Swirl marks
07-30-2012, 05:25 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Swirl marks
Hey guys I've had my TL for a little over 2 months now. I used the 2 bucket method and grit guard for my buckets but I'm starting to see lite scratches or swirl marks. My choice of products is Meguiars, but when I used the Ultimate Compound it left fingerprint marks. Two questions 1) what do you guys with CBP use to eliminate you marks 2) Is Acura paint considered soft paint? Thanks guys
07-30-2012, 05:44 PM
#2
Moderator
what type of equipment are you using to polish the car?
porter cable?
LC pads?
what color pads?
what type of polishing compounds are you using? do you clay bar the car before you start to polish?
what is your experience with detailing?
porter cable?
LC pads?
what color pads?
what type of polishing compounds are you using? do you clay bar the car before you start to polish?
what is your experience with detailing?
07-30-2012, 05:54 PM
#4
Acura's paint is pretty soft.
and potmilks, i dont think he's polishing.
your wash media is pretty important.
I use microfiber towels.
if it falls on the ground, i get a new one. etc.
and you cant get swirling out by hand.
only a machine can get swirls out.
I'm suspecting that your dealer USED cleaner waxes with fillers.
these fillers HID the swirl marks.
then, as the wax is wearing off, you start seeing swirl marks.
please confirm that you never took it to a automated car wash.
and potmilks, i dont think he's polishing.
your wash media is pretty important.
I use microfiber towels.
if it falls on the ground, i get a new one. etc.
and you cant get swirling out by hand.
only a machine can get swirls out.
I'm suspecting that your dealer USED cleaner waxes with fillers.
these fillers HID the swirl marks.
then, as the wax is wearing off, you start seeing swirl marks.
please confirm that you never took it to a automated car wash.
Last edited by justnspace; 07-30-2012 at 05:57 PM.
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TLtrigirl (07-30-2012)
07-30-2012, 06:15 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Acura's paint is pretty soft.
and potmilks, i dont think he's polishing.
your wash media is pretty important.
I use microfiber towels.
if it falls on the ground, i get a new one. etc.
and you cant get swirling out by hand.
only a machine can get swirls out.
I'm suspecting that your dealer USED cleaner waxes with fillers.
these fillers HID the swirl marks.
then, as the wax is wearing off, you start seeing swirl marks.
please confirm that you never took it to a automated car wash.
and potmilks, i dont think he's polishing.
your wash media is pretty important.
I use microfiber towels.
if it falls on the ground, i get a new one. etc.
and you cant get swirling out by hand.
only a machine can get swirls out.
I'm suspecting that your dealer USED cleaner waxes with fillers.
these fillers HID the swirl marks.
then, as the wax is wearing off, you start seeing swirl marks.
please confirm that you never took it to a automated car wash.
07-30-2012, 06:23 PM
#6
Moderator
your first mistake is polishing by hand.
i would suggest for you to start off with a porter cable 7424xp
use some Lake Country pads. I have had success with orange pad with Meguiars M105 then with black pads with Meguiars 205 as a finisher.
i also have CBP, and its very soft which in turns means very easy to correct.
Here is the steps.
Wash your car
Clay your car
Wash it again (you probably dont need to do this step, but i do it to get all the clay bar residue out)
Dry
3m blue tape the car. Areas where you do not want polishing compounds to seep into, usually between the cracks of each body panel.
Prime the Pads with compounds
Do a test spot, usually 12x12 inches to see what type of correction you will get.
polish sections at a time. if you are to do a hood, split it into 4
go side to side then up and down, do about 3 passes and wipe down with microfiber.
Get a LED light, shine at corrected area to see of there is any swirls.
follow steps throughout the car for polishing stage.
once done, wash the car again with 2 bucket method.
dry, then apply final coat of wax.
Let wax cure for about 2-3 hours, then wipe down wax.
I suggest Black Fire Wet Diamond Wax. It looks amazing.
This is how i have been doing it, and it seems to be fine.
i would suggest for you to start off with a porter cable 7424xp
use some Lake Country pads. I have had success with orange pad with Meguiars M105 then with black pads with Meguiars 205 as a finisher.
i also have CBP, and its very soft which in turns means very easy to correct.
Here is the steps.
