Washed the car with Rain X wash & wax
#1
Washed the car with Rain X wash & wax
hello! just washed the car after 4 or 5 months with rainx was and wax... i still need to clay bar the car and wax it whenever weather gets clear.... as after i washed and rinsed the car when i rubbed my hand against the paint i felt like there's sandpaper on the paint. i am pretty sure car needs to be clay bared. hopefully the weather will clear up in oregon so i can wash, clay and wax the car. pics after wash....
#2
Pro
Looks like you definitely need a clay...
For OTC washes I prefer the Mother California Gold wash and the Mothers line of clay and waxes...
Looks good though...
For OTC washes I prefer the Mother California Gold wash and the Mothers line of clay and waxes...
Looks good though...
#3
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Age: 31
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Megs Gold Class wash is also pretty popular for OTC.
Car looks good. How do you like the RainX Wash and Wax?
Car looks good. How do you like the RainX Wash and Wax?
#5
If you have plans to get a DA, then machine polish it first with that and a paint cleanser (P21s paint cleanser comes to mind), so you don't waste the clay bar.... Clay bars get pretty expensive.
#6
Dale brought up an issue to me in pm.
I forgot to mention this, brain fart, I'm getting old these days lol.
But, try clay bar a section and see how that works (from the description, the paint sounds pretty bad, and it sounds like you are going to need quite a bit of clay bars), and then try polishing it with a paint cleanser (Something like P21s paint cleanser, and do it quick, no need to do it like you would doing paint correction) via machine, then clay it, and polish again with an actual polish and the machine. That way you can make the deicision which one is faster/cheaper.
Also, if my logic is right (I hope? May be another brain fart moment, I really should stop studying with only 3 hours of sleep), might be a better idea to light polish/clay/polish again if the paint's oxidized in places
I forgot to mention this, brain fart, I'm getting old these days lol.
But, try clay bar a section and see how that works (from the description, the paint sounds pretty bad, and it sounds like you are going to need quite a bit of clay bars), and then try polishing it with a paint cleanser (Something like P21s paint cleanser, and do it quick, no need to do it like you would doing paint correction) via machine, then clay it, and polish again with an actual polish and the machine. That way you can make the deicision which one is faster/cheaper.
Also, if my logic is right (I hope? May be another brain fart moment, I really should stop studying with only 3 hours of sleep), might be a better idea to light polish/clay/polish again if the paint's oxidized in places
Last edited by CU2MIKE; 04-19-2011 at 05:58 PM.
#7
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#8
Dale brought up an issue to me in pm.
I forgot to mention this, brain fart, I'm getting old these days lol.
But, try clay bar a section and see how that works (from the description, the paint sounds pretty bad, and it sounds like you are going to need quite a bit of clay bars), and then try polishing it with a paint cleanser (Something like P21s paint cleanser, and do it quick, no need to do it like you would doing paint correction) via machine, then clay it, and polish again with an actual polish and the machine. That way you can make the deicision which one is faster/cheaper.
Also, if my logic is right (I hope? May be another brain fart moment, I really should stop studying with only 3 hours of sleep), might be a better idea to light polish/clay/polish again if the paint's oxidized in places
I forgot to mention this, brain fart, I'm getting old these days lol.
But, try clay bar a section and see how that works (from the description, the paint sounds pretty bad, and it sounds like you are going to need quite a bit of clay bars), and then try polishing it with a paint cleanser (Something like P21s paint cleanser, and do it quick, no need to do it like you would doing paint correction) via machine, then clay it, and polish again with an actual polish and the machine. That way you can make the deicision which one is faster/cheaper.
Also, if my logic is right (I hope? May be another brain fart moment, I really should stop studying with only 3 hours of sleep), might be a better idea to light polish/clay/polish again if the paint's oxidized in places
#11
Advanced
bad information....first off, clay is not expensive...if your car is in real need of being clayed, and you try to machine polish your paint, your going to polish the contaminants right into your clearcoat...
the paint should be clean before you polish, so clay it first...
the paint should be clean before you polish, so clay it first...
#12
bad information....first off, clay is not expensive...if your car is in real need of being clayed, and you try to machine polish your paint, your going to polish the contaminants right into your clearcoat...
the paint should be clean before you polish, so clay it first...
the paint should be clean before you polish, so clay it first...
Clay's not expensive? Really? at average 20 bucks a pop, I'd say it's pretty expensive.
How many bars of clay do you think a car that "feels like sand paper" needs? I just did a 2003 Honda Accord coupe not too long ago, the paint felt okay (slightly gritty, but definitely not like sand paper), I used 1/3 of a brand new clay bar (200g bar) on the trunk alone.
But the OP did say he's a beginning and doesn't have a machine available, so taking his time to clay the paint is his best shot.
#13
#15
Suzuka Master
If the purpose of the cleaner wax is to remove oxidization etc do a wipe with 50/50 rubbing alcohol & water to clean the surface as sealants need a wax/oil free surface to bond to.
#16
i don't have any oxidation on the paint.....u know what last time i washed my car i just used cleaner wax on the whole car and left it like that..... as it said on the cleaner wax it protects the paint finish....
#17
Your Friendly Canadian
Join Date: Dec 2007
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I guess it is a wax as well Are there any dedicated paint cleaners at your local car care place?
#18
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
See my post that immediately followed that.
Clay's not expensive? Really? at average 20 bucks a pop, I'd say it's pretty expensive.
How many bars of clay do you think a car that "feels like sand paper" needs? I just did a 2003 Honda Accord coupe not too long ago, the paint felt okay (slightly gritty, but definitely not like sand paper), I used 1/3 of a brand new clay bar (200g bar) on the trunk alone.
But the OP did say he's a beginning and doesn't have a machine available, so taking his time to clay the paint is his best shot.
Clay's not expensive? Really? at average 20 bucks a pop, I'd say it's pretty expensive.
How many bars of clay do you think a car that "feels like sand paper" needs? I just did a 2003 Honda Accord coupe not too long ago, the paint felt okay (slightly gritty, but definitely not like sand paper), I used 1/3 of a brand new clay bar (200g bar) on the trunk alone.
But the OP did say he's a beginning and doesn't have a machine available, so taking his time to clay the paint is his best shot.
if your using that much clay, you are waisting it...20 bucks for 2 pieces of clay that will do about 6 cars....if you know what your doing ofcourse...
#19
Suzuka Master
Yes the cleaner wax will protect .. but as with multi use items it won't protect any where near as long as a dedicated item.
#20
i was curious if i clay my car...will it expose the swirl marks or scratches in the car finish if it was ever detailed before by lazy detailer who might have hidden the scratches and swirls with glaze...i bought the car in 2009.... do u think if glaze was used to hide the swirls would it be stripped by now as its 2011?
#21
Needs more Lemon Pledge
There is none of the 2009 protection left on your car.
#23
Needs more Lemon Pledge
If you clay, follow up with a wax or sealant. The claying will remove ANY protection on the clearcoat.
You may not get super reflective or "Wet" looking paint without good polishing, etc, but get something on the paint to protect it.
You may not get super reflective or "Wet" looking paint without good polishing, etc, but get something on the paint to protect it.
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