TL Diet 2.0/Track Car Build - Roll Cage Pg 51
#81
Just a question, but if you are going this drastic and in depth why not pull the nav, full dash and radio? Make a dash bar when you put a cage in and attach the cluster and what not to that?
And wipers are 10lbs?! Maybe the full system inc motor, linkage, and what not.
And wipers are 10lbs?! Maybe the full system inc motor, linkage, and what not.
Yes the weight for the wipers was the entire system.
I don't see any terribly huge advantage with the whole dash idea. Yes I've taken the weight loss pretty far but that would be a bit "over the top" in my book. The other thing that has to be remembered is that if I ever decide to do some actual competition with the car, it will have to meet the weight requirements for the class. When I helped build an 04 STI for NASA's TTB class, it worked out perfectly to strip just enough of the car to help offset the weight of the roll cage and other added bits so we didn't have to go through the hassle of adding weight back to meet the minimum weight. Now yes, it can be said that adding ballast can be good because you can put the weight exactly where you want it, but leaving bits like the dash in place made it rather convienent and inexpensive. So weight loss is always a good thing but I'm just saying that the absolute lightest TL in the world may not be the best thing for me at the moment.
Plus, I kinda like the dash still! lol
But I love hearing the ideas so keep em coming!
#82
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Damn fine reduction.
We have a member over on V-6-P that has a 7th gen accord coupe. He made his car a dedicated Track car and the total weight was 2655 lbs., 2800lbs with driver.
**The weight reduction methods, including the sunroof plug, cross over to the 98-02 Accords based on both Inaccurate's and vill0169's TL-diet threads.
We have a member over on V-6-P that has a 7th gen accord coupe. He made his car a dedicated Track car and the total weight was 2655 lbs., 2800lbs with driver.
**The weight reduction methods, including the sunroof plug, cross over to the 98-02 Accords based on both Inaccurate's and vill0169's TL-diet threads.
Yes the weight for the wipers was the entire system.
I don't see any terribly huge advantage with the whole dash idea. Yes I've taken the weight loss pretty far but that would be a bit "over the top" in my book. The other thing that has to be remembered is that if I ever decide to do some actual competition with the car, it will have to meet the weight requirements for the class. When I helped build an 04 STI for NASA's TTB class, it worked out perfectly to strip just enough of the car to help offset the weight of the roll cage and other added bits so we didn't have to go through the hassle of adding weight back to meet the minimum weight. Now yes, it can be said that adding ballast can be good because you can put the weight exactly where you want it, but leaving bits like the dash in place made it rather convienent and inexpensive. So weight loss is always a good thing but I'm just saying that the absolute lightest TL in the world may not be the best thing for me at the moment.
Plus, I kinda like the dash still! lol
But I love hearing the ideas so keep em coming!
I don't see any terribly huge advantage with the whole dash idea. Yes I've taken the weight loss pretty far but that would be a bit "over the top" in my book. The other thing that has to be remembered is that if I ever decide to do some actual competition with the car, it will have to meet the weight requirements for the class. When I helped build an 04 STI for NASA's TTB class, it worked out perfectly to strip just enough of the car to help offset the weight of the roll cage and other added bits so we didn't have to go through the hassle of adding weight back to meet the minimum weight. Now yes, it can be said that adding ballast can be good because you can put the weight exactly where you want it, but leaving bits like the dash in place made it rather convienent and inexpensive. So weight loss is always a good thing but I'm just saying that the absolute lightest TL in the world may not be the best thing for me at the moment.
Plus, I kinda like the dash still! lol
But I love hearing the ideas so keep em coming!
in that you can may have to add weight with a replacement dash, but it can be added down low though, and front to rear wise too, to help balance the car (or even side to side to help offset your weight; or to make the car handle better in one direction [since you always turn an additinal 360 degress one direction depending on what way you go around the track; clockwise or counter clockwise])
#83
^^^^ Yep exactly ^^^^^ I'm obviously not doing any sort of competition this year so who knows, this could be something to do next winter!Still have plenty on the expenses list for this year yet. Tires and brake pads for sure but would also like at least a front camber kit and maybe a few small engine mods. Would also like to upgrade coilovers but we'll see.
#84
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
also about that battery, maybe you should relocate it again, further foward, so it is within the axle centerlines/wheelbase, so it is not hanging behind the rear axle (again to get that weight centralized, and down low, like maybe on the rear passenger floorpan, but you are probably going to need a battery box first though)
#86
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Smaller wheels? Lighter, and effectively gives you a taller final gear ratio.
Smaller mirrors, maybe get rid of the exhaust tips. Check out Inaccurate's "Shark Mouth" grille, sidemarkers?
I'm kinda surprised you don't have a CF hood/trunk, that should get you some decent savings.