Wash your car
Clay your car
Wash it again (you probably dont need to do this step, but i do it to get all the clay bar residue out)
Dry
3m blue tape the car. Areas where you do not want polishing compounds to seep into, usually between the cracks of each body panel.
Prime the Pads with compounds
Do a test spot, usually 12x12 inches to see what type of correction you will get.
polish sections at a time. if you are to do a hood, split it into 4
go side to side then up and down, do about 3 passes and wipe down with microfiber.
Get a LED light, shine at corrected area to see of there is any swirls.
follow steps throughout the car for polishing stage.
once done, wash the car again with 2 bucket method.
dry, then apply final coat of wax.
Let wax cure for about 2-3 hours, then wipe down wax.
I suggest Black Fire Wet Diamond Wax. It looks amazing.
This is how i have been doing it, and it seems to be fine.
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Zelaya (07-30-2012)
07-30-2012, 06:52 PM
#7
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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you could use the meg's UC you already have in place of the meg's 105/205 combo to get your swirls out. it won't dust like the 105/205 combo.
the meg's UC cutting power is rated between the 105 and 205 according to meg's. i've used the meg's UC with a LC orange pad. it works very well and leaves the finish ready for LSP.
the steps that potmilkz has listed above is pretty much the procedure to properly paint correct and detail your car.
check out autogeek.net for how to's and products. a word of caution...you will be overwhelmed.
the meg's UC cutting power is rated between the 105 and 205 according to meg's. i've used the meg's UC with a LC orange pad. it works very well and leaves the finish ready for LSP.
the steps that potmilkz has listed above is pretty much the procedure to properly paint correct and detail your car.
check out autogeek.net for how to's and products. a word of caution...you will be overwhelmed.
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07-30-2012, 08:22 PM
#9
Tried polishing mine by hand, lol waste of time. 
How much is a good price for a polish/detail?
How much is a good price for a polish/detail?
07-30-2012, 08:43 PM
#10
6th Gear
Join Date: Jul 2011
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Opti Coat will add some additional thickness to your clear coat. Waxes are ok for shine, but they do not last and are overpriced. At least check out Opti Coat on AutoGeek or elsewhere. You will not be disappointed. Gtechniq also makes a kick butt coating.
07-31-2012, 08:48 AM
#13
Suzuka Master
your first mistake is polishing by hand.
i would suggest for you to start off with a porter cable 7424xp
use some Lake Country pads. I have had success with orange pad with Meguiars M105 then with black pads with Meguiars 205 as a finisher.
i also have CBP, and its very soft which in turns means very easy to correct.
Here is the steps.
Wash your car
Clay your car
Wash it again (you probably dont need to do this step, but i do it to get all the clay bar residue out) You prolly mean the QD residue and if your polishing after claying the polishing removes any residue, if not polishing just remove the residue with a 50/50 mix of IPA & water.
Dry
3m blue tape the car. Areas where you do not want polishing compounds to seep into, usually between the cracks of each body panel. If your getting seepage of polish your using way too much, usually taping is to prevent cutting through the clear in thin areas and to keep the polish off black textured trim etc.
Prime the Pads with compounds
Do a test spot, usually 12x12 inches to see what type of correction you will get.
polish sections at a time. if you are to do a hood, split it into 4
go side to side then up and down, do about 3 passes and wipe down with microfiber.
Get a LED light, shine at corrected area to see of there is any swirls.
follow steps throughout the car for polishing stage.
once done, wash the car again with 2 bucket method.
dry, then apply final coat of wax.
Let wax cure for about 2-3 hours, then wipe down wax. Waxes and sealants don't need to be left on , remove as soon as dry, usualy just a few minutes. The curing of sealants happens after ists removed. Leaving it on for 3 hours just increases the chances of getting dust on the car and rubbing it in and scratching while removing the wax/sealant.
I suggest Black Fire Wet Diamond Wax. It looks amazing.
This is how i have been doing it, and it seems to be fine.
i would suggest for you to start off with a porter cable 7424xp
use some Lake Country pads. I have had success with orange pad with Meguiars M105 then with black pads with Meguiars 205 as a finisher.
i also have CBP, and its very soft which in turns means very easy to correct.
Here is the steps.
