sr1sws

Does anyone know what the approximate "grit equivalent" (e.g. 2000 grit, 2500 grit) is of common rubbing compound?

Same question, but for polishing compound?

Thanks!
Steve

exceldetail

Rubbing compound and polishing compound are generally one in the same. Old terms, old products.....
I would not care to even guess a relationship between the two products (sandpaper vs. polishes).
Compounds are of greater abrasive qualities then a polish. Consider the compounds your "workhorse paper", and the polish as your "finish paper". Of course (to make things more complicated) workhorse paper comes in varying "grits" and finishing paper comes in much "finer grits"......lol

TOGWT

Scratch / Grit Abrasive Comparison:

1.Surface
Imperfection

2.Grit Abrasives
Equivalent

3.Polish
Type

4.Pad Selection
Use / Colour

1. Very Fine Scratch
2. 2000 Grit Abrasive<
3. Fine Polish
4.Polish / Waxing Pad - White


1. Light Oxidation
2. >2000 Grit Abrasive
3. Machine Polish 1 or 2
4. Polish / Waxing Pad - White or Light Cutting Pad - Orange

1. Medium Scratches / Medium Oxidation / Water Spots
2. 1500 Grit Abrasive
3. Machine Polish 2
4.Polishing / Light Cutting Pad - Orange


1.Deep Scratches / Heavy Oxidation / Orange Peel / Acid Rain Etching
2. 1200 Grit Abrasive
3. Machine Polish 3 or Compound
4. Polish / Cutting Pad - Yellow

1. Deep Scratches / Heavy Oxidation / Acid Rain Damage.
2. >1000 Grit Abrasive
3. Heavy Cut Compound
4. Levelling Pad - Wool

Pad colours are LC and are for reference only


See also article - http://detailingwiki.com/index.php5?..._Correction%29

exceldetail

Jon, this just brings up additional questions? Such as, what is a machine polish 1, 2 and 3?
The lower the grit the rougher the sandpaper and conversely, the higher the grit number the smoother the sandpaper. The numbers equate to particles per sq. in.
Polishing product directions, are usually referred to as "able to remove" a certain (number) 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500" scratches. Unfortunately, when confronted with polishing, the user is not informed of the (amount) type of scratches. Its left up to the users discretion and experience to determine what the appropriate product is. Thats why when just starting out, its always recommended to start with the most gentle of products until you have found which is most suitable through "trial and error". After you have used as many products as some of us have, you will be able to immediately determine which is appropriate without too much delay.

sr1sws

Thanks for the info.

Basis for my question is I'm working on patching some paint nicks left by the previous owner. I sanded down the touch up paint with 1500 and then polished those scratches out - with effort - with Turtle Wax polishing compound (white). When I catch a reflection just right, I can see some remaining scratches. I'd rather work smart, than hard, so I was thinking I should have used rubbing compound to remove the 1500 scratches (or use 2000 grit) and then the polishing compound. I'm doing this by hand, so I don't think I run too much risk of cutting through the clearcoat.

I'm going to give the rubbing compound a try, followed by polishing compound. Final will be Duragloss 105.

Steve

TOGWT

Polish Abrasive Abilities:
The abrasion or cutting ability of a polish on a 0-10 scale (least abrasive to most, a rating of 0 would constitute a functionally nonabrasive material (i.e. Diatomaceous earth ) a 10 rating would be a 800 grit abrasive

1.Polish (compound) levels heavy defects. A compound polish removes severe paint flaws and wet sanding marks with suspended abrasives in a mix of oils/solvents/water, which also provides the pad with a lubricant to work it across the paint surface. This will leave behind surface marring or haze. 8/10

2.Polish I- levels moderate to heavy defects. This polish is again a mixture of abrasives and oils/solvents/water which also provides the pad with a lubricant to work it across the paint surface. This will remove the surface marring or hazed/swirled paint surface back to basically full depth of clarity and shine. 7/10

3.Polish II- levels light to moderate defects 6/10

4.Polish III- levels light defects and removes hazing 5/10

5.Polish VI (Fine)- finishing has minor corrective ability and burnishes paint to high gloss 3/10

6.Glaze - minor abrasives usually with oils to fill and add warmth/depth 2/10

What is grit?

When talking about sandpaper "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of sandpaper. The lower the grit the rougher the sandpaper and conversely, the higher the grit number the smoother the sandpaper. This make sense if you imagine how small the particles on an 1000-grit sandpaper would need to be to fit into a 1 - inch square. Sandpaper is referred to by the size of its grit (i.e. 1500-grit sandpaper).

Scratches are identified by the equivelant marks that would be made by sandpaper grit

Going through the grits - What does this mean?” no it’s not a reference to eating breakfast in Georgia!

It’s a very similar idea to ‘Least aggressive first’ it refers to the process of using different grit finishing papers of progressively finer grit or foam pads with progressively denser foam to get a smooth finish. By going through the grits each progressive piece of grit finishing paper or foam pad removes the scratches from that previously used.

Always start with the least abrasive combination , i.e. a machine polish #2 and the least aggressive foam pad. If that combination doesn't remove the imperfections, using the same machine polish #2 and change to a more aggressive foam pad, if the surface imperfections remain, then step-up the abrasive to a polish #3 and use the least next level (abrasive) foam.

exceldetail

Great thread!

mrxant

great info!

dcleas

Hey guys I am a newbie when it comes to rubbing things out. I debadge'd my car last night and was unable to successfully rub out what was left on my trunk. I used rubbing compound by hand. Here be some pictures of whats left. Any suggestions on how to fix this? Thanks in advance.