icy2

What do you guys use/recommend to clean wheel wells and to use as a protectant on them. I'm currently using car shampoo and a brush(separate bucket) to clean them.

Also I have scheduled a convertible mustang for a detail but don't have anything for convertible top care. Any suggestions on either guys?? Thanks again!

jwr0ng626

iTrader: (1)

for my convt. top, I usually just wash with soap and brush or grout sponge, and after it dries I spray 303 aerospace

LawnPro

^^^ +1 on 303 aerospace, it is an amazing product!

TOGWT

Wheel Wells

Those plastic parts see the harshest conditions and are subjected to all the elements. The liner is usually made from SMC (an unsaturated polyester resin) periodically remove the wheels (one at a time utilizing a car jack and / or axle stands) to enable cleaning the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Ensure that the vehicle body is secure by placing on axle stands.
1. Rinse wheel well thoroughly with water.
2. Use a 1:1 solution of P21 Total Auto Wash a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner and water in a spray bottle, spray the wheel wells and let the solution remain in place for 3-5 min
3. Agitate and brush the road dirt / grime the wheel well and suspension parts, brake callipers, etc
4. Spray the area thoroughly with a high pressure water spray
5. Remove any road asphalt with a safe solvent (Stoners Tarminator)
6. Repeat if necessary
7. Use P21S® Polishing Soap on all metal parts (taking care to avoid the brakes)
8. Rinse using a high pressure hose / nozzle to remove soap residue
9. I recommended wearing rubber gloves, once finished, rinse the wheel wells and dry them with an old terry towel.
10. Once they have thoroughly dried, spray with 1z einszett Tiefenpfleger -Vinyl-Rubber Care and Protectant.
11. Wheel wells - Adam’s Undercarriage Detailer or Chemical Guys Bare Bones (avoid spraying the brake rotor) wipe down any excess for a matte finish)

These products leave a matte finish, (not solvent-based silicone dressings) without grease that attracts dirt / dust. Provides protection for the plastic ducts

Convertible (Fabric) Top

Methodology
• Masking - use a 1-mil x 9-foot x 12-foot plastic drop cloth, cut it in two pieces (6 x 9-feet). With the convertible top up in front & back, drape one piece across the back as close to the top hinges as possible. Drape the second piece over the windshield and far enough 6-foot h back to cover the seat back, fold the convertible top down but do not latch. Mask the areas around the fabric top with masking tape (3M® Painters Easy Release Blue Tape)
• Mask the rear window - cover the rear window to avoid over-spray
• Use a soft horsehair brush to remove any loose surface dust, and then vacuum to ensure the surface is dust free, use a lint lifter to remove lint from the fabric surface. Be careful around the rear window to avoid scratching

CleaningMost off-the-shelf car wash soap/cleaners over time will damage the stitching on a fabric or vinyl top, it usually starts around the rear window.
• Shake product for 30-60 seconds to ensure even mixing
• All surfaces should be clean, dry and free of dust, wax or silicone.
• As with all cleaning products, always test a small, indiscrete area first to ensure it won't discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material.
• Apply fabric cleaner (Harrtz RaggTopp®) in a cross hatch pattern //// \\\\ (to ensure an even coverage) with a clean, damp applicator and leave to penetrate fabric for 10 – 20 minutes dependent upon stain. Gently scrub using a soft brush to get into the texture of the fabric. Work the brush from the middle towards the outside.
• Repeat if necessary; applying two light coats are better than the application of one heavy coat: allow drying thoroughly between coats.

RinsingRinse off using an open-ended low-pressure water hose and a soft horsehair brush Using a hose without a nozzle, this allows the gentle flow of water to rinse out the cleaner, gently brush the surface. Continue rinsing until the rinse water runs clear. Once the top is thoroughly rinsed, take a soft brush and “brush” the nap of the top in one direction.

Drying• Dry with a waffle weave Micro fibre towel using a blotting motion to dry excess moisture.
• Allow the fabric to dry for as long as possible (preferably 24-hours) before using the protectant. An hour or two isn’t long enough, it may feel dry but that’s only the uppermost surface layer (using a protectant on a damp fabric will ‘seal in’ the moisture and encourage the formation of mildew)

Protecting• Apply a fabric protector (Harrtz RaggTopp® Protectant or 303™ High Tech Fabric Guard) on the dry fabric, keeping about 6-8 inches above surface and in a cross hatch pattern //// \\\\ (to ensure an even coverage) using a back and forth movements spray lightly but do not soak (if you use too much product it will turn white, rinse away excess and allow to dry)
• Always ensure that the stitched seams have adequate protection applied to them
• Alternatively use a soft horsehair paintbrush and apply light thin coats, if time permits, two light coats are better than one medium coat, using gentle sweeping motion. Do not saturate. Allow to dry 10-15 minutes between coats, and to dry thoroughly before using or storing.

Lint RemovalOnce the top is completely dry, remove any lint or brush fibres with a lint roller or the sticky side of plastic packing tape. Any lint left on the top will ruin the appearance of your fabric top.
• Remove all masking tape and any other materials
• Be sure to remove any accidental over-spray from paint or glass surfaces immediately with a damp Microfiber towel or a 1:1 isopropyl alcohol / distilled water solution. On paint work use a pre-wax cleaner if necessary or fine detailing clay.
• After treatment the top will bead water, when the beading diminishes (usually at 6 monthly intervals, dependent upon climate / use) it's an indication that it's time for another treatment.

Maintenance

• Providing the fabric is not soiled by any foreign matter that needs to be addressed (i.e. tree resin (sap) bird or insect excrement, etc ) routine cleaning should comprise of vacuuming with a soft bristled attachment and then use a lint cleaning roller to remove dust (including pollen) There is no need to rinse the top with water or use a car wash concentrate or a soft top cleaner; this will only weaken the protection provided by the protectant and is not a necessary part of a maintenance regimen
• Apply ultra violet (UV-B) protection; periodically to avoid photo degradation(fading), dependant on climatic conditions as its protection degrades over time, apply protection (303™ Aerospace Protectant) to fabric by keeping spray about 6-8 inches above surface and using a back and forth movement spray lightly but do not soak fabric.
• Apply a fabric protector (Harrtz RaggTopp® Protectant) each quarter (adjust for use / and or environmental conditions)

Harrtz RaggTopp® Horse Hair Brush - this natural horse hair brush will not harm the finish of your convertible. It’ nonabrasive and is incredibly soft, yet strong enough to get into the fibres and texture of your fabric of vinyl top.

The design of the brush makes it easy to grip and gently scrub dirt and grime from your convertible top, car cover or other fabric and vinyl material like tonneau covers, vinyl awnings.


These articles are getting great reviews…see why! TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html

icy2

Thanks for the help fellas!!

TOGWT----special thanks for the step by step info!

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Griot's Garage makes an undercarriage spray that is good for the wheel wells.

303 Aerospace, by far, is great for rag-tops.

icy2

You know Steven I use alot of Griots products but I never thought to try the undercarriage spray. Might have to add that to my list also. Thanks for the info!

dnd2984

iTrader: (6)

I just did my wheel well, I diluted Megs APC+ 4:1 and then sprayed them down with Megs Hyper Dressing.

Steve is that Griots undercarriage spray made for metal also.