but the reason for two 15s is SQ.

More cone area = less excursion = less distortion and more linear. These partucular subs use a lighter cone than most 10s at 152g. Great transients and amazing "pop" on rock and country music.

Since its IB, theres no air spring to deal with so efficiency is off the charts. 190w will push them to xmax at 20hz which used to take 1,000w to get the same output in my old setup. Less power required = less power compression.

Fairly low Qts and Fs and ultra low inductance gives a flat respnse from 15hz to over 1000hz.

The low inductance also greatly lowers distortion especially at high excursions.

What you end up with is a super power efficient ultra low distortion sub setup that will play 15hz notes that you can only feel and hit harder and tighter on rock than any 10 could dream of all the while excursion can barely be seen.

yungone501

iTrader: (4)

hello everyone, new member here!

islandlife

Im doing a little upgrade myself. Im having a JL W7 12" with custom ported box, powered by JL 1000 amp. Im also having the all 4 doors replace with Fosgate T-2652-S components. All controled with AudioControl DQXS Processor/EQ and i am having the rear deck speakers removed and deck deadened to control the rattling. Im having professional install so once is complete i will post pics. Sound sound pretty amazing when done. Now all i need is the NAVTOOL to be released to get the Navi screen freed from jail

islandlife

Oh yeah the doors will be powered by Fosgate T400-4

Brew0360

I'm not sure if the base TL has 6 1/2" speakers in the rear door, but the Tech has 3" speakers in the rear door and 6 1/2" on the rear deck. If you have 3' in the rear door, are you going to have the Fosgates custom installed? What about your tweeters? Even if you install the Fosgates on the rear deck you will need to do some custom work to install the tweeters. May I recommend that you have the shop show you the speaker location plan before you drop off your ride. I've replaced every speaker in my TL and it took me a year before I was satisfied with my system.

Brew0360

You may want to reconsider your processor chioce. I recommend choosing one that definitely has time alignment capability. Also make sure the processor has a separate controller that will allow you make changes to the overall system while driving. What sound good with the car parked may not sound great when your driving.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Time to reclaim my thread

I was having an issue with rattling, basically since the day I installed everything. Upon closer inspection I noticed the woofer was vibrating against the carpet in the trunk (box was built so it faces down). The suction created when it recedes was pulling the carpet up.

I tried to use velcro to keep the carpet down but that wasn't working, so this weekend I removed the carpet underneath the woofer. It works out great because the section I removed is almost entirely covered by the box. It not only doesn't rattle now, it sounds even louder! I don't know if it's the placebo effect or if it actually is louder since the bass is bouncing off metal and not carpet.

CCBBUUMM

I would dynamat the metal if i were you.

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

That's the (long-term) plan. I would like to dynamat the trunk lid and rear deck as well.

LawnPro

ucf - nice pics of your audio upgrade! What brand speakers do you recomend if thats all i want to upgrade for now?

islandlife

Here is Pic of my install

Brew0360

Did you lose your spare with the install? Also where is the rockford amp?

Livestrong_TL

Looks good

islandlife

Yes I lost the spare but I took it out once i put the 20" wheels on the car because it was useless and to help reduce weight. The Rockford Amp is above the Sub behind the wall. I didn't want to show it since i was trying to keep it matching since the other two pieces were silver.

islandlife

Thank you that was taken with phone i plan to take better pics with my Nikkon.

deltaboxxx

iTrader: (1)

i hope i didnt miss it, but im in the middle of installing my subs right now in my 2012 tech. does anyone know which fuse i can add a fuse to for my remote wire? thanks in advance, sorry if its been answered!

ucf_bronco

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man! I had MTX before my JL Audio and before those two (vehicles in my late teens and early twenties) all my subs were no-name brands.

I strongly recommend JL Audio. I have the one 12" and it's only a W3 but it sounds great! I listen to mostly hip hop and it really thumps.

I'm not near the level of some of the audio gurus on here though so they may have some better advice to offer.

Good luck!