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Took my car to get tuned yesterday. The day before, my water injection pump failed so I swapped the wastegate springs back down to the 12lbs. Even at 11.7lbs of boost running e85 with no water injection, it still made 450whp on the dyno. Want to know the best part? No timing/fuel adjustments were made. My street tune was spot on! Chew on that e-tuners. Lol. Jk.
Hahah I knew it was you. Mapped your up address to your location. Lol
Lmao, damn Dick Tracy! So I guess you're officially declining my offer then?
Btw, funny you mention about the race you won. My son and I were coming home last night from a family dinner when were encountered by a gsxr750. We won two runs back to back. I was thrilled to death about it. True story.
I think when I head back to California in want to me a few changes to the setup. First thing would be to get rid of the dump tube and make it recirculating back into the exhaust. In addition I would like to have all the hot piping and turbo hot side coated with white lighting and then wrapped to keep good temp down.
I've done it all ways man, wrap, shielding, coatings, etc. In regards to which single one is more effective, definitely the wrap. The coatings and shields by themselves, though effective, aren't quite on the same level. I personally do a combo of all three to get the most heat protection. Though it's not pretty, each one has there own strength or advantage over the other. The coatings are best at slowing the transfer of heat. The wrap is best at holding the heat. And the shields are best at blocking radiant heat.
If if you do your own testing, you will find that the wrap absolutely destroys ceramic coatings in performance. And you can double up the thickness of the wrap to get even greater results. To me, coating performance does not justify the cost. If you're an all out race team that have extreme packaging issues or limitations, then spending the extra funds on the coatings may be worth it. They are very fragile, require a break in phase, expensive and can flake under extreme heat if there's a flaw anywhere in the coating or application of the coating.
I've done it all ways man, wrap, shielding, coatings, etc. In regards to which single one is more effective, definitely the wrap. The coatings and shields by themselves, though effective, aren't quite on the same level. I personally do a combo of all three to get the most heat protection. Though it's not pretty, each one has there own strength or advantage over the other. The coatings are best at slowing the transfer of heat. The wrap is best at holding the heat. And the shields are best at blocking radiant heat.
If if you do your own testing, you will find that the wrap absolutely destroys ceramic coatings in performance. And you can double up the thickness of the wrap to get even greater results. To me, coating performance does not justify the cost. If you're an all out race team that have extreme packaging issues or limitations, then spending the extra funds on the coatings may be worth it. They are very fragile, require a break in phase, expensive and can flake under extreme heat if there's a flaw anywhere in the coating or application of the coating.
What coating are you referring to? The white lightning coating is much thicker than any of the others that are similar to Jet-Hot coating. Im going the white lightning route on mine as well. I'll have to evaluate it on its own before I consider using wrap - I'm not a fan of header wrap at all.
I want to coat the pipe for a few reason. First the down pipe was made of of mild steel and warping it traps moisture in between the material and metal. I get a funny smell after driving the car from the header wrap if it has gotten wet. It could be that the heater wrap was cheap to begin with in the first place. Secondly, I think having it insulated with both material will help prevent the surrounding plastic and rubber hoses from melting if it does somehow come in contact with the down pipe. Also less radiate heat on rubber and plastic parts will help it last longer.
Wrap wrap and more wrap then shield anyplace you are to worried about, as far as wrap trapping moisture uuuummmm at 500 Deg things dry out really fast LOL, I like coatings if you can afford it,
I think it helps keep the hot side from cracking (if coated on the inside) but if you think you can run just coatings and no wrap you are wrong and milting stuff if in your future, I really like all the stuff Yungone has done to his car for heat protection it makes for a safe and reliable car, my advice would be save your money and buy a bunch of DEI titanium wrap and double or even triple wrap the worrisome parts and don't itch your eyes it really is uncomfortable LOL
What coating are you referring to? The white lightning coating is much thicker than any of the others that are similar to Jet-Hot coating. Im going the white lightning route on mine as well. I'll have to evaluate it on its own before I consider using wrap - I'm not a fan of header wrap at all.
My opinion comes from both personal experience and also based on comparisons from other people. My own setup is done by a local friend who has his own shop (Xtreme Powdercoating here in DFW) and though it doesn't appear to be quite as thick as plasma coatings such as the White Lightning, it's still real world info. As for most others, it's often mentioned that there is a reduction in heat but most (if not all) say that wrapping was superior. I've researched this to a great extent and at one time was also considering the same product Ken is considering but felt I may have been disappointed in the end.
Originally Posted by thisaznboi88
I want to coat the pipe for a few reason. First the down pipe was made of of mild steel and warping it traps moisture in between the material and metal. I get a funny smell after driving the car from the header wrap if it has gotten wet. It could be that the heater wrap was cheap to begin with in the first place. Secondly, I think having it insulated with both material will help prevent the surrounding plastic and rubber hoses from melting if it does somehow come in contact with the down pipe. Also less radiate heat on rubber and plastic parts will help it last longer.