Wash your car
Clay your car
Wash it again (you probably dont need to do this step, but i do it to get all the clay bar residue out) You prolly mean the QD residue and if your polishing after claying the polishing removes any residue, if not polishing just remove the residue with a 50/50 mix of IPA & water.
Dry
3m blue tape the car. Areas where you do not want polishing compounds to seep into, usually between the cracks of each body panel. If your getting seepage of polish your using way too much, usually taping is to prevent cutting through the clear in thin areas and to keep the polish off black textured trim etc.
Prime the Pads with compounds
Do a test spot, usually 12x12 inches to see what type of correction you will get.
polish sections at a time. if you are to do a hood, split it into 4
go side to side then up and down, do about 3 passes and wipe down with microfiber.
Get a LED light, shine at corrected area to see of there is any swirls.
follow steps throughout the car for polishing stage.
once done, wash the car again with 2 bucket method.
dry, then apply final coat of wax.
Let wax cure for about 2-3 hours, then wipe down wax. Waxes and sealants don't need to be left on , remove as soon as dry, usualy just a few minutes. The curing of sealants happens after ists removed. Leaving it on for 3 hours just increases the chances of getting dust on the car and rubbing it in and scratching while removing the wax/sealant.
I suggest Black Fire Wet Diamond Wax. It looks amazing.
This is how i have been doing it, and it seems to be fine.
07-31-2012, 10:55 AM
#15
Moderator
pc 7424xp is a orbital polisher as the makita is a circular polisher.. with the PC, you cant really burn the paint, even if you wanted to.
i would suggest to start off with pc.
08-01-2012, 04:41 PM
#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the help I should be receiving my DA in a couple of days I went with the Meguiars. I plan on using the compound, polish and wax up before I add more. Arack can i add the opti coat on my wax. I've never used a polisher before nervous and excited.
08-01-2012, 05:24 PM
#19
Moderator
i dont use the handle because once im done polishing one spot, the palm of my hand feels all weird and i get this stinging sensation..
i just hold it from the base, much better grip.. i heard there is a way to modify that handle tho.. never got around searching it up.
08-02-2012, 09:54 AM
#20
Drifting
Hey guys I've had my TL for a little over 2 months now. I used the 2 bucket method and grit guard for my buckets but I'm starting to see lite scratches or swirl marks. My choice of products is Meguiars, but when I used the Ultimate Compound it left fingerprint marks. Two questions 1) what do you guys with CBP use to eliminate you marks 2) Is Acura paint considered soft paint? Thanks guys
the rule on removing swirls is to always use the least aggressive method to get the job done first.
in my opinion, ultimate polish worked wonders for me. ive had the car for six years and have had only very light hairline scratches on the clearcoat from washes. the ultimate polish got rid of these just by applying by hand. depending on the severity of the swirls, you can actually remove them by using ultimate compound. if im not mistaken, meguiars has diminishing abrasives on both the ultimate compound and ultimate polish - meaning you dont do more damage to the paint than you begin with, assuming you're not burning through the paint with a polisher.
here is a thread from the meguiar's forums where they removed scratches on the paint caused by scouring pads by using nothing more than the ultimate compound applied by hand:
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...day-Open-Class
On to our typical test spots - one area by hand, one with the G110v2 buffer. Here we're applying Ultimate Compound by hand.
Follow with Ultimate Polish and finish with Ultimate Wax.
Out in the sun you can see the results of the hand application test spot (left side) and machine applied test spot (right side). Even the hand applied section is a huge improvement of the untouched area. It looks blacker and richer, and judging by all the swirls still evident in the tape line strip down the center, we did a really good job removing the typical defects by hand. The deeper marks you see in the hand applied spot are mostly the scouring pad scratches. But the machine applied side looks almost brand spanking new!
Closer up you can see the results even more clearly. That's the hand applied section in the bottom of the picture, machine applied at the top. In the middle, where the tape line was, you can clearly see not just the swirls but the scouring pad scratches, too.
Follow with Ultimate Polish and finish with Ultimate Wax.
