mikeyboy2011

Hi All,

It's been a while since I gave some lovin' to my '08 TL, but I've been contemplating for some time converting my lame stock brakes to OEM Brembos...

I KNOW many will want to bash me on here for going this "OEM" route, I realize there are cheaper and easier BM kits (rotora, BBK, etc), but I truly want the OEM setup, so I don't mind spending more money and more time!

(I used to own an '98 Mazda Millenia, and I'm used to tearing the front-end down to remove knuckles, ball joints, etc, as I did
quite a bit of upgrades/etc to that car..so I pretty much should have all the tools needed)

I've done quite a bit of reading on here of all the various threads pertaining to the "brembo conversion", but I don't believe
anyone yet has done a walk-through with pictures as they did it....plus I want to try and detail out the specifics on options for
parts/etc....

links to some relevant conversion threads:

(brembo conversion parts list)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=10669446

(AnthraciteAspec's brembo conversion thread)
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=711887


So here's what was posted in the Service Garage for that brembo-conversion parts list
(I moved some of the parts to "optional", as they can be replaced with aftermarket kits)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

*** REQUIRED ****

*** OPTIONAL ***
So I have a couple of quick questions:

1) Which years of Type-S/6MT Kunckles (spindles) can I use to swap out with my 2008 5AT knuckles, to mount the brembos?
(I'm guessing it's about [2004-2008] range)

2) Can anyone say which ABS sensors are better when swapping to brembos? (ie should I leave my 5AT sensors, or get the ABS
sensors from a type-S???)

3) Which brand would be the most recommended for the SS brake lines???


Thanks so much everyone for your help!

I will be posting pics of this in progress, once I get started....I want to piece this all together first, so I have everything
in order before I start....

I'm thinking for a bit of "prepartion" ease, I'm going to get new bearings/hubs, and have them pressed ahead of time into the 6MT knuckles, rather than risking damaging the bearings in the 5AT knuckles when I remove them from the drive shafts..


and that's my other concern, I've encountered this problem in the past with drive shafts being "seized" into the hub...but that was from my '98 car, hopefully my TL (2008) shafts will still pop out of the hubs, either easily, or with extra force of a hub-puller...(the shafts in my '98 Milly took 3+ hours each of air hammers, torches, etc etc until they were pulverized to a pulp, from a real shop, not myself!)

bforbrian

iTrader: (11)

Talk about a skilled HTML user.
Any non-brembo TL can be equipped with any year brembo knuckles. Not so sure about the sensors but I have the XLR8 SS brake lines and they work beautifully.

Here goes my brembo conversion, painted teal metallic.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

I agree with Brian...the XLR8 SS lines are awesome....and dude awesome choice of color x 2

apart from that i doubt anyone will bash you for going OEM....i think its an economical solution and when painted those Brembos look awesome !!!

mikeyboy2011

Nice!! I too like that color!


So, did you have any issues getting the drive axles out of the hubs, or did they pop fairly easily?

Also, did you use your original hubs & bearings, or did you press new bearings w/hub into the 6MT knuckle??

thanks again guys!

ez12a

that looks really good. Did you paint this yourself? If so, what kit did you use? My Brembos need repainting

insxtc

looks real nice!!! I think I am going to do red with white lettering on my brembo caliper next year along with brakeomtive slotted/cross drill rotors.

bforbrian

iTrader: (11)

Getting the drive axles out of the hubs wasn't without a substantial amount of effort. Patience!!!

bforbrian

iTrader: (11)

I brought it to a wheel shop that does brake caliper painting. Fronts only for $125, and I supplied my own paint. I actually have a ton of this teal metallic paint left over. The smallest size was a gallon, which is enough to repaint almost the entire car LOL.

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

^ that color looks sick.

UA6

Great color choice too!

truonghthe

why goes through this procces? while you can go with the RL caliper route.


Heeltoe offer the kit, some member here describe it is superior to the Brembo in term of braking power and there is a thread about that.

mikeyboy2011

Yep, I had looked at the RL caliper route, but I was concerned about clearance issues with the stock TL wheels (I think you mentioned that in your thread about the clearance being real close)......

