godfather18

iTrader: (1)

So my car has had the check engine light come a few times in the past month so I went ahead and replaced the sensor which was bank two sensor 1 and after replacing the sensor I reset the ECU and the sensor stayed off for a few hours and then it came back on!! Now I dont know what the problem is!! Any input/help will be truly appreciated.

(I just hope I replaced the correct sensor which is behind the engine on top of the converter.)

(the code is P2197)

2004 TL 165K

Guiltyox

First, this needs to be posted in the "problems" section.

Secondly, what type of gas to put in your car usually (gas station and octane)? This is a lean code, which could come from a bad tank of gas.

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

I always use premium gas in my car from Sunoco? I read it could be the APP sensor?

Guiltyox

Hrmm, I typically like Sunoco myself. Notice any performance difference or notable difference with the car other than a CEL?

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

The only thing I noticed is when I press the gas pedal to drive fast I noticed slight hesitation almost like lack of power. But other than that she rides fine.

Guiltyox

Fuel Injectors? Anyone else want to chime in? Maybe try running some Fuel Injector cleaner through?

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Not certain. I've never had this code. Seems fuel or ignition related. I'd try doing some maintenance like chaning out plugs, cleaning contacts to injectors and plugs, making sure contacts are tights between plugs, injectors and sensors, etc.

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

The only question is why would it pull this code and say that its the AF sensor and after I replaced it the problem is still there. So it could be fuel related? Not the APP sensor??

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

I have no idea frankly. But typically when I've had a problem with a code that I wasn't able to fix, I started with doing maintenance such as cleaning contacts and replacing things (less expensive things that is). Much of the time it's just a loose connection or dirty contact that could cause the misread.

nfnsquared

Edit: Sorry, missed the last line in your post. Bank 2 is the front bank near the radiator. That's your problem, you replaced the wrong sensor. Need to replace the top sensor on the front bank. FYI, Bank 1 is defined by Cylinder #1.... (1,2,3 on Bank 1, or rear bank. 4,5,6 on Bank 2, or front bank).

firewall
123 -bank1
456 -bank2
radiator


Was that the only code found?

If it was, then you could still have a bad connection or installed the new one improperly. Did you replace it with an OEM sensor?

If the connections are all good, the sensor is an OEM replacement and the connections are all good, it could be because the DTC needs to be reset. You need an HDS or other high-end diagnostic tool to do that. Disconnecting the battery won't do it, most OBDII readers won't do it. Understand that resetting the MIL (battery disconnect or certain OBDII readers) is different than resetting DTC's (Honda Diagnostic System [HDS] or similar high end diagnostic tool).

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

Thats exactly what I did I replaced the one behind the engine not in front! Yes Denso OEM sensor but in the rear of the engine ah man here we go LOL.

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I went ahead and replaced that front sensor next to the radiator and reset the ECU and the light stayed off but when I started the car up this morning it came back on while the car was idling. Any ideas??

nfnsquared

Get the codes read again.

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

Just a FYI when I reset the ECU by pulling the ECU fuse when I start the car and let it idle for a few seconds the car would almost slightly misfire and then the light comes back on. But I will get the code ran today and post the code.

godfather18

iTrader: (1)

Ok i went and got the code ran and it came back with P2197 and it was the only code stored so im lost right now LOL.

nfnsquared

It's possible you may just need to drive it for a few days and it will eventually clear, dunno.

If not, then I'm leaning toward a bad connection/connector/wiring harness. Check the connections and the wiring harness at both ends.

Is the new sensor an OEM sensor?

I kind of doubt it, but you may have to have the DTC cleared with the HDS for it to go away permanently.

Beyond that, it's possible the new sensor is faulty.

oneworldforall

I have the same error code P2197. I am confuse as exactly which part number to get. I was told that it was a A/F ratio sensor which, according the majority of the online stores, seem to actually call it O2 or Oxygen sensor. After hours of research I believe it should be this part:

FR LAF SENSOR 36531-RDM-A01

Can someone confirm?

oneworldforall

I guess for others as myself who are not yet knowledgeable about cars, and who run into the same code p2197 here are the information I gathered to fix that error. [CORRECT ME IF ANY IS WRONG. Thanks]

Car code causing engine light: p2197

Part to replace: Air fuel ratio sensor. May be useful to know that it is also called A/F ratio sensor, AFR oxygen sensor but most online stores call them O2 or Oxygen sensor in which case you have look for specificications. For this one I gathered upstream, Pre-catalytic, stuck lean.