Out in the sun you can see the results of the hand application test spot (left side) and machine applied test spot (right side). Even the hand applied section is a huge improvement of the untouched area. It looks blacker and richer, and judging by all the swirls still evident in the tape line strip down the center, we did a really good job removing the typical defects by hand. The deeper marks you see in the hand applied spot are mostly the scouring pad scratches. But the machine applied side looks almost brand spanking new!
Closer up you can see the results even more clearly. That's the hand applied section in the bottom of the picture, machine applied at the top. In the middle, where the tape line was, you can clearly see not just the swirls but the scouring pad scratches, too.
good luck
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r3tro23 (08-04-2012)
08-02-2012, 10:15 AM
#21
My first Avatar....
08-04-2012, 07:38 AM
#22
it's a car-drive it
Acura's paint is pretty soft.
and potmilks, i dont think he's polishing.
your wash media is pretty important.
I use microfiber towels.
if it falls on the ground, i get a new one. etc.
and you cant get swirling out by hand.
only a machine can get swirls out.
I'm suspecting that your dealer USED cleaner waxes with fillers.
these fillers HID the swirl marks.
then, as the wax is wearing off, you start seeing swirl marks.
please confirm that you never took it to a automated car wash.
and potmilks, i dont think he's polishing.
your wash media is pretty important.
I use microfiber towels.
if it falls on the ground, i get a new one. etc.
and you cant get swirling out by hand.
only a machine can get swirls out.
I'm suspecting that your dealer USED cleaner waxes with fillers.
these fillers HID the swirl marks.
then, as the wax is wearing off, you start seeing swirl marks.
please confirm that you never took it to a automated car wash.
far from home. No regrets would do it again. Love roadtrips.
08-04-2012, 07:57 AM
#23
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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if it has not been suggested yet...if you plan to use a DA and paint correct yourself...invest in a 1000W halogen work light. helps find those swirls a lot easier.
08-05-2012, 02:08 PM
#25
3G TL/2G MDX Owner
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home depot/lowes...price range is from around $35 to the fancy name brand ones at $80+.
the $35 one works fine...it feels a little flimsy, but it works. warms up a cold garage during the winter too.
the $35 one works fine...it feels a little flimsy, but it works. warms up a cold garage during the winter too.
08-05-2012, 08:03 PM
#26
My first Avatar....
08-06-2012, 08:09 PM
#27
CTSV,TL, Audi Q7 & A5SB
Sometimes it can be the towel your using, Make sure when you go to wipe the wax off your using a clean towel and you keep flipping it as your wiping. if a towel is dirty as you wipe it can scratch up the paint. I also use Microfiber towels.
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nj2pa2nc (08-07-2012)
10-30-2012, 11:15 PM
#30
10-30-2012, 11:23 PM
#31
Just go to autogrek and read all the product descriptions. They tell you everything.
I never really had swirls til recently. I managed this by not letting the dealer touch my car and hand washing and drying only.
I do have a rotary I've used for spots/scratches but yea. Be very careful with those.
Just be sure to keep the buffer moving and use soft pads.
I finally caved and have a pc xp coming this week along with a backing plate and the full line of poorboys sr polishes.
You CAN remove light swirling by hand but you gotta use a lot of elbow grease. I couldn't imagine doing the whole car.
I had some detailer a while ago try to get me to hire him.
I asked what machines/polishes he used. He said he hoes it by hand and wanted $200 bucks for a little ole s2000. Lol. No thanks
Cbp is def a tough color to maintain.
I keep layers of sealant on my car and top it off with carnauba.
Oh yea. Don't EVER use one of those cali car duster things. I tried it once. It did nothing but put tiny scratches all over the paint.
My process is
Optimum no rinse Ina pump spray and coat the hole car.
2 bucket system with grit guards and mf mitt
Wash m dry with mf towel
Clay bar
Water/alch mixture spray and wipe
Polish
Seal
Cure
Buff
24 hours layer
Rinse and seal again.
paste wax
Buff
This makes the metallics in our cars sparkle
I skip some stuff if it's got a good layer of sealant on there but this would be like winter prep.
Good luck.
I'll experiment with some stuff and let you know how it goes.
Tryin out purple haze this week. Supposedly good for dark cars.
I never really had swirls til recently. I managed this by not letting the dealer touch my car and hand washing and drying only.
I do have a rotary I've used for spots/scratches but yea. Be very careful with those.