Also, I'd just feel more comfortable knowing that I have normal caliper to knuckle mount config, versus having the add-on bracket.....

Plus you have more choices with Type-S rotors and pads...

but who knows, my biggest fear still is having to ditch the whole project if I can't break those drive axles free!

Hopefully within a few weeks I will be ready to start the project...once I get everything collected and in order...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Brian, you should sell us some of that paint in the little zephyrhills bottles...perfect choice. I wouldn't expect any less from you.

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

Is that a decal that goes over the paint after? Been thinking of repainting mine, but wasn't really sure how to address the text after painted

ez12a

i'm going to try DIY paint.

I think the way to do the decal is to paint, let it dry/cure and then the decal, then a spray of glossy clear over that.

mikeyboy2011

Ok,

so for anyone reading that has done the SS brake lines (XLR8 or other), do you need any of the stock "clips" from the Type-S to mount the lines??

ie should I still buy the Type-S brake parts from above that have the clips?

ie these?

And I am assuming that the "PIPE" parts mentioned in the parts list is not needed when swapping the brake lines over to SS lines??

truonghthe

gotcha, but you gona spend more money and time trying to convert lol versus RL route the worst case scenario is you will need to buy a set a rims lol. Anyway good luck with the project and don't forget to post pics when you done

acura_dipset_tl

iTrader: (40)

^ Just to clarify, stock tl rims will clear the RL calipers. I know cause I have that set up and I use to have stock type s wheels on them. Also with the RL set up you can run with bigger rotors.

mikeyboy2011

Ok all,

finally started the first phase of this project, which was to get used type-S knuckles, and load them with new bearings and hubs.

(ended up buying knuckles from parts yards via www.car-part.com....got each for approx. $125 w/ship.)

Since I do not have access to a 'real' garage with air tools, hydraulic press, etc, I will always try my best to make a tool out of scratch parts that gets the job done!

I had 3 tasks to accomplish for this part:

In this case, I decided a nice 5lb hand sledge and 20lb full sledge would suffice for removing the old hubs and bearings, since I didn't care how the came out, as long as they came out!

I used two cinder blocks for support while beating with the sledge....turns out a 1/2" 32mm socket fits perfect for the diameter of the hub...

I soaked everything for about 30mins first with the "ATF/Acetone" mix (50/50 mix) that many on other sites have recommended as the best solvent for helping loosen tight/stuck/rusted parts, etc...

5-10 good whacks with the 20lb, and the hub popped right out, of course outer-race with it...

Once the hub was out, just needed to use a pair of "retaining clip" (c-clip) pliers, to remove the retaining clip that is around the top groove you see in pic 3.
( it basically just locks the bearing in, since the bottom of the sleeve that the bearing is pressed into, has a solid bottom ring that allows the bearing to "bottom-out" when you press it in, so it cannot press any further.)

The retaining clips on both knuckles were rusted pretty good, had to use the retaining clip pliers to first start to loosen them, then also use a flat-head screwdriver to work the clip free around the rest of the edge, until it finally all popped out...

Used a 36mm socket then on the bearing itself, and it popped out with same amount of effort..

Some pics of before, and after...

mikeyboy2011

Also,

I decided I wanted to replace the ABS sensors in these used knuckles, if possible, since I did end up buying new ones (I think they were only $25 each)....

The one knuckle, the sensor seemed to have glued itself into that sensor hole, I ended up having to snip the plastic/wire out, then drill out the sensor tip plastic, and tap out the remaining plastic from the hole, then gently clear out the hole with a drill bit to remove all the plastic/rust/etc...

The other knuckle, the old sensor came out somewhat easily, with just a little bit of force, and some lube.......but 100% different from the other one!

The "metal rings" that are pressed onto the back of the knuckle, ie back of the bearing, just press onto the back of the existing lip on the knuckle, that is the bottom-out spot for the bearing. So the clip itself doesn't do much, besides maybe protect the ABS sensor tip a hair? but not much...

