athlonxp

Hey all,

This post is just what the title states. I just finished doing my rotors and it wasn't difficult. Unlike the rumor that has been going around about how the hub is pressed on over the rotor, it's not true.

After having lift your car and set on jackstands, remove the wheels and here we go...

1. Remove the caliper and caliper mounting bracket. Don't remove the lines unless you want to bleed them afterwards. Instead use some wire and let it hang. Set the bracket aside.

2. Next remove the ABS wheel sensor along with the line that goes along the knuckle. Also, unbolt the brake hose bracket from the knuckle.

3. Now, using a long prybar place it between two of the four wheel studs and the ground, the ground being the opposing force to keep the hub from turning. Then using a 36mm socket and a half inch rachet with a long pipe for leverage, unbolt the axle nut.

3. Next, unbolt all items on the lower control arm. That includes the damper fork, the radius rod, and the sway bar links. Then using a 17mm socket undo the bolt that holds that lower control arm to the chassis.

4. After doing that the knuckle and hub assembly can be turned out freely after pushing the axle completely through the hub.

5. Next there are four bolts behind the knuckle assembly that holds the hub in place. Remove the four bolts and using a hammer tap the hub out in a clockwise pattern. The whole hub assembly with the rotor will fall out.

6. Now this is the interesting part that doesn't require you to undo the wheel bearing and hub. With the hub laying on the wheel studs the rotor could simply be turned and lift off the back of the hub without any effort.

7. Put the new rotor on and installation is reverse of removal.


Sorry folks I didn't take any pics it was pouring out and I got drenched didn't want to take a chance with the camera. But if any of you were to attempt this the above guide will save you lots of guessing work. The first rotor took me nearly four hours to do. As it required several trips to the Parts store and back. Well, I found out that my sway bar link kit was bad and the lower ball joint was busted and dried. I know Acura had a recall but don't want to take any chances. Maybe they'll reimburse me.

The second rotor took me an hour. So if I were to do it again it would be two hours max maybe less.

Hopefully this is helpful to all you DIY-ers. If you have any questions I will be glad to answer them.

Good night all,
James

baka_t

This is the honda-tech's secret. It cuts the time down to around 20mins a side.

athlonxp

Well, I guess it's not a secret anymore. And I don't recall this method was posted anywhere before, it would of been hella helpful.

BTW, I put on Brembo blanks and Akebone Ceramic pads. God Damn!!!!! That was one big difference. It should be actually since I have 96,500 miles on the car and this is the first time the rotors were changed. I was so afraid of paying the high prices of changing the rotors or of the work involved that I was putting it off. The vibrations were horrible, braking had to be done at a great distance.

Thanks God it's over though!!!

-James

klepto

good stuff! maybe i'll get around to trying it one day. Me and a friend tried doing it once and getting off that center axle bolt was a bitch, we couldnt do it. so we just gave up =T

Chen

Good work! This will be a big help someday. Thanks.
Brakes are next on the list....

98AcuraCLpimp

fuck! we need all these write ups in one section! MOD!!!!!!!! oh, and good job g

ShibbyDevil

hey.... how much did you pay for your brembo blanks? where did you get 'em from?

ju5tchi11in

the groupbuy.... search the threads.

athlonxp

Thanks all for the replies!!

I got the blanks for $50 a pair and the Akebono brake pads were $40. I work for Advance Auto Parts and I got these at cost from the company's local source.

-James

ShibbyDevil

hey... since he got these on the group buy... i assume it is all over.... where to get em now? thanks.

97Acura3.0CL

are you rotors slotted or drilled? can you get more sets? let me know

ill pay you a finders fee as well for them all i need is pads and rotors for front and rear

let me know its good money for ya so....


aol im: jgiguere17

97Acura3.0CL

bump for some help

does anyone have pics of this process? or anyone that can help me in the bay area?

babyloc86

brembo group buy is still going on. jerry the seller is still selling them for the same price to a-cl members.

dvbrien

An Impact Would be very helpfull here... I literally could stand and bounce on mine with a 4 foot breaker bar and I actually moved the car from the other wheel, being on the ground turning backwards,

realeyezsoul

nice right up mang ill be doing this in the coming weeks im you saved my time!

DivineCL

Excellent DIY instructions.

shineynitelite

check the date noob

DivineCL

Ooops.