Just be sure to keep the buffer moving and use soft pads.
I finally caved and have a pc xp coming this week along with a backing plate and the full line of poorboys sr polishes.
You CAN remove light swirling by hand but you gotta use a lot of elbow grease. I couldn't imagine doing the whole car.
I had some detailer a while ago try to get me to hire him.
I asked what machines/polishes he used. He said he hoes it by hand and wanted $200 bucks for a little ole s2000. Lol. No thanks
Cbp is def a tough color to maintain.
I keep layers of sealant on my car and top it off with carnauba.
Oh yea. Don't EVER use one of those cali car duster things. I tried it once. It did nothing but put tiny scratches all over the paint.
My process is
Optimum no rinse Ina pump spray and coat the hole car.
2 bucket system with grit guards and mf mitt
Wash m dry with mf towel
Clay bar
Water/alch mixture spray and wipe
Polish
Seal
Cure
Buff
24 hours layer
Rinse and seal again.
paste wax
Buff
This makes the metallics in our cars sparkle
I skip some stuff if it's got a good layer of sealant on there but this would be like winter prep.
Good luck.
I'll experiment with some stuff and let you know how it goes.
Tryin out purple haze this week. Supposedly good for dark cars.
11-13-2012, 06:41 AM
#33
hello guys,
I am just begining to learn car detailing process. Reading and learning a lot from these forums. I have ordered following products, please have a look and tell me if i am missing something.
1) Mothers 05664 California Gold Car Wash - 64 oz (step1 - carwash)
2) Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System (step 2 - claybar)
3) Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 20 Polymer Sealant, 16 Ounce Bottle (step3 - sealant?)
4) Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish (step4 - polish?)
5) Mothers 05750 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Liquid - 16 oz (step5 - wax)
please confirm my steps order, if they are right?. Also, is any of these products cover my swirl marks :/ ?
I dont own any buffer, i will use hand and take my time. (may be do it in 2-3 days)
any suggestion ?
I am just begining to learn car detailing process. Reading and learning a lot from these forums. I have ordered following products, please have a look and tell me if i am missing something.
1) Mothers 05664 California Gold Car Wash - 64 oz (step1 - carwash)
2) Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System (step 2 - claybar)
3) Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 20 Polymer Sealant, 16 Ounce Bottle (step3 - sealant?)
4) Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish (step4 - polish?)
5) Mothers 05750 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Liquid - 16 oz (step5 - wax)
please confirm my steps order, if they are right?. Also, is any of these products cover my swirl marks :/ ?
I dont own any buffer, i will use hand and take my time. (may be do it in 2-3 days)
any suggestion ?
11-13-2012, 07:59 AM
#34
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^you're gonna want to polish, then sealant, then wax.
however, not having a PC is going to be rough on you. doing this by hand is no fun, and you won't get the desired effect from all those products.
however, not having a PC is going to be rough on you. doing this by hand is no fun, and you won't get the desired effect from all those products.
11-13-2012, 08:32 AM
#35
Suzuka Master
hello guys,
I am just begining to learn car detailing process. Reading and learning a lot from these forums. I have ordered following products, please have a look and tell me if i am missing something.
1) Mothers 05664 California Gold Car Wash - 64 oz (step1 - carwash)
2) Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System (step 2 - claybar)
3) Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 20 Polymer Sealant, 16 Ounce Bottle (step3 - sealant?) If your buying this get the #21 instead, better product
4) Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish (step4 - polish?)Drop this step, even tho its named as a polish its a sealant with cleaners and will just remove the #20
5) Mothers 05750 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Liquid - 16 oz (step5 - wax)Not at all needed as the #21 does the same thing and the carriers ( stuff that makes it liquid ) is going to remove some of the #20. Waxes over sealants are only done for one thing and thats to percievably increace the wet look so not necessary on a car thats not totally polished out.
please confirm my steps order, if they are right?. Also, is any of these products cover my swirl marks :/ ? No, you need to polish them out with a PC etc.
I dont own any buffer, i will use hand and take my time. (may be do it in 2-3 days)
any suggestion ?
I am just begining to learn car detailing process. Reading and learning a lot from these forums. I have ordered following products, please have a look and tell me if i am missing something.