So on the one knuckle, I replaced the clip since it was so rusty, the other knuckle, the clip was like new, so I left it..

I bought new dust shields, since the ones on the knuckles were all destroyed, etc....as expected...

To press the "bearing" into the knuckle, I first made sure I coated the inside wall of the bearing channel in the knuckle with anti-sieze, and nice, light, thin coating...just to help it slide through...

also, I had the bearings in the freezer for about an hour, just to try and have them shrink in the littlest bit, any little bit helps!

I first aligned the bearing into the channel, go it straight and level, you can feel it "catch".....I took one of the old c-clips, and hammered it so it closed up a bit, so it would fit around the outside perimeter of the new bearing....since it seemed you don't want to pound the bearing in by the center, you need to hit the outside edge....

So with the 5lb sledge, a couple of those steel blades, on top of the closed-up retaining clip, that is on the bearing, I slowly pounded the bearing in...

Once it reached the lip of the knuckle, you need to tap it in about 1/8" more, to bottom it out in the knuckle, and past that "groove" where the c-clip goes..

So for this, I got a cheap piece of exhaust pipe from pep boys, that was the right diameter to sit on top of the c-clip, that is still sitting on the outside diameter of the bearing.....hit the sledge on top of that pipe a few times, to finish pushing the bearing in...

Now onto the hub...

So, after installing the shields, final step, pressing in the new bearings, and hubs....with NO real press, I had to make a home-made thing, can't take credit for the original idea though, someone else on another forum came up with this idea!

Picked up a 3/4" threaded rod from home depot, a bunch of 3/4 hex nuts, some washers, and a few packs of these 2-pack blade things for a trimmer I think...just needed some nice flat pieces of steel with holes in the center! (as I have no scraps of metal around!)

So with a 36mm socket inverted (fits perfect into the center of hub front this way), and the threaded rod going through, other end has an old iron pipe "female-to-female" adapter, which fit perfect for the diameter of the inner core of the bearing)...

So cranking on the left side with a pipe wrench, hold the right side, slowly little by little, the hub presses into the bearing...

And voila, here are the final pics...

mikeyboy2011

So at this point, I'm going to work on freeing my drive axles from the current hubs, before I take on the final part, installing the new knuckles, new brakes/calipers, etc..

I don't want to completely disassemble anything from my car until I see how stuck the axles are in there...hopefully not too bad....

but I'm assuming I will waste a half day at least (most likely full day) getting them free'd up, etc... Once I get them out, then I can put some anti-sieze on the splines, pop them back in, etc....and wait for a good weekend to do the final part..

05_NBP_TL

iTrader: (1)

Nice instructions....would love to install the RL calipers when i have to do my next brake job. BBK ftw

mikeyboy2011

Hi everyone!

Well, finally, I finished this project over the weekend, took me quite some time to get all the parts together, so I could knock this out over a weekend!

I'm still finalizing my write-up on the whole ordeal, the snags I encountered, things I did/did not need to do, etc etc...I have a bunch more pictures, but I wanted to first get something posted back on here!

Here's a couple quick pictures, just a "before" and "after", so you can see the difference!

And I want to say, These BREMBO calipers ROCK! They just kick-a$$! they are awesome to change pads, so simple, plus very easy to bleed....what a difference!

mikeyboy2011

Specs on what I installed:


1) Calipers - Centric 142.40083 (Right)
- Centric 142.40084 (Left)
Re-manufactured Type-S Brembo calipers
** can no longer purchase the "semi-loaded"
141.40083/141.40084, can only purchase the fully-
loaded ones w/pads **


2) Rotors - "Disc-Italia" Type-S slotted rotors
(Disc Italia part# DIS222.061, ordered from
"brakeworld.com")



3) Pads - EBC "red stuff" ceramic pads
(Type-S front pads, EBC part #DP31210C)



Parts ** REQUIRED ** for the "TL Base to Type-S" Brembo Conversion


*** OPTIONAL PARTS ***


BTW, I decided NOT to install any SS brake lines, I'm not too confident yet on what I was reading about the compression connectors on the ends of any SS lines out there, versus how the stock rubber lines are made....