BTW - You're :ghey:

Thought I'd remind you.

shineynitelite

NOOOOOBBBB this threads about as old as you are.. (a-cl speaking)

97BlackAckCL

iTrader: (6)

Very good description, sounds like a pain in the ass, but very helpful and imformative

DivineCL

I noticed.

You're no vet yourself.

:troutslap










BTW - You're still my SON, and I still love you despite your rebilliousness.

shineynitelite

DivineCL

Father & Son

shineynitelite

p.s. change your avatar i hate it

DivineCL

Why?

Your avatar is :ghey: but you don't see me complaining.

BTW - I hate your stupid bird.

shineynitelite

youu have had that some one for about forever!!.. change it!!! my bird would kick your ass!

DivineCL

Son, how are you going to hate on your own father?

Everyone seems to like it. You're the first one I hear complaining about it.
Did your girl give you morning blue balls?

spooky187

Acura 2.2 CL 97'
2.2CL 1997

But this is all new to me and took a while to find.
I was wondering if these pictures went along with what the directions here are:

http://murtaughs.tripod.com/murtaughs/instruction.htm

I was thinking of doing a conversion using acura 2.3cl 99' front brakes, and i might still do them since i "think" it is still easier to do.

This is the link to change it over:

http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...ight=acura+2.2

Im planning on doing the simple way, using the smaller rotors 10.2.
I just am worried the rotors and pads won't fit, because i already had ordered the parts for the acura 2.2CL 97' prior to knowing it was such a pain in the ass!

So i was wondering if anyone knew it mattered much...here are the specs between the two.

Acura 2.2CL 97':

http://www.hondanews.com/CatID3074?m...&archives=1997

(2.2CL)
Ventilated, 10.24in (260mm)
diameter, .91 in (23 mm) rotor
thickness

Acura 2.3CL 99':

http://www.hondanews.com/CatID3074?m...&archives=1999

(2.3CL) Ventilated, 10.2 in (260 mm) diameter, 0.9 in (23 mm) rotor thickness


I'd like to get this straightened out and then im going to post pictures and everything, because its seems like im not the only one looking around without luck. below is what i ordered for the Acura 2.2CL 97'

1 Brembo sport slotted rotor(pr) In Stock $152.00 $152.00
1 Hawk hps street/sport pads In Stock $52.00 $52.00

jumpmanbsktbll

k

elkay

thank you!

you wouldnt know what torque the axle nut is supposed to be when putting it back on would u?

iansanderson

The service manual states:

108 Nm or 181 lb-ft

don't forget to stake the new spindle nut down

if you don't have a torque wrench, its better to undertighten this nut as overtightening will cause premature wheel bearing failure and make it very difficult to remove the nut in the future.

elkay

awesome. thank you

i have a brand new torque wrench i get to finally use

elkay

108 Nm = 79.65 Lb/ft
according to my conversion..

nadd

hey guys,

ive been trying to get the hub off, but I think its just seized right in there! It refuses to get off the knuckle. What do you mean really by...

.....using a hammer tap the hub out in a clockwise pattern. The whole hub assembly with the rotor will fall out....

Could someone post some pics about where exactly to tap? The back of the hub in the knuckle where the wheel bearing is? But I dont really want replace my bearing so... trying to not destroy it.

Another question. You get these hub removal tools from Adv. auto. I rented one today to try but it get attached to the wheel hub on the wheel studs and pulls there and u push by tightening a nut onto the drive shaft! I dont really know whether thats a good load to be putting onto your tranny? Has anyone had this issue of a freaking stuck hub/knuckle/wheelbearing assembly?!!

iansanderson

if the car has been exposed to salt, it is highly unlikely you will be able to "tap" the hub/bearing assembly out. Maybe there are some cases of it happening, but i've never seen it living in Ohio.

Be very careful tapping the hub area. It is easy to accidentally dent the bearing lip which may not be hugely detrimental to its function, but may cause the driveshaft to not seat properly or the bearing to fail early. I've heard of some trying to hit on the rotor to remove it. That's entirely up to you, but you will ruin the rotor doing that.

It may be a good idea to take the entire knuckle to a shop and have it removed with a press. I had to do it with my last 2 accords and on the first one, the old rotor exploded when it finally came apart.

elkay

i used a large pipe, placed it on, hammered on it ..
worked fine.. added some wd30 into the mix for one side as it was seized a bit..

dunno what this clockwise business was about.. hammered straight down on the pipe

minorityCL

Hey Spooky...

How and where did you get those prices for the Brembo rotors and teh price for the Hawk pads?

Let us all know asap as we are all curious.