Tiny Specks of Cement All Over Car
06-18-2005, 03:53 PM
#1
Tiny Specks of Cement All Over Car
I was driving on the highway in Florida during my spring break, and a cement truck pulled in front of me and sprayed tiny specks of cement all over my car. After several car washes, the cement is still there. It's stuck on the hood AND windows. If i scratch at the cement with my nail, I can remove it, but most of the time it just gets pushed around and is VERY hard to remove. Claying hasn't helped either - most of it gets pushed around and readheres to a different part of the car. Any suggestions?
06-18-2005, 06:16 PM
#2
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Sorry to hear about that, we (Florida) usually leave a better impression than that...
Concrete Spots:
Calcified water spots on paint and glass, water and concrete spots are pretty much the same chemically - calcium carbonate, with the concrete being cross-linked with water
Methodology
•Apply 1:1 ratio water with distilled White Vinegar solution, and using a spray bottle, spray that mixture on the spots and let them "soak." Then rinse with water and repeat as necessary.
•If the ambient temperature water/vinegar mix does not work, warm (100-120 degrees) 100% distilled White Vinegar, saturate a clean kitchen sponge with pure vinegar and hold the sponge over the concrete spots for a few minutes.
•If the above do not remove them try equal parts distilled water, isopropyl alcohol and distilled white vinegar. The acid in the vinegar will help etch and dissolve the concrete.
•Rinse the area thoroughly with water after the vinegar and then reapply wax or sealant to that area.
JonM
Concrete Spots:
Calcified water spots on paint and glass, water and concrete spots are pretty much the same chemically - calcium carbonate, with the concrete being cross-linked with water
Methodology
•Apply 1:1 ratio water with distilled White Vinegar solution, and using a spray bottle, spray that mixture on the spots and let them "soak." Then rinse with water and repeat as necessary.
•If the ambient temperature water/vinegar mix does not work, warm (100-120 degrees) 100% distilled White Vinegar, saturate a clean kitchen sponge with pure vinegar and hold the sponge over the concrete spots for a few minutes.
•If the above do not remove them try equal parts distilled water, isopropyl alcohol and distilled white vinegar. The acid in the vinegar will help etch and dissolve the concrete.
•Rinse the area thoroughly with water after the vinegar and then reapply wax or sealant to that area.
JonM
06-18-2005, 06:18 PM
#3
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You can also try a diluted solution of Muratic Acid. You can buy it in the tile section at Home Depot.
It's used to remove grout haze, mortar haze...which is basically what landed on your car, the run-off of a batch of cement.
It's used to remove grout haze, mortar haze...which is basically what landed on your car, the run-off of a batch of cement.
06-19-2005, 10:45 AM
#4
The Old Grey Whistle Test
What is muriatic acid and how dangerous is it? (http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infmur.shtm)
Muriatic acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the most dangerous chemicals you can buy for home use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. Yep, muriatic acid is "super stomach acid"!
With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs.
Typical home uses include heavy-duty masonry cleaning, preparation of masonry for painting or sealing, removal of efflorescence or mineral deposits and pH reduction in swimming pools. Its reactive power makes it the chemical of choice for some types of masonry cleaning.
Muriatic acid is sold in a standardized concentration of 31.45% acid and 68.55% inert ingredients, primarily water. This is the concentration you are going to find in your local hardware store. Our mixing suggestions are based on this concentration... if the muriatic acid you purchase is stronger, adjust the dilution proportions for the job accordingly.
Muriatic acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the most dangerous chemicals you can buy for home use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. Yep, muriatic acid is "super stomach acid"!
With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs.
Typical home uses include heavy-duty masonry cleaning, preparation of masonry for painting or sealing, removal of efflorescence or mineral deposits and pH reduction in swimming pools. Its reactive power makes it the chemical of choice for some types of masonry cleaning.
Muriatic acid is sold in a standardized concentration of 31.45% acid and 68.55% inert ingredients, primarily water. This is the concentration you are going to find in your local hardware store. Our mixing suggestions are based on this concentration... if the muriatic acid you purchase is stronger, adjust the dilution proportions for the job accordingly.
06-19-2005, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
What is muriatic acid and how dangerous is it? (http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infmur.shtm)
Muriatic acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the most dangerous chemicals you can buy for home use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. Yep, muriatic acid is "super stomach acid"!
With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs.
Typical home uses include heavy-duty masonry cleaning, preparation of masonry for painting or sealing, removal of efflorescence or mineral deposits and pH reduction in swimming pools. Its reactive power makes it the chemical of choice for some types of masonry cleaning.
Muriatic acid is sold in a standardized concentration of 31.45% acid and 68.55% inert ingredients, primarily water. This is the concentration you are going to find in your local hardware store. Our mixing suggestions are based on this concentration... if the muriatic acid you purchase is stronger, adjust the dilution proportions for the job accordingly.