And the flex hose w/brackets/clips ARE required, as everything below the first connection (metal pipe coming out from top of wheel well), needs to be parts for the Type-S/Brembo setup.

I myself did all new Wheel bearings & HUBs for the Type-S knuckles, as I bought the knuckles used, and both had 60k+ mileage on them. Plus, they were from parts yards and had signifcant rust from being outside in junk yards...


I will post more details on the finishing of the project, plus more pics.

I took side by side shots of the Base and Type-S knuckles, so you can see what the actual difference is. They are actually 99% identical, only difference is the actual inset of those two "caliper mounting flanges" (or whatever you call them)...they are recessed back a bit on the Type-S knuckle for the bigger brembo dimensions.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

great write up and list of things needed for the conversion

dontTL'em'nothing

iTrader: (3)

hmm i think you just gave me my winter project. moar pics my friend and a job well done

ZOMGVTEK

The bleeders are supposed to face up, but yeah they definitely are easy to bleed.


I did this to exchange all my brake fluid in 15 minutes without jacking up the car or removing wheels.

mikeyboy2011

Shit!! did I put these on the wrong side? crap, I better flip them around, being the pistons are different sizes for leading/trailing...

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Awesome, awesome job and writeup!
Makes me appreciate my Brembo's even more!

mikeyboy2011

Thanks everyone!

and YES, I did indeed mount the calipers on the wrong sides! I had the L & R calipers reversed, which is why the bleeders were pointing down instead of up!

Also, the orientation does matter, since I did verify that the Pistons are different sizes, the larger piston must be in the most downward position!

I just got done switching the calipers to the correct sides, so now the bleeders are pointing upwards as they should! And wow, the brakes feel even better!

I will post more pictures, along with much more details, in the next day or so, once I finish writing it all up...

Azndjay

now u need to do a conversion with the back brakes =)

mikeyboy2011

Haha, so what is the deal with the rears, is there really any difference between Type-S and Base for the rear brakes?

I see the part numbers are different for the calipers, but everything else is the same....

And from this thread on here, seems as if maybe they were just powder-coating the rear calipers on the Type-S in that same black as the brembos??

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/rear-calipers-any-way-tell-diff-between-6mt-vs-808265/


so if that's the case, I will at least minimally clean-up my rear calipers, and paint them in a similar black!!

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

are RL rear calipers the same?

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

good call with the bleeders needing to point up. one time my friend i and mounted the RL calipers with the bleeders pointing down...and lets just say his brakes wouldnt work because the air bubbles were stuck on the top of the caliper with no way out. had to drive with no brakes for couple miles to the shop....lesson learned the hard way. and yes, we were only using e-brake and engine braking

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^we've all been there...scary sh*t we used to do in hs.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

when i installed brakes for Steven....we took the caliper out to paint it....since I have never owned brembo brakes, didnt know you have to bleed the inside as well....

lets just say the test drive was like a death trap....

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

^^ I can vouch for that-pretty scary.

mikeyboy2011

Ok,

so, here's more details of the project, start to finish.

** forgive me guys if this is too much detail!! I figured I'd just provide full details, and the ones on here that are much better at this then me can skip the fine details !! **

Let's start with the knuckles, since I bought them used, from car-part.com, I figured I'd be better off putting new bearings and hubs in each one, just to get a fresh start on each.

Since I described the whole bearing/hub "pressing" process I did above, without having a press, I will just list a couple important things if you do replace your bearings and/or hubs.

----- PREPARING TYPE-S KNUCKLES ----------


1) ORIENTATION of the bearing is critical! It does indeed have a front and back, you MUST make sure you press the bearing into the knuckle
with the correct side facing out, as the "inside" rim of it has the special magnetic disc embedded, which is what the wheel sensor uses
to pick up the wheel rotation!