Getting creative here, anything you could delete from the headlights? Probably not, just throwing it out there. And I guess with no wiper assembly the right steering column stalk is useless, no?
I think you're getting really close to the end of the road when it comes to weight savings. Epic, nonetheless
Have you considered airbag removal? Maybe just the side airbags, keep the front two.
Smaller mirrors, maybe get rid of the exhaust tips. Check out Inaccurate's "Shark Mouth" grille, sidemarkers?
I'm kinda surprised you don't have a CF hood/trunk, that should get you some decent savings.
Getting creative here, anything you could delete from the headlights? Probably not, just throwing it out there. And I guess with no wiper assembly the right steering column stalk is useless, no?
I think you're getting really close to the end of the road when it comes to weight savings. Epic, nonetheless
Have you considered airbag removal? Maybe just the side airbags, keep the front two.
#87
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
Smaller wheels? Lighter, and effectively gives you a taller final gear ratio.
Smaller mirrors, maybe get rid of the exhaust tips. Check out Inaccurate's "Shark Mouth" grille, sidemarkers?
I'm kinda surprised you don't have a CF hood/trunk, that should get you some decent savings.
Getting creative here, anything you could delete from the headlights? Probably not, just throwing it out there. And I guess with no wiper assembly the right steering column stalk is useless, no?
I think you're getting really close to the end of the road when it comes to weight savings. Epic, nonetheless
Have you considered airbag removal? Maybe just the side airbags, keep the front two.
Smaller mirrors, maybe get rid of the exhaust tips. Check out Inaccurate's "Shark Mouth" grille, sidemarkers?
I'm kinda surprised you don't have a CF hood/trunk, that should get you some decent savings.
Getting creative here, anything you could delete from the headlights? Probably not, just throwing it out there. And I guess with no wiper assembly the right steering column stalk is useless, no?
I think you're getting really close to the end of the road when it comes to weight savings. Epic, nonetheless
Have you considered airbag removal? Maybe just the side airbags, keep the front two.
also this one may be a little bit of a pain in the ass, and not easily reversible, but start taking out any unused wiring, such as power door locks , audio system, rear power windows and so fourth along those lines
#88
'10 Hyundai Genesis Coupe
I suggest removing driver side fog light and create a custom intake duct and intake. It'll look sweet, I've seen it done on other cars, it actually looks quite neat.
I second the notion about the CF hood, the reported weight savings is nearly 20lbs.
I second the notion about the CF hood, the reported weight savings is nearly 20lbs.
#92
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
maybe also cut an opening in that front bumper where it says acura, to make sure you get additional air flow over the radiator, to make sure the temps stay within check (sometimes track cars are not the prettiest, since function has to supercede form)
Last edited by friesm2000; 01-29-2011 at 09:04 PM.
#93
Safety Car
Or add some cooling ducts....... although most people don't like the appearance
Photoshoped pics below from my Cooling Ducts (click here) thread.
Pegasusautoracing - Air Dam Air Inlet Ducts (click here)
Photoshoped pics below from my Cooling Ducts (click here) thread.
Pegasusautoracing - Air Dam Air Inlet Ducts (click here)
#95
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
#96
Im not sure if there are any restrictions on batteries chemistry in racing, but heres a secret i picked up from some of the electric car guys.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14617
the pack itself comes assembled at 37v. Lipo batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7. Wire up 4 sets of 2 cells in parrallel which would leave you with a 14.8v 10Ah battery that can supply 900A peak and 450A continuous. the whole battery weights 3.5 lbs. sure, the capacity is absolutely minuscule, but this pack should be able to start up the TL multiple times, no problem.
Oh, but Lipo is highly temperamental. Dont pierce it or overcharge it or it will be sure to explode.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14617
the pack itself comes assembled at 37v. Lipo batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7. Wire up 4 sets of 2 cells in parrallel which would leave you with a 14.8v 10Ah battery that can supply 900A peak and 450A continuous. the whole battery weights 3.5 lbs. sure, the capacity is absolutely minuscule, but this pack should be able to start up the TL multiple times, no problem.
Oh, but Lipo is highly temperamental. Dont pierce it or overcharge it or it will be sure to explode.
#98
Im not sure if there are any restrictions on batteries chemistry in racing, but heres a secret i picked up from some of the electric car guys.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14617
the pack itself comes assembled at 37v. Lipo batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7. Wire up 4 sets of 2 cells in parrallel which would leave you with a 14.8v 10Ah battery that can supply 900A peak and 450A continuous. the whole battery weights 3.5 lbs. sure, the capacity is absolutely minuscule, but this pack should be able to start up the TL multiple times, no problem.
