97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, it should just wiggle and come loose, there are 2 plastic clips under the bumper that you have to slide up and off of, Nate, did you take the 4 bolts off behind the bumper with a socket extension?

South Jersey CL

well it turned out my calipers weren't seized...my pads were worn down to the point where the little metal warning stick was rubbing against the rotor. should have it back today!

Miiike

iTrader: (4)

I'm getting a new gauge cluster for my car and it's mileage reads lower than what's actually on my car, it wouldn't be illegal to change that right? if not does anyone know how to do it without breaking stuff?
i just want it to read the right mileage, i'm not doin anything shifty

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Nothing's illegal in canadia

I broke 1000 miles this summer on the CL

mattastick

What he said... And I just broke 140k awhile ago, but I'm actually probably closer to 150k or so. No working speedometer ftw...

Miiiike, I'd think there's a way that you could turn the numbers to read whatever you want... You could probably make your car brand new again if you really wanted...

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

Mmmkay, I got a good question.
How do you replace the stock muffler with an aftermarket one? Do you have to take it in to get it replaced? If so, how much would that cost?

f22vtec

stop! buy springs or coil overs lolll s techs on a 3.0 are good too man look into them im using stock replacement struts too.

mattastick

Does anyone know if there is something in the ECU or elsewhere that controls what voltage our alts charge at? Over the past couple weeks or so, I've noticed the alt not charging up to 14.4v like it should. It always charges at 14.3-4 on the highway, but in town it's spotty. Sometimes it'll charge at 14.3-4 and other times it'll charge at 12.5-6... Then, other times (like today), it'll charge at 12.5-6 when I touch the gas, but if/when I let off, it jumps to 14.3-4... I'm totally confused by this, so I figured I'd ask the pros at A-zine... The batt is good, I just had it charged up on the XS Power charger last weekend, and it held well above 13.5v for several hours like it should've...

Myxomatosis

^^there should be a voltage regulator in the alternator itself. To me it sounds like you are just focusing on it too much, are you having any problems with it or just happen to be monitoring?

The voltage should drop and raise, if the battery is full it will drop, take out some juice and it'll need to bump up the voltage, it's kind of a constant thing, if the battery is shot than the alt will be at 14.4 or whatever almost all the time, since it would be trying to charge a dead battery that cannot be charged. You should also be able to buy and replace that regulator if there is actually a problem, but usually it's not worth the time/cost, since alt's are fairly cheap.

Myxomatosis

I actually have a question and it's only because I haven't worked on the 3.0 much but my engine seems to be missing quite a bit and yesterday I pulled out of a parking spot and it sounds like the engine almost died, only happened once, but kind of worries me.

I don't know if I should work on my electrical system(i.e. dist, cap, rotor, wires and plugs) or wait till it throws a code so it gets all replaced under that beautiful warranty. I'm assuming that's where my problem is but anyone have any thoughts. More about what the problem could be than if I should wait.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

sure it wasn't your tranny not catching? Were there any other signs or symptoms?

mattastick

This would be true if I was watching the voltage at the battery. But my voltage gauge is at the amp in the back.

The reason I'm worrying about it is that when I push my amp (it's already running below rated impedance) I don't want to blow anything because of low voltage. Now, the amp will probably be fine until the voltage drops into the 11s, but still. You go drop several hundred dollars on an amplifier (when you're a broke college kid) and then tell me you're not going to watch it like a hawk... Yeah, I figured you would too...

So, what you're telling me, is that since my battery is fully charged, and no being drained by the amp/system/car, the alt doesn't charge above 12.5v? That doesn't seem to make any sense to me... And seeing as my battery is supposed to be charging at like 14.6+, it's kinda a big deal to me...

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Matt, do you have an issolated battery or cap for your amp?

mattastick

No Chris, just the 1 XS D5100R up front. Everything was working fine not too long ago, but recently, the voltage has gone down the drain, and I really don't know what's going on...

Myxomatosis

well, I didn't know the circumstances. That doesn't sound good, I believe the voltage even on a fully charged battery should be in the 13's, all way I know this is from experience, every time I do check my power if there's a problem or not, it's in the 13's if the alternator isn't being pushed and nothings actually wrong.

I might take a life line on this and call my father for you, he knows far more than me when it comes to electronics. Let me get back to you on what the voltages should be for the various instances.

Myxomatosis

It was like a stutter, the tranny came to mind, but I feel like it's a fuel/air/ignition problem. I never did change my fuel filter yet, my air filter was just cleaned a week ago but all I've done to the ignition is change the plugs last year.

I do get the cold start tranny issues of taking a second to catch but I've had that for a year now, and it was fine in the hot summer. So imo it seems like it could be anything. The engine does have a tick, and like I said at idle you can hear/feel it missing. oh yeah, and I'm at 99,000+mi.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Myo did you do the EGR recall? Free tune up and what not?