Muriatic acid is a highly reactive liquid acid, and one of the most dangerous chemicals you can buy for home use. It is an industrial-strength solution of hydrogen chloride gas dissolved in water, also known as hydrochloric acid. Yep, muriatic acid is "super stomach acid"!
With the exception of some plastics, muriatic acid can damage most anything it touches, including clothing, metal, and skin! It emits a suffocating odor that can quickly burn the lining of the nose, throat and even the lungs.
Typical home uses include heavy-duty masonry cleaning, preparation of masonry for painting or sealing, removal of efflorescence or mineral deposits and pH reduction in swimming pools. Its reactive power makes it the chemical of choice for some types of masonry cleaning.
Muriatic acid is sold in a standardized concentration of 31.45% acid and 68.55% inert ingredients, primarily water. This is the concentration you are going to find in your local hardware store. Our mixing suggestions are based on this concentration... if the muriatic acid you purchase is stronger, adjust the dilution proportions for the job accordingly.
Have you any actual experience with this chemical? Because if you did, you'd know that the solution sold in Home Depot & tile centers is nowhere near strong enough to eat through anything. It's barely an exfoliant for dry skin. One needs to apply atleast a few treatments to remove stuck on grout haze, it's not powerful enough to take it off in one treatment.
*Try pasting the WHOLE article next time so people don't have to make conclusions based on the minimal content of your post.
06-19-2005, 03:06 PM
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Vinegar can work....BUT....first make sure it is cement.
First never clay cement, that's the worst thing you can do as bits of clay can work into the clay then you end up scratching the whole car up.
If it is cement then you can use muriatic acid safely. Wear some rubber gloves, some eye protection and place the acid in a shallow bucket. Soak the towel in the acid and don't be freaked when it starts to steam. Place the towel on the area, allow it to soak a few moments then gently move the towel around to gently scrub the area. Rinse often and repeat.
Have a second bucket close by with soap and water to rinse and nuetralize the acid wash.
Good luck,
Anthony
First never clay cement, that's the worst thing you can do as bits of clay can work into the clay then you end up scratching the whole car up.
If it is cement then you can use muriatic acid safely. Wear some rubber gloves, some eye protection and place the acid in a shallow bucket. Soak the towel in the acid and don't be freaked when it starts to steam. Place the towel on the area, allow it to soak a few moments then gently move the towel around to gently scrub the area. Rinse often and repeat.
Have a second bucket close by with soap and water to rinse and nuetralize the acid wash.
Good luck,
Anthony
06-19-2005, 06:54 PM
#7
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Originally Posted by chef chris
What exactly was the purpose of this post? I'm sure we all know how to Google.
Have you any actual experience with this chemical? Because if you did, you'd know that the solution sold in Home Depot & tile centers is nowhere near strong enough to eat through anything. It's barely an exfoliant for dry skin. One needs to apply atleast a few treatments to remove stuck on grout haze, it's not powerful enough to take it off in one treatment.
*Try pasting the WHOLE article next time so people don't have to make conclusions based on the minimal content of your post.
Have you any actual experience with this chemical? Because if you did, you'd know that the solution sold in Home Depot & tile centers is nowhere near strong enough to eat through anything. It's barely an exfoliant for dry skin. One needs to apply atleast a few treatments to remove stuck on grout haze, it's not powerful enough to take it off in one treatment.
*Try pasting the WHOLE article next time so people don't have to make conclusions based on the minimal content of your post.
The purpose of my post was simply to make aware what the dangers of using this product could be. With the hyperlink quoted anyone who wanted to read the whole article could reach their own conclusions. There is no need to become defensive we are all here to learn, including me and I've been doing this for almost five decades.
JonM
If Anthony says this will work I have no reason to disbelive him, I just never ever reach for an acid first to clean anything related to vehicles.
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06-20-2005, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
If Anthony says this will work I have no reason to disbelive him, I just never ever reach for an acid first to clean anything related to vehicles.
Sometimes you need to tackle things smart...ask questions before you try "mechanical" means. In a case like this, starting off 'safe' by claying will only push the cement around and do way more damage than any diluted acid would ever do.
You mentioned you've used this acid to clean cement from tiles. Well, I've used store-bought muratic with my bare hands(purely by accident the first time) and nothing came of it other than super-soft skin...didn't do a whole lot to the grout haze either without a shitload of elbow grease. In fact, I don't believe I've ever seen commercial strength(like the article references) acids like these available to the general public, even at a tile center I do business with.
06-20-2005, 08:35 AM
#9
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Chef Chris - I apologize profusely for having the audacity to question your judgment or experience in building products, car detailing or chemistry as you obviously are far better qualified and have far more experience in these subjects than I do.
06-20-2005, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TOGWT
Chef Chris - I apologize profusely for having the audacity to question your judgment or experience in building products, car detailing or chemistry as you obviously are far better qualified and have far more experience in these subjects than I do.
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