1) Mothers 05664 California Gold Car Wash - 64 oz (step1 - carwash)
2) Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System (step 2 - claybar)
3) Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 20 Polymer Sealant, 16 Ounce Bottle (step3 - sealant?) If your buying this get the #21 instead, better product
4) Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish (step4 - polish?)Drop this step, even tho its named as a polish its a sealant with cleaners and will just remove the #20
5) Mothers 05750 California Gold Pure Brazilian Carnauba Wax Liquid - 16 oz (step5 - wax)Not at all needed as the #21 does the same thing and the carriers ( stuff that makes it liquid ) is going to remove some of the #20. Waxes over sealants are only done for one thing and thats to percievably increace the wet look so not necessary on a car thats not totally polished out.
please confirm my steps order, if they are right?. Also, is any of these products cover my swirl marks :/ ? No, you need to polish them out with a PC etc.
I dont own any buffer, i will use hand and take my time. (may be do it in 2-3 days)
any suggestion ?
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main_shoby (11-13-2012)
11-13-2012, 09:03 AM
#36
^^ so i cancelled list item 1,2 and 3 because I ordered them using amazon's super saver shipping. i will definitely order claybar and carwash. so which product to get? can you guys guide me toward right products?
Can i find DA buffers which can run from car battery?
My car isnt heavily swirled but its a 2004 model, it has little bit of everything: nicks / scratches / swirls.
also, if i really wanna buy a pc DA, i would have to run a 100 feet fire from my apartment to my parking space =\ (its about 30-40 feet) so thats cost of DA and 30$ for wire lol.. and then cost of pads, which i have no idea about.. ie which pads to choose and stuff.
i see myself reading for a few days for that !
Can i find DA buffers which can run from car battery?
My car isnt heavily swirled but its a 2004 model, it has little bit of everything: nicks / scratches / swirls.
also, if i really wanna buy a pc DA, i would have to run a 100 feet fire from my apartment to my parking space =\ (its about 30-40 feet) so thats cost of DA and 30$ for wire lol.. and then cost of pads, which i have no idea about.. ie which pads to choose and stuff.
i see myself reading for a few days for that !
11-13-2012, 09:41 AM
#37
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
just find a friend with a garage and/or house and take your car there. don't make it more complicated than it needs to be.
11-13-2012, 10:50 AM
#39
^^ so i cancelled list item 1,2 and 3 because I ordered them using amazon's super saver shipping. i will definitely order claybar and carwash. so which product to get? can you guys guide me toward right products?
Can i find DA buffers which can run from car battery?
My car isnt heavily swirled but its a 2004 model, it has little bit of everything: nicks / scratches / swirls.
also, if i really wanna buy a pc DA, i would have to run a 100 feet fire from my apartment to my parking space =\ (its about 30-40 feet) so thats cost of DA and 30$ for wire lol.. and then cost of pads, which i have no idea about.. ie which pads to choose and stuff.
i see myself reading for a few days for that !
Can i find DA buffers which can run from car battery?
My car isnt heavily swirled but its a 2004 model, it has little bit of everything: nicks / scratches / swirls.
also, if i really wanna buy a pc DA, i would have to run a 100 feet fire from my apartment to my parking space =\ (its about 30-40 feet) so thats cost of DA and 30$ for wire lol.. and then cost of pads, which i have no idea about.. ie which pads to choose and stuff.
i see myself reading for a few days for that !
look for a outlet on the exterior of the bottom floor.
if you cant find one, ask someone that lives near a space if you can use their outlet for a few hours. pay them a couple bucks if needed.
i run 75 feet of cord to buff my car.
i think the extension cords costed around $30 bucks or so.
you can get 50ft cords from harbor freight pretty cheap.
walmart too.
100ft for 40 bucks
http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...ord-41448.html
harbor freight ALWAYS has coupons so sign up for coupons.
or you could buy a small portable generator.
Last edited by BobbyC; 11-13-2012 at 10:53 AM.
11-13-2012, 12:19 PM
#40
okay, i think i will buy 100 feet cord (50 should be enough too) Please guide me towards right buffer model # and link me if possible, along with pads \ products that go with this swirl removal process.
I will plan it on weekend and have my cousin help me in this
I will plan it on weekend and have my cousin help me in this