So I finally got a buffer
06-04-2009, 11:06 PM
#1
So I finally got a buffer
Well I got a buffer for free last night from one of my friends he has a porter cable and some others so he said I could have his old buffer that he doesnt use.. Its nothing special just a craftsman and it was free so i couldnt complain.
Basically it's like a beginner buffer you can say. He showed me his cabinet full of detailing supplies hes been doing it since he was about 14 and he is now 27.
So now I guess its time for me to start reading up on different things and different forums.
Just wanted to let you all kno
Basically it's like a beginner buffer you can say. He showed me his cabinet full of detailing supplies hes been doing it since he was about 14 and he is now 27.
So now I guess its time for me to start reading up on different things and different forums.
Just wanted to let you all kno
06-04-2009, 11:46 PM
#2
Former Sponsor
03, Im not sure investing in this craftsmen would be a good idea. Your not going to get the polishes true benefits.....(If its the type Im thinking of).
06-05-2009, 05:16 PM
#7
its kind of on the line as this one
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0723000P?mv=rr but i have 6 inch
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0723000P?mv=rr but i have 6 inch
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06-05-2009, 05:51 PM
#10
Well if the surface is properly prepared underneath then you could wax by hand or finish with a better buffer (with random orbit and speed control) and finish it out.
Waxing a car without the proper surface preparation is just about pointless.
That's just my opinion based on all the stuff I have read.
At first I bought a buffer like that and that was my first mistake.
Waxing a car without the proper surface preparation is just about pointless.
That's just my opinion based on all the stuff I have read.
At first I bought a buffer like that and that was my first mistake.
Last edited by nf3d0149ab; 06-05-2009 at 05:55 PM.
06-05-2009, 06:32 PM
#13
Using that runs the risk of burning through your clear coat.
You need a higher quality buffer and professional grade polishes to correct the overspray.
Might be best to have a detailer correct for you since you don't have the equipment or product.
Clay bar will do nothing for you in this scenario.
06-05-2009, 06:54 PM
#20
A little info. on clay technique.
From...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...90&postcount=5
Questions about Clay
What is this clay stuff I keep hearing about?
Over time, particles can embed themselves in the porous surface of your car paint. These particles are more commonly referred to as environmental fallout and can include sulfur, metal filings, and pollen, dust and soot. Since these particles are embedded in the paint, a mere washing will not remove them. However, a product such as clay or paint prep will be able to. Clay works by rolling over the paint with a lubricant and literally sticking to the particle and pulling it out. Paint preps work by dissolving it out so that it can be removed with cloth.
How will I know if I need to clay my car?
Use a plastic food service glove (clear cellophane type) or if you can't find one you can use clear saran-wrap. Put the glove on, or wrap you finger in 1 layer of saran wrap. If the paint feels gritty to the touch after a washing, then it's time to clay.
How do I clay my car?
Think of claying the car like shaving. The clay bar is your razor, the embedded particles are the hair, and soapy water or a quick detail spray is like your shaving cream. In fact it's almost exactly like that. Spray the lubricant (soapy water or detailing spray) on a freshly dawn-washed car, and then wipe with a little pressure, the clay bar over the paint. The lubricant is so the clay wont stick to the paint completely, and when you wipe it over the paint the clay bar will pick up embeded particles while leaving the paint intact. Wipe up any excess fluid on the paint with a micro fiber cloth. (answer to: http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...=5262#post5262)
Is using a clay bar worth the time and effort?
Use a clay bar or paint prep product. There is a lot of stuff bonded to a car's paint surface that you wont be able to see. Without removing this debris, the polymer or wax will not be able to bond, and this is crucial for the first coat of protectant. I recommend claying/prepping at least twice a year, or as needed.
Should there be any sticking?
If the clay bar is sticking to the paint at all, or it feels like it's catching on somethng, then you need more lubricant. Spray more (either soapy water or detail spray) and try again, it shouldn't stick any more.
ssm_tsx also suggests spraying some of the lubricant on your fingers to keep the clay from sticking to you.
Do clay bars scratch the paint?
It is possible to scratch the paint if you do not use the clay bar properly. You must fold or knead the clay a bit as you use it so that you get a fresh and unused piece of clay. The best way to do it is to use a knife or piece of string and slice away a thin layer of the clay as it gets too dirty.
