I have just a couple of quick questions that I need answered, please don't flame me I read through the sticky on zaino technique and procedure.

1. I am planning on Zainoing an 04 SL500 (black in color) and since the car is basically brand new (less than 1000 miles) are there any products I shouldn't use ie do I need to use the claybar?
2. I am in missouri and right now the weather is dipping into the teens at night with a high in the low 50's should I stay away from zaino? How much longer should I expect to wait on drying time?
3. Should I use microfiber clothes, or just stick with the 100% cotton towels? I also have access to lint free surgical rags.
4. I drive an 02 TLS (black in color) should I zaino it first before I tackle the SL?

If it helps, I detail cars when I have time, therefore I am very experienced with different waxes, I am just very apprehensive with using Zaino please let me know if I am getting in over my head by zainoing the SL. Thanks for your time.

 

Check the Wash and Wax forum ... lotta info there and to get you started Zaino 101. Just remember, a little goes a long way. Post some pics when you get it done.

 

1. Even though the car is brand new. I would still claybar the car. During transportation, most cars travel by train and get a lot of "rail dust". Not to mention, you don't know where the car sat before you took possession, so there may be some other embedded dirt on the paint.
2. Low 50s, you may have to wait a little longer for Zaino to dry, if you're using ZFX, it can be 30-45 minutes (it depends). Just do the finger swipe test and you'll be fine.
3. I went out and bought 100% cotton towels the first time I did Zaino. These days I uses high quality MF towels with no problems. The only downside I've had with cotton towels is the lint factor. Either way, if the towels are good quality and you don't really "lean" into the paint, it should be ok.
4. I would try the techniques on the TL first (it costs less :P). Whichever you decide to do, focus on a small section before you do the entire car.

In general, if you have experience with detailing, Zaino should not be a problem. It's pretty similar to waxing. Just apply thin coats and give it ample time to dry. Thin coats cannot be stressed enough.
HTH. Good Luck.

 

Thanks for the info i'm still a little uneasy about using the clay bar, based on the horror stories that I have heard.

 

The 'secret' to safely using clay is plenty of lubricant

Detailing products should be applied to a clean dry surface, with a temperature of >50 – 90< ° F.

Place some saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly. Every snag you feel is below surface contaminant that the Detailers Clay bar can remove but you may not be able to see. The best way to describe the proper method for using detailer clay is to use plenty of the lubricant and aquaplane the clay bar over the surface in straight-line motions.

Detailer's Clay Application
·Divide the Detailer's Clay into equal pieces and knead into a ball to ensure pliability
·Take one of the pieces and flatten it out into a circle, approximately enough that it will fit into the foam clay holding pad.
·Place the kneaded clay into a damp pad (*Groit's Cleaning Clay Pad) spray with a lubricating solution (WooliteTM or Dreft™ / Water 5:1) the foam clay holder will retain moisture and enable an even pressure to be applied to the paint surface while using it.
·Spray evenly onto a two square foot section with the lubrication solution, ensure that the surface being clayed is always wet
·Glide the Clay across the area in a front to back in a straight-line aquaplaning type motion
·Use an imaginary two-foot by two-foot square area to work on.
·Use a light to medium even pressure until the surface becomes smooth and silent.
·If the Clay is streaking on the paint, you need more to apply more lubricating solution, it is better to over lubricate the paint film surface than let it dry-out
·When the Clay is moved across the paint film surface you should hear a friction sound and some resistance. This is the grit being lifted from the paint. When the resistance and noise stops, dry the solution off with 100% cotton Alpine DF Microfiber cloth.
·To avoid wasting detailer's clay because you probably will drop it, place a towel on the ground underthe area you're claying so the clay will fall onto the towel without picking up gravel etc.
·If you drop the clay on the ground do not try to clean it, discard it or it may cause micro scratches in your paint film surface.
·Rinse of any clay residue and ensure there is no more contamination to remove
·Move onto the next two-foot by two foot square area and repeat the process.
·Once half the section is completed turn the clay over to a fresh, clean side and complete the remaining section.
·Check the surface of the clay often, once it becomes contaminated fold to a clean surface.
·Wash, rinse and dry each section and ensure all imbedded surface contaminants have been removed before moving on to the next panel / section
·I would go over the paint surfaces again with the clay to ensure nothing was missed
·When complete wash, rinse and dry the vehicle to ensure removal of any clay remnants

*Optional, you can kneaded clay/ lubricant by hand

JonM

 

WOW!!! Thanks so much for the info i will see what I can do. I wish i could give you rep points because you deserve it.