If that's the case then I would have to do the same. Mild steel wouldn't last with wrap alone. However, have you tried sealing the wrap with the DEI silicon spray to keep the moisture out? Also, what brand and material wrap have you tried? I personally have found that the DEI Titanium wrap is (IMO) a superior product in nearly all aspects. Though it's not as resistant to fraying as the fiberglass wraps.
I have spray it with DEI silicon, but the paint won't stick to the fibers. Even when it has dried for a few days. I can run my hand across the manifold wrap and it will flake off. I am not sure what the previous owner used, but the down pipe has really good material since I bought the DEI. Doesn't flake off and it's already black.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 10-02-2016 at 07:52 PM.
I have spray it with DEI silicon, but the paint won't stick to the fibers. Even when it has dried for a few days. I can run my hand across the manifold wrap and it will flake off. I am not sure what the previous owner used, but the down pipe has really good material since I bought the DEI. Doesn't flake off and it's already black.
That seems plausible. You can see that there is an obvious smoothness on the Titanium fibers opposed to the fiberglass that could create this problem you've described. I bought another product called basalt that's basically the same stuff that the Titanium is made from but it's a sleeve design that you can literally slip over the downpipe or exhaust tubing in desired lengths and diameters that you may be interested in. Very cool stuff and I'd say the best part about the basalt sleeves is if you use say a 4" diameter sleeve over 3.5" tubing, it creates an air gap to further hinder the transfer of heat. It's often said that an air gap can improve an insulations effectiveness by 50-100%.
note to self. never buy moog ball joints ever again... They have been on the car for less than 1 year and already started to squeak. Project 555 ball joint is a go. Also thinking about doing new front and rear rotors with pads.
oh man what a thread! lol i just finished catching up with it... how often do you drive? im starting a boost thread soon and not sure is SC/TC i do drive every day to work. Great work tho =)
oh man what a thread! lol i just finished catching up with it... how often do you drive? im starting a boost thread soon and not sure is SC/TC i do drive every day to work. Great work tho =)
I drive it everyday. Mileage range from 20-110 a day depending where I am at for rotations.
oh man those are great news i only drive 20 miles a day lol def considering this TC setup, have you ran into any major issuea?
no major issue just normal wear and tear on the suspension/brake parts. The car has been rock solid right now. But then again I don't got WOT all the time anymore. The car has plenty of power using 50-60% throttle to pass on 2 lane roads, and during normal driving I am still at vacuum until I give it a little bit more gas to bring it into boost.
Totally in love as well. It's dropped an average of 25-30 degrees on most days and I've dropped nearly .610 seconds off my WOT tune runs between 44-88mph. Not sure what that equates to in power but definitely much quicker and responsive. I've been playing with FlashPro Live lately and love it. I set up my laptop on the passenger seat and tune my little heart out after full heat soak has sat in...which is typically after 15-20 minutes IF I've sat at a few stop lights in between, lol.
Originally Posted by SleEper_Cu2
oh man those are great news i only drive 20 miles a day lol def considering this TC setup, have you ran into any major issuea?
Attention to detail and a great tune will give you excellent reliability.
The water methanol kit decided to dump a gallon and a half into the engine and intercooler piping while it was sitting for 2 days. I when to crank the car today and it just didn't start. thought it was the battery... Guess what the 2.25gallon w/m tank is drain... Going to drain the oil and crank the car and see if it will start... But I think I am going to ship the car back to California and get a cheap car to drive around in the mean time.
can been sitting for 2 days.. I cranked it a few times before knowing that there was a failure in the system. I assumed it was the battery since it was weak as hell when I try to crank the motor. I will try to spin it by hand tomorrow after I drain the oil.
From what my friend was saying all the water methanol should have already draining into the oil pan due to the way piston rings are sealed the oil level is way over kill. About an inch over the top of the full line. I am hoping that because it was sitting for 2 days the engine will be saved. But there so much fluid everywhere. I need to pull the intercooler off and drain the liquid out of there.
I think after this is said and done I will be putting the car back, selling the turbo kit, and getting a 2017 civic hatchback or a truck.
Last edited by thisaznboi88; 10-29-2016 at 10:04 PM.
Just an update. I can spin the crank freely by hand. So lets see if where we can go from there. Hopefully it will start. I changed the oil it doesn't look muddy. Also had the starter prime the engine and it seems to be okay. Going to lube up the cylinder wall and let it sit for a little before I crank it again.
Car starts. I am going to pull the intercooler and clean it also. I also need a replacement stud for the IM since the one I had on there bent. In addition, I will be pulling off the water methanol kit on my car and have Dom retune it for pump gas only.
Using an aquamist one for close to 10 years... I am not sure how it happened. I am thinking that there could be a shortage since on weds I was experiences some Electrical discharge noise from my speaker systems. I thought it was a bad speaker so I ignored it. Come Saturday when I come to drive it you guess it. Car will not power on and the battery is closed to dead.
Going to run a compression test in a few days to make sure everything's A okay.
09-26-2016, 01:47 AM