Myxomatosis

yeah last summer, but I think they just replaced the egr, I know the entire ignition system was part of the warranty but idk if they did it. I have to go look, I've been so busy, about all I can do is type.

Madtown Marcus

Hey everyone,

New to this forum stuff. Need to vent. Let me clear the air first.

Vehicles I have owned in chronological order. 97 Z24 Cavalier (Total Loss) 98 Z24 Cavalier, 01 Honda Prelude, 01 Honda Accord, 97 Acura Integra, 98 Honda Civic EX, 03 Nissan Xterra SE/SC, 06 Mazda 6, a 08 BLK Honda Accord EX coupe, and now this...

Since I am taking a trip down memory lane, can anyone tell me the relevance of a honda prelude, besides the throaty sound it made atr about 4500rpms, and the nice factory system?

Well to the topic at hand. Just bought a 97 CL 3.0 from some kid. Love the new CL. It reminds me of my old Blk 01 Accord ex coupe that I had for years until my gf totaled it.

So now that I made the mistake of trying to accomplish a routine break job (pads, and rotors)....Two weeks later the car is still on blocks I decide to to somethings. Purchasing a CAI was the first thing that came to mind. I am not the smartest guy, but for some reason when I look for a CAI for the 97 6cyl there is no CAI made for it besides one I stumbled upon. I have a J30 engine. The same engine that is used in the 98-02 accords, and the remainder of the 1st gen CLs. Why did I have to resort to buying a Secret Weapon Intake, that i am sure will fall drastically short of its name! Thoughts?

Thanks for listening,

Marcus

Oh, and what's up with the 4 bolt configuration for the wheels? It's a 6 cyl!

Madtown Marcus

Me Again!

I am sure you guys know this already but I stumbled upon this sight when looking for OEM parts. I am currently in the middle of a break job replacing the pads, rotors, some Acura emblems, (had to 86 the gold!) and other odds and ends. This site is an actually acura dealership that sells OEM for under aftermarket prices. If anything bookmark it and allway reference it. It all do shows you exploded diagrams of your part and the surrounding parts. Sweet. Just and FYI

http://www.oemacuraparts.com

If you have a 97 CL use this link:

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/partloc...layCatalogid=0

Madtown Marcus

Lastly

First let me apologize for the awful grammar on that last post (refer to post #1, and I quote "I am not the smartest guy, but..." Also I am not sure if this is the place to ask, but I have a mini wish list and maybe some of you can guide me to the right spots. FYI I have exhausted Ebay!

Front Lip - (WW Style) White would be a bonus!
Rear Ground molding - Less aggressive
Rear Spoiler - Similar to factory if not the same!
Black 17" Rims ASA's, or ADR's (no 5 stars) 8 or more spoke

Thanks!

Marcus

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Wow, lots of questions, I'm going to try and answer all of them, the 97 Brakes are a pain, but perhaps this guide may help you.
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-diy-faq-74/97-3-0cl-brake-rotors-how-end-all-rumors-493677/

If you check out this thread,
https://acurazine.com/forums/1g-cl-1997-1999-56/%2A%2A%2Anoob-guide-read-first-before-posting%2A%2A%2A-478508/
you will see that our 3.0's need the intake from the 98-02 accord which as you mentioned have the same engine, so search for 98-02 accord v6 intakes and you'll find a ton that will fit. There's also a lot of good info about our CL's in that thread, if you would like to contribute anything to it, just let me know.

Yep, a lot of us use that site, the one I prefer is www.acuraautomotiveparts.org but both are pretty much identical.

Ebay is your best friend for this stuff, you can def find a ww lip on ebay, check out the n00b guide posted above for info about rear lips, most of us use 94-97 accord rear lips. You can also find oem wings on ebay, either primered or painted. And ADR's are everywhere on ebay, just gotta search around, I know our lug pattern sucks. Hope that gives you some guidance and direction. And welcome to the forums

mattastick

So I may have answered my own question. It seems our cars have something on them that basically kills the alt when it senses the battery is "fully charged". So if you do something to drain it, like turn on the corner/marker lights, it'll charge at 14+. I tried it when I was driving around town during lunch, and it works so far. Gonna try it on the way home pushing the stereo a bit, just to see what it does... Hope this helps anyone else that my run into this problem...

Madtown Marcus

Thanks Blk for all the intel. I checked out that OEM website you suggested. I will admit they do have a ton of stuff. One advantage of the other site (the one I mentioned) was the have more pictures and diagrams. Also thanks for those links. I am going to attack my passenger side tomorrow.

FYI. Weaver Auto Parts (like an O Riley's, Auto Zone ect.) charged me only $40.00 to press out my hub assembly vs. Acura Service that would have charged $150. Now thanks to that Forum link, I realized that I don't have to take that hub apart. Either way the Break job for this car is a pain in the you know what. I can't speak for those Cl's that don't reside in northern states, but this WI car was a monster. Even with an impact wrench that bad boy fought me tooth and nail all the way. He was a worthy advisory!