Oem Part: 36531-RDM-A01 SENSOR, FR. LAFPart # for different brand: Location: Bank 2 sensor 1
According to NFSSQUARED'S (which I want to point out had provided more help in this matter than anyone else it appears) previous comment can be found at: The best site providing the best diagram turned out to be:Hope my first post it helps.

(here is a cool song - https://soundcloud.com/rapwavenet/da...puterized-feat)

2004acuratlgreen

Hi, Just pulled a P2197 along with a P0420 CEL. It has been extremely cold here, heck like everywhere this winter of '15, cleared the codes, and been a couple days so far they have not returned. What I have read here and other places is that the Bank 2 sensor 1 needs to get to about 1200 degrees F, before it reads correctly sending the proper signal to the ECM. I'm wondering, absent of; load of bad gas, or faulty connections on the injectors, is it possible that sustained zero degree weather (wind chill out of sight) can effect the sensors operational perameters, being it has 140K on it.

Sure would like to know if anyone else has experienced CEL's together like this and what was the fix. Time will tell I guess if one of the sensors is going.

rijnsburg

My car has had this for months and months and months. sometimes I also get po420. I have changed, literally, everything possible to fix this, without delving into the fuel injectors. this is the LAST thing it could possibly be. My 04' RL has had a new genuine acura catalytic converter & exhaust, all new acura o2 sensors, TWICE!, new fuel filter, new platinum spark plugs, TWICE, new air filter, cleaned MAF, and replaced some other things I can't even remember now. I just bought this car in OCT and CEL came on in Nov and has been on almost constantly since then. The first time I added a super cleansing heaving duty fuel injection and system cleaner, I noticed and huge bump in gas mileage, I got almost 10 mpg more than I was. But that only lasted that one tank. Since then I've added a few more bottles, and even tried Marvel Mystery Oil. Each additive makes it better, for awhile. CEL will eventually go off by itself and stay off for awhile, but then it comes back on with same codes...p2197 O2 sensor detecting a lean fuel condition. So clearing the car is being starved of gas. Like a poster above, my only performance issue is when I hit the throttle hard on the highway. RPMS will shoot up but there's a delay with actual acceleration. after a few seconds the car will catch up, and lurch forward a bit. So I have to think Fuel injectors, or delivery. I have not replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve, and am wondering if it's more likely that, or an injector itself. A friend said he can run some heavy duty special detergent he uses in the garage he works in to clear fuel injectors, but it's not super cheap, and i haven't had time to leave it so I just keep throwing bottles of system and injector cleaners down the hatch hoping for a permanent fix. Will let you all know what solves it when I figure it out.

Giovanni L. Miranda

Did you find the issue or fix to this code? Thanks

Valens

So this code came on for me out of the blue for me. Here's the freeze frame data I got.

Freeze frame information:

------------------

Fuel Status = 0 byte
Engine Load = 36.863 %
Engine Coolant Temperature = 105.8 °F
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 1 Long Term = 7.812 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Short Term = 0 %
Fuel Trim Bank 2 Long Term = 7.031 %
Intake Manifold Pressure = 5.366 psi
Engine RPM = 957 rpm
Speed (OBD) = 0 mph
Timing Advance = 4.5 °
Intake Air Temperature = 98.6 °F
Throttle Position(Manifold) = 17.255 %
Relative Throttle Position = 7.059 %

End of report.

The things that stick out to me are the throttle position. I wasn't touch the throttle, is it really supposed to be at 17% when not touched? If anyone has any guidance on this, I'm all ears. I'd rather not blindly change out sensors. My scan tool can read a lot of data for diagnosis.

peter6

Check out on youtube how to check af sensors.

Basically you graph live data for all 4 sensors, and then with engine running you introduce vacuum leak and then add fuel (by spraying something flammable like brake cleaner or starter fluid or propane), and check how sensors react.

No idea if TL can do that, but some cars allow to introduce / subtract fuel with scan tool.

If you add a lot of extra fuel and that sensor is still reading lean, where all others are reading rich, then assume that sensor is bad.

Valens

Yea the procedure looks simple enough. However my obd bluetooth tool apparently can't ready O2 sensor voltage for some reason. Has anyone had success with O2 sensor voltage + Torque pro app? What bluetooth adapter do you use?

Valens

Update for anyone who cares. I wasn't able to read the O2 voltages with my OBD2 bluetooth adapter. So I just put in fresh gas and reset the light. It was kinda low when it came on, not sure if that had something to do with it. Hasn't come back on in 300 miles.