Will claying the car remove rust and 4-way protection offered by Acura?
No, it will leave the protection intact as it's applied during the paint process.
What is this clay stuff I keep hearing about?
Over time, particles can embed themselves in the porous surface of your car paint. These particles are more commonly referred to as environmental fallout and can include sulfur, metal filings, and pollen, dust and soot. Since these particles are embedded in the paint, a mere washing will not remove them. However, a product such as clay or paint prep will be able to. Clay works by rolling over the paint with a lubricant and literally sticking to the particle and pulling it out. Paint preps work by dissolving it out so that it can be removed with cloth.
How will I know if I need to clay my car?
Use a plastic food service glove (clear cellophane type) or if you can't find one you can use clear saran-wrap. Put the glove on, or wrap you finger in 1 layer of saran wrap. If the paint feels gritty to the touch after a washing, then it's time to clay.
How do I clay my car?
Think of claying the car like shaving. The clay bar is your razor, the embedded particles are the hair, and soapy water or a quick detail spray is like your shaving cream. In fact it's almost exactly like that. Spray the lubricant (soapy water or detailing spray) on a freshly dawn-washed car, and then wipe with a little pressure, the clay bar over the paint. The lubricant is so the clay wont stick to the paint completely, and when you wipe it over the paint the clay bar will pick up embeded particles while leaving the paint intact. Wipe up any excess fluid on the paint with a micro fiber cloth. (answer to: http://www.acura-tsx.com/forums/show...=5262#post5262)
Is using a clay bar worth the time and effort?
Use a clay bar or paint prep product. There is a lot of stuff bonded to a car's paint surface that you wont be able to see. Without removing this debris, the polymer or wax will not be able to bond, and this is crucial for the first coat of protectant. I recommend claying/prepping at least twice a year, or as needed.
Should there be any sticking?
If the clay bar is sticking to the paint at all, or it feels like it's catching on somethng, then you need more lubricant. Spray more (either soapy water or detail spray) and try again, it shouldn't stick any more.
ssm_tsx also suggests spraying some of the lubricant on your fingers to keep the clay from sticking to you.
Do clay bars scratch the paint?
It is possible to scratch the paint if you do not use the clay bar properly. You must fold or knead the clay a bit as you use it so that you get a fresh and unused piece of clay. The best way to do it is to use a knife or piece of string and slice away a thin layer of the clay as it gets too dirty.
Will claying the car remove rust and 4-way protection offered by Acura?
No, it will leave the protection intact as it's applied during the paint process.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showpos...90&postcount=5
06-06-2009, 12:08 AM
#21
The Detailer
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its kind of on the line as this one
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0723000P?mv=rr but i have 6 inch
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0723000P?mv=rr but i have 6 inch
It's either using the PC and a zero cut (red) Erasure pad or just a yellow foam applicator that you can purchase OTC.
Well if the surface is properly prepared underneath then you could wax by hand or finish with a better buffer (with random orbit and speed control) and finish it out.
Waxing a car without the proper surface preparation is just about pointless.
That's just my opinion based on all the stuff I have read.
At first I bought a buffer like that and that was my first mistake.
Waxing a car without the proper surface preparation is just about pointless.
That's just my opinion based on all the stuff I have read.
At first I bought a buffer like that and that was my first mistake.
That buffer isn't capable of paint correction.
Using that runs the risk of burning through your clear coat.
You need a higher quality buffer and professional grade polishes to correct the overspray.
Might be best to have a detailer correct for you since you don't have the equipment or product.
Clay bar will do nothing for you in this scenario.
Using that runs the risk of burning through your clear coat.
You need a higher quality buffer and professional grade polishes to correct the overspray.
Might be best to have a detailer correct for you since you don't have the equipment or product.
Clay bar will do nothing for you in this scenario.
You are right though Noah, it is what it sounds like. However, clay is perfectly capable of taking care of it but it's not 100%.
06-06-2009, 09:30 AM
#23
Senior Moderator
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
Regional Coordinator
(Mid-Atlantic)
iTrader: (6)
I just clayed for the first time a few weeks ago, and I am now a believer, def go for the clay!
06-06-2009, 09:45 AM
#25
Former Sponsor
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