cmd

I picked up some Meguiars leather spray and don't care for it at all. It made the leather shiny and slippery as anything! Frankly I'd just love to get it off now. Any conditioner suggestions that will keep the leather soft and NOT slippery?

CU2MIKE

leatherique.
Can be bought @ detailedimage.com, properautocare.com, autogeek.net, and detailersdomain.com i think

PortlandRL

^ This.

That is all.

exceldetail

Slippery, is not necessarily a bad thing. Chemicals on your clothes, thats another. Leather would prefer you slide off of it, then "grip" it.....Just my $.02. Dont spend a fortune where a fortune is not needed. Also consider 3-3 Aerospace Conditioner. Usually a good warm water moistened MF, and a quick swipe of 303 about every 8-10 weeks is sufficient. Alot of people get blown away by so called true "leather care"......it IS NOT A HIGH MAINTENANCE area of the cars interior.

TSXHunter05

will have to be doing the wifes odyessey's leather here real soon Patrick, so your saying just use a warm damp microfiber and then follow up with some 303 protectant and i should be good?

TOGWT

To provide a uniform colour water-based pigments are applied, after two or three coat applications a clear top coat is applied. Pigments require a binding system to improve flexibility, fastness and adhesion to the leather. The top coat is the final stage of the finishing process, and is designed to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.

All finishes have to allow '(evaporation and hydration) i.e. the flow of moisture back and forth, the important considerations for proper leather care; is as much about 1. the state / condition of the leather you are dealing with
2. methodology used 3. product. Cleaning is a combination of all these

(a) Clean - as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear.

(b) Hydrated - use water-based products that do not contain oils and/or waxes, check the label if they do then don't use them. Clean surfaces with a damp towel.

(c) Protected - is essential as it will protect the surface finish protection as a sacrificial layer and makes dirt easier to clean off and an ultra violet protective product (UVR) will preserve the finish.


See also Oil and oil-based leather products - An excerpt from The Art & Science of Detailing http://togwt1980.blogspot.com

Aman

I know what you're saying about meguiar's. I can sometimes feel the leather conditioner on my clothes as I slide around in my desk at school, very strange. And that stuff gets EVERYWHERE.

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

since you cant really condition the poly sealed leather in our cars, just keep the seats/leather clean...

i personally use the meguiars gold class leather wipes, after i wipe my seats down with a clean, damp microfibre, i wipe the seats down with a few wipes then follow with a dry wipe with a clean dry microfibre to give it the dry look/feel...

cmd

IMO, slippery is not good when you're driving. Maybe that's just me. Regardless I don't like leather to shine -- tires, yes, leather, no.

Really? I thought even sealed leather needed conditioned since it "breathes." It'd be nice to not have to. Same for newer Honda leather?

achenator

i still like the zaino LITB

cjTL

iTrader: (2)

Leather conditioner isn't going to condition anything other than your jeans. Stick with leather cleaner. I use Lexol and then 303 to protect it.

TOGWT

Shiny leather - most auto leather is matte when it is new and looked after correctly. Leather with a shiny or glossy look is caused by using an inappropriate care product (cream or oil-based) which leaves an oily residue on the surface, or by dirt build up plus abrasion (constant sliding in and out) friction leaving a shiny surface. Proper cleaning with a water-based cleaner (Leather Master Leather Soft or Leather Strong Effects) and the use of a protection product should return the leather to its original matte finish.

cmd

I bought some Lexol leather cleaner to get the shine off. It's closer to matte now. Still a bit shiny.

So no need to condition? I thought ALL leather needed to be occasionally conditioned. I've been conditioning regularly for years! Its like someone just told me the world was not round.

Here's the Mequiars product I used: Gold Class Rich Leather Spray. http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+G10916 Is this not recommended? Who makes 303?

Aman

I read something about how 99.9% of all new cars have coated leather, which can't be conditioned. But leather needs to breathe, so shouldn't it be conditioned?

IMO you can never go wrong with a proper cleaner and protectant. You've got a great combo, stick with it

Sandals

iTrader: (2)

I use Duragloss leather cleaner & conditioner. Then usually go over it will 303. I may try a warm damp MF with 303.

TOGWT

Leather covered steering wheel

Steering wheels have an extra coating of protective finish on the already finished or coated leather. Perspiration and dirt are absorbed readily into the dry leather, and combined with the ultra violet (UV-B) radiation of the sun a chemical reaction occurs that degrades the hide. All of us have seen this wear on steering wheels

Oil / cream cannot permeate the urethane covered leather and therefore remain on the surface; the same thing will apply to seating surfaces
Most manufacturer’s of oil-based conditioners advice against using this type of product on steering wheels as it makes the surface slippery and could be dangerous if you lose control of the vehicles steering

1. Clean the wheel’s leather surface with a leather cleaner (Leather Master Strong Effect Cleaner ) or a de-greaser (P21S Total Auto Wash) diluted 5:1 with warm distilled water in a spray bottle; dependant upon type and extent of soil or stain
2. For oil or grease stains use Leather Master Leather Degreaser (check for colour fastness) this aerosol product is ideal for cleaning oily stains; it dissolves and removes oil and grease from leather surface. This cleaner can be applied for cleaning all types of leather.
3. Using a Medium / hard horse hair brush, or a soft sponge, spray and work the cleaner into a foam, lightly scrub surface and immediately wipe with a terry towel to remove excess moisture, especially around stitching (you may need to repeat this process).
4. Then use vacuum extractor or compressed air nozzle to dry
5. Once wheel is thoroughly dry apply a (Leather Master’s) leather protection
.