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

So I got my A'PEXi N1 muffler installed a little while ago and noticed this:



The diameter of that "kink" or bend is 2.11in. The muffler is 2.33in and the stock pipes are 2.25in. Is this gonna be a problem?

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I don't know that it would be a problem, but that piece of piping is so short, you could get a new piece welded on for super cheap

incredulous1

get it mandrel bent

Madtown Marcus

Wood be gone!
So I bought my 97 Acura CL 3.0 with little to complain. Thx to Klepto (Forum member) I have an idea of how I want the exterior of the vehicle to end up looking like. Unfortunately I am not impressed with the faux wood grain interior dash trim. My old 01 Accord couple was nice and black, don't know why Acura went this direction. Kinda gay! Any suggestions out there on how to change it, or if there are any pics out there for ideas i.e. carbon fiber, Aluminum, black ect. to change it to. I do know you can buy the 3M sticker kits, but is that a good idea? Thoughts?

Thanks

Madtown Marcus


ps, I posted this in a different thread. Still new to this forum stuff. Not the most intuitive site.

Madtown Marcus

To answer most of your questions right off the bat, YES. I did check all the forums regarding intakes. I went with this brand because is was the only one that listed the 97 ACURA CL 3.0 as a approved model. Every vendor I called to make sure that the intake would fit to spec said that to only buy ones that say they fit on your make and model. My other question was if we were to use the 98 accord intake (same engine blah blah blah) then why would they just add the CL to the list and open a greater market share? So logically I thought that some must be different.

So I get this intake in the mail today. Yeah I am a little excited. After taking the old air filter out and all the plastic I start to read the directions. The damn thing comes with multiple rubber fittings acting pretty much like a universal part. Now the vacuum line coupler (fyi I don't know what I am talking about) is pressed hard against the piping making a very sharp angle for the new tubing to flow from the intake into the line. Also the holes where the two tubes get connected into the intake are right behind the battery making this intake not CL specific. As a bonus. this SRI gives you an accordian style tubing to attach to the end of your SRI if you want to drop the end of the tubing down in your fender. Well whatever I guess I really don't have an opinion on that.

Well moment of truth. I take it for a spin. Damn! It does sound sweet and I do notice some added power. The CL now reminds me of the throaty sound my old 01 Prelude made when I hit 4500 rpms. So I am happy at this point.

So I am done beating on my CL and I slow down to pull up in front of my condo. As I slow I hear this shop vac sound coming from under my hood, and it is loud. You can hear it from 5 houses down. This loud resonating sounds is coming I think from the the extension tubing that sits in the fender.

Question. a. Is this normal.

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Those stick on dash kits are crap, I bought one, and the foam they're shipped in actually imprinted into the kit and ruined it, they're shit, really.

I did however wrap my wood grain in real 2x2 CF and have it molded, cleared, and polished. I like it 100 times better than the wood





It matches my gauges


Yes, sadly the humming is normal with a short ram, removing the resonator in the bumper is supposed to help, other people have stuffed towels in there as well. I just got a CAI

Madtown Marcus

Looks good Black! I was just hoping to make it look timeless. By timeless I mean wood trim screams late 90's, and bad wood trim at that! I'm am going to shy away from cf thing because...well I am 32. I was hoping to do just a semi gloss black or maybe Aluminum. I will take your advice and 86 the sticker idea. So how did you get those interior trim pieces off?
Oh and I am really curious on how your LED display turns out. Seem like a ton of work! Good luck.

Madtown Marcus

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

I have pics of my wood grain when I had it painted satin black, and it looked pretty classy, let me see if I can dig any up

Madtown Marcus

What paint did you use Black? A black satin with a couple coats of clear coat? I want to see those pics

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Mine wasn't cleared, but it should have been, I used Krylon Fusion Plastic Bonding Spray Paint, I have pics, I will put them up

hOnU

gf noticed some sort of "flapping" noise coming from front passenger side near the wheel well..any idea of what it could be?

made it back to my house and jacked the passenger side of the car up and tried to see if there was something stuck like a sticker or plastic bag caught or anything! didn't notice anything except that i know that my CV boot was cracked but not all the way through, but i'm getting them replaced on monday. i did notice that there was a lot of grease covering most of the boot. could that possibly be the "flapping" noise?

hopefully i can make it down to my mechanic which is about 40miles away..

hOnU

nm found the problem...crack in the inner side of the rim..deemed unsafe to drive

goodbye g-racing seki's

GhettoNinja06

iTrader: (1)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

How the hell did that happen?? How could you possibly crack such a rare wheel!? You can't find those anywhere in 18"s! I wanted them!! haha.

incredulous1

brandon, cant you just replace one wheel?

hOnU

there has been a lot of road construction around town and i guess i wasn't careful enough..i had them on for about 2 years..so i guess its time to move on..

it is fixable, i got quoted $150. PM me an offer if you like them so much!

hOnU

they stop making these about 3 years ago or so..