Oh, but Lipo is highly temperamental. Dont pierce it or overcharge it or it will be sure to explode.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14617
the pack itself comes assembled at 37v. Lipo batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7. Wire up 4 sets of 2 cells in parrallel which would leave you with a 14.8v 10Ah battery that can supply 900A peak and 450A continuous. the whole battery weights 3.5 lbs. sure, the capacity is absolutely minuscule, but this pack should be able to start up the TL multiple times, no problem.
Oh, but Lipo is highly temperamental. Dont pierce it or overcharge it or it will be sure to explode.
#99
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Join Date: Dec 2007
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Sounds expensive, but if you were to sell all the stuff that you've removed from the TL, it wouldn't cost a cent.
#100
Nope. Only 150. Each pack comes with 10 cells in it. I know the price says 161 on it, but hang around long enough on that site and a little pop up comes up saying "hey, we see you've been looking at this item, buy it now for 150".
When you get the pack, tear it down, and change the configuration from the stock configuration of 10s to 4s2p (you will have 2 cells left over).
if you want no fuss, you could always use this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11957
its simply the same thing except just 4s (which has a nominal voltage of 14.8v) Again, it should be able to start the TL right up. Id just like a slightly bigger battery. its only $76 and only weights 1.5lbs!!!
When you get the pack, tear it down, and change the configuration from the stock configuration of 10s to 4s2p (you will have 2 cells left over).
if you want no fuss, you could always use this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11957
its simply the same thing except just 4s (which has a nominal voltage of 14.8v) Again, it should be able to start the TL right up. Id just like a slightly bigger battery. its only $76 and only weights 1.5lbs!!!
#101
Spent yesterday putting the MDX spacer on the car and did some painting on the valve covers and part of the intake manifold. Did Wrinkle red on the valve covers and wrinkle black on the IM, then polished off the Logo stuff so it's nice and shiny new. Just got bored of looking at grey under the hood all the time!
Also permenately plugged the heater core coolant lines and did the throttle body bypass while I was in there.
Also permenately plugged the heater core coolant lines and did the throttle body bypass while I was in there.
#106
Safety Car
In the pics, I see that you still have oem engine mounts. You need to get some Innovative or XLR8 (Excelerate) polyurethane mounts. Get the 75A or 85A. These mounts will substantially increase the steering feel by providing additional frame reinforcement.
#109
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
, you are adding precious weight back into the car with that painting
also on that TB bypass, did you at least loop it back on itself?, if not i would do that... and the reason being is that it helps the engine warm up more evenly, due to not getting hotspots (from no coolant circulating) UNTIL the thermostat opens up (which will eventually cause cracking issues)
but also it will help bleed/purge any potential air (ie: potential cavitation from the water pump) that might get stuck behind the thermostat, and keeping it from opening properly
also on that TB bypass, did you at least loop it back on itself?, if not i would do that... and the reason being is that it helps the engine warm up more evenly, due to not getting hotspots (from no coolant circulating) UNTIL the thermostat opens up (which will eventually cause cracking issues)
but also it will help bleed/purge any potential air (ie: potential cavitation from the water pump) that might get stuck behind the thermostat, and keeping it from opening properly
#110
, you are adding precious weight back into the car with that painting
also on that TB bypass, did you at least loop it back on itself?, if not i would do that... and the reason being is that it helps the engine warm up more evenly, due to not getting hotspots (from no coolant circulating) UNTIL the thermostat opens up (which will eventually cause cracking issues)
but also it will help bleed/purge any potential air (ie: potential cavitation from the water pump) that might get stuck behind the thermostat, and keeping it from opening properly
also on that TB bypass, did you at least loop it back on itself?, if not i would do that... and the reason being is that it helps the engine warm up more evenly, due to not getting hotspots (from no coolant circulating) UNTIL the thermostat opens up (which will eventually cause cracking issues)
but also it will help bleed/purge any potential air (ie: potential cavitation from the water pump) that might get stuck behind the thermostat, and keeping it from opening properly
But man the little torque jump from that spacer is fantastic on such a light car!
#111
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Looking goof! But I bet you could save an additional 5 pounds just by cleaning the engine bay
#113
B A N N E D
iTrader: (4)
and the mdx spacer, i bought one, then relize it was not going to even fit under my 2g hood , but also it was not going to work with my aftermarket strut brace, so i had to sell it
Last edited by friesm2000; 02-03-2011 at 05:06 PM.
#120
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
nice!!! i hate my 4 spoke "wheel".
one of the spokes always gets in the way when im taking corners...
I think I'm going to take off my bluetooth and voice command buttons on the steering wheel to help alleviate untill i have the funds for a tl-s "wheel" plus accompany airbag.
one of the spokes always gets in the way when im taking corners...
I think I'm going to take off my bluetooth and voice command buttons on the steering wheel to help alleviate untill i have the funds for a tl-s "wheel" plus accompany airbag.