(I was real lucky when pressing (actually hammering since I didn't have a press) in my bearings, that I thought to put the white
'marked' end to the outside (ie facing the tire), since I assumed that was the front. I didn't know at the time about the magentic
rear, I found that out days later when I looked it up! So I got real lucky!)


** Below is a picture of what the bearing looks like, or at least what the OEM one looks like if you buy it through honda/acura **


Notice the "white" lines/markings on the top rim, that notates the "FRONT" ie OUT FACING side, side that goes towards the tire! The
other side, which has no markings, (has more of a brownish rubber ring around it), goes toward the back, ie facing the wheel sensor!.



2) Whether you "press" in your hub(s), or manually press them together like I did with the $10 rigged up setup like I made, don't worry
about getting the hub 100% absolute certain fully sunk into the bearing, as long as you get it close. Once you mount the new knuckle,
drive axle fed in, etc, when you do the final tightening of the axle nut, that setup itself acts like a press as well. The tighening of
the axle nut, and the drive axle hub on the opposite side, will bring all the parts 100% snug together, if there was still any slack.
Then once the slack is all out, you crank it down with some good torque!


You are supposed to tighten the axle nut down to something like 180+ ft/lbs of torque, so make yourself a nice huge breaker bar! I took my craftsman 1/2" socket wrench (1ft long I

think), and hammered the handle into a 2ft foot or so piece of steel pipe from home depot, then I added another 4 ft onto that, with a 4 ft piece of black steel pipe, which fit snugly

over the original 2ft steel pipe. So I now had an approx. 5-6 ft breaker bar!! Prob. overkill, but it made popping those axle nuts loose much easier!

mikeyboy2011

---- PREPARING/CHECKING DRIVE AXLES FOR REMOVAL ----------


so, I was quite paranoid about the drive axles being "stuck/siezed" in the current Hubs, as I actually experienced that with my last car. (although, it was a '98 Millenia, so the drive

axles had been in there much longer). I decided before I went for the full monty, I would first "test" each side, pop the three ball-joints loose that you need to get the knuckle off,

ie tie rod, upper control arm, and lower ball joint, and make sure the drive axles were not completely stuck (did this on a separate weekend).

Before I did anything, I first jacked the car up, took the tires off, and un-staked and free'd the axle nuts on each side, taking the nuts completely off, so I could have access to the

front of the drive axle/splines that protrude through...I wanted to do whatever I could to soak them ahead of time in the best solvent, which according to posts online, was ATF/Acetone,

50/50 mix.


*** Best way to remove the axle nuts, so that torque is not absorbed into the tranny case, is remove the "dust cap" on your rims, to expose the
axle nut. Keep the tire mounted to your car, and keep the car on ground level, ie NO JACK/LIFT!!!!

Break the axle nut free while the car is on the ground, so that the wheel/tire takes the force while you are breaking the axle nuts free!
There is enough space so you can install the socket and a breaker bar, with the wheel still on the car!

****


1) So mix up some ATF and Acetone in a cheap home depot spray bottle, shake it up real good right before applying (since once it sits for a
bit, the ATF and Acetone will separate, so must shake well before use!), and spray the crap out of the spindle, as much as you can into the front of the hub, and spray the back side
of the axle too, where it enters the hub from the back.



2) So, while that soaked, I popped all the ball-joints out, taking out the cotter pins, which BTW you should replace! (like $2 for a
package of a bunch, from autozone, pepboys, etc). Once a couple hours passed, then just turn the knuckle to the side a bit (ie remove
the tie rod from the knuckle so you can just turn it whatever way you want), so that way the drive axle is now pivoted a bit, so there
is slack to attempt to remove it from the hub.


MY right side slid right out like butter, as soon as I was turning the knuckle, I watched the spindle end just start sliding backwards
out of the hub! No force needed at all! The left (drivers) side, was a tad stuck in there. But with 5-10 hits with a 5 lb sledge, it
starting backing out...

*** remember, if you have to hammer the drive axle at all, thread the axle nut back onto the end to protect the shaft threads before
hammering!!

AND DO NOT HAMMER the drive axle unless the axle is turned!! if the axle is straight on, all the hammering force will go
straight to the transmission case!
***


3) I love using the silver "anti-sieze" compound on bolts that need to be torqued quite good (and are very prone to picking up rust, etc).
So, once I had the drive axle ends out, I made sure to coat the drive axle splines with anti-sieze, so that if I ever need to pop them out down
the road, hopefully this will prevent them from being stuck!

Also, I did the anti-sieze on the threads of the bolts for the three ball-joints that I popped out.



below are some pics showing the "BASE" & "Type-S" knuckles, so you can see those caliper mounting tabs, and how they differ in their offsets (besides that though, knuckles are no

different).

Also some pics of the knuckles after being mounted, etc....





I also included a picture of the "ball-joint" popping/removal tool, which I got a few years back in a ball-joint tool kit, from Harbor Freight. You can use this one tool for all of the

joints, you don't need the whole set. But this is the set I bought, they still carry it!




http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-66686.html

mikeyboy2011

------- INSTALLATION OF THE TYPE-S COMPONENTS! --------------


Once I had all the parts ready (ie calipers, pads, rotors, etc), now it was just time to take everything apart again, and this time remove the knuckles completely, and install the new

hardware!


1) Remove the Axle nuts
- Un-stake them with a flat-head or small punch tool, whatever you can find to flatten out that staked-in edge of the axle nut. Using a
nice large breaker-bar, break the axle nut loose! I made a 5ft breaker bar with black steel pipe from home depot, and a 1/2" socket
wrench!


2) Remove the original calipers
- remove the calipers from the knuckle. It's easier if you leave the caliper attached via the rubber brake line until the last step, so you spill the least amount of brake
fluid!!!


3) Remove the current Brake Rotors
- if those "rotor" holding screws are "stuck" (that many end up stripping out trying to remove), BEST way to remove them without stripping
them, is to use a multi-headed wrench or similar tool that can have a philips-head bit put into it, so you can turn the screw head
slowly, but with a good amount of torque.

I already had this tool:

http://www.sears.com/innovative-prod...2&blockType=G2


A "PH3" size PHILIPS-HEAD bit is the perfect size, just "tap" the bit into the screw head gently with a small hammer, to make sure it
mates all the way in. Then attach the multi-wrench head onto the bit, and slowly break it loose with the wrench.


(I stripped several of these screws in the past on my Honda Pilot rotors, until I got this tool...haven't stripped one since!)


4) Pop the three Ball-Joints free
- First remove the cotter pins from each ball-joint's bolt.
- Using the "ball-joint" tool, pop each ball-joint free. (It may take quite a bit of torquing down on that tool before they "pop" out,
especially if you didn't free them previously! )


*** When doing the Lower Ball Joint, TRY TO get the ball joint tool's fingers to grip the "metal sleeve" that the lower ball joint mounts
into, it looks like a metal "ring or lip" that mates to the top surface of the knuckle, where the ball joint mounts in. If you only
grip the knuckle itself when you work on popping out the ball joint, you most likely will push out the sleeve with it.

I did this on one side, it just leaves you with a bit more work....You will then have to "pop" the sleeve off of the ball-joint bolt
when you take the knuckle off, and then hammer the sleeve FIRST back into the knuckle, before bolting the ball joint itself back to the
knuckle.

***

- Under the hood, locate the "orange" connector on each side of the wheel wells, where that ABS sensor wires comes through the wheel well,
it's quite easy to locate. Driver's side is real visible, Passenger side is somewhat harder to see, it's to the right of the BRAKE FLUID
RESEVOIR. ** The DRIVER's side connector (under the hood) has a little "clip" that held the clip/wire in place against the wheel well,
you can pop this free but pushing on the other side of the clip from inside the wheel well.

- DISCONNECT these connectors, and pull the connector through the wheel wells, so that the ABS sensor wires are free. Also, unbolt the
small nut that affixes the ABS connector "plate" to the upper control arm.



5) Remove the drive axles
- at this point, the knuckle is completely free'd, except for the drive axle in the hub. Remove the drive axles from the hub, and remove
the knuckle from the car completely.

- if either of the axles do not come out easily, with little or no force, then you will need to work on breaking them loose with force.
Start off with something like a 5lb sledge, as you hopefully will not need more than that.

*** remember, if you have to hammer the drive axle at all, thread the axle nut back onto the end to protect the shaft threads before
hammering!!

AND DO NOT HAMMER the drive axle unless the axle is turned!! if the axle is straight on, all the hammering force will go
straight to the transmission case!
***


- IF you need more force than a sledge hammer, use a hub-puller type tool (you can even rent them at autozone, pepboys, etc).


6) INSTALL ALL THE NEW COMPONENTS!

- if you have Anti-sieze, coat the drive axle splines with some of it, work it into the spline grooves, and wipe it with a cloth to get any
excess/clumps out! This will save you down the road if you ever need to remove them again!

- install the Type-S knuckles, first work the drive axles into the hubs, getting the axle fully seated through the hub. Install a new axle
nut onto the axle, and tighten it down with a socket wrench, use enough torque so that you feel the axle is fully pulled into the hub,
any slack is taken out.

- Connect the three ball-joints back to the new knuckle, and tighten down the nuts to correct torques. Install new cotter pins into each
bolt! (and use Anti-Sieze on the bolts if you have it before installing and tightening the nuts!).

- install the caliper "shims" on the caliper mounting flanges. See pics above to show how this looks!

- Attach the new Rubber Brake lines to the new "rubber-to-G-PIPE" brake line brackets" (if they weren't already attached in the kits),
and hammer the new clip on (included in the kit), this firmly locks the rubber hose to this bracket.
(again, this may have already been done in the kit..My left side kit already had this assembled, the right side was just the bag of
loose parts!).

!!!Don't attach this bracket to the knuckle yet, it's easier to bolt it down last !!!


- install your new ROTORS!! (and tack them on with those little holding screws if you still have them)


- Mount the brembo calipers to the knuckle, using the new caliper mounting bolts. (use Anti-Sieze on these as well!). Torque down these
bolts to their recommended spec!


****** MAKE SURE THE "BLEEDER SCREWS" ARE POINTING UPWARDS ********


I originally installed my calipers on the wrong sides, so the bleeders were pointing downwards....as you can see in the pic I originally posted...

You DO want it pointing the correct way, as the pistons in the caliper are DIFFERENT SIZES, larger pistons are oriented to be most downward in the front! (if you install
these on the wrong sides, the larger pistons will be incorrectly in the upper position!)


- lightly attach the G-PIPE (metal tube) brake line to the back of the caliper, and to the end of the rubber-hose that is attached to the
bracket. This is what you will need the 10mm 'FLARE WRENCH' for. Leave these connections loose for now.

- Mount the bracket to the knuckle, and tighten down the two 10mm bolts to secure the bracket to the knuckle.

- NOW go back and tighten those G-PIPE NUTS connecting to the back of the caliper, and the rubber hose at the bracket!
*** DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, as you can strip the threads in the caliper! ***

- Feed the ABS sensor wire & plug through the hole in the wheel well, make sure it snaps in. Connect plug to connector in engine bay (which is attached to wheel well).

- disconnect the ** OLD *** caliper rubber brake line, from the highest connection point, where it connects to the metal brake tubing coming out of
firewall. !!!!! You will need a "10mm flare wrench" for this !!!!!

- removing those metal "clips" on the brake lines are quite easy, use a flat-head screwdriver, and "pry" against the inside of the tab lip,
prying against the metal connector end of the rubber brake hose. It will pry off quite easily.

- now connect up your new rubber brake line to the G-PIPE end that you just disconnected from the old caliper. Remember to first install the metal clip to affix the new rubber
brake line to the upper bracket!


*** REMEMBER!!! MY PICTURES SHOW THE CALIPERS ON THE WRONG SIDES!!! MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THEM WITH THE BLEEDER SCREWS FACING UPWARDS *******

I will try to take a new batch of pictures next time I get a few minutes to pop a